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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sister found out that I have a cai and tunner on the way and she has challenged me to a drag race. She has a 2002 BMW M3 both cars are only about 100lbs difference in weight. Mustangs heavier.Her car is rated at 333HP and 262 ft lbs of torque stock. Mine with cai/tunner about 330HP and 340 foot lbs of torque. I know this numbers are not DYNO RWHP numbers but ehh suggestions of HP/torque per car. I think we both have automatics. So guys(gals) what do you think? :scratchchin
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh this thread should have been on the talk not tech link sorry.
 

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Mustang should still win. Then you can have that sibling lord-it-over-her-for-rest-of-her-life too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I keep reminding her that I still have about $10000 more in mods to spend to equal what hers cost!:evillol:
 

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Mustang should win. Sisters... ugh... always trying to get the best of us...
 

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lol your not making no 330whp. maybe 270whp if your lucky the stock 300hp rating is at the crank... hate to say i personally think the BMW will win..
 

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You should take her in a drag from a dead start but watch out on the highway. That M3 is designed for autobahns, if you both start at 70mph she will win. HaHa I love telling my euro buddies they just got spanked by a car that cost 1\2 what they paid. Even worse they have no idea about my ZEX kit. Best $600 I ever spent, just flip the switch and fly.
 

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You'd better be damn sure you know to out drive her...those M3s are wicked...hell, cheat and get some nos just to be sure.

BTW, her tranny should be mated to a SMG (sequential Manual Gearbox) on the Ms, five or six speed manual-auto mix, I believe.

I avoid pricey German cars as a rule, especially ones w/ M or AMG on the back. You really need a S/C or turbo with those beasts

I'd tread lightly...I'd hate to see you lose to your sis...
 

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Yeah, I was talking a bit of junk after I spanked my buddy's 335i, but that was on a 1/8th mile, he was babying it and we were both on street tires. I think he would have gotten me in the 1/4 personally. I'm trying to get him back down there since my new mods, but he is a bit of a chicken.

Beware of the "fluffmobiles". They have a lot of fluff on the inside, but many of them are still making some good power; good enough that you should respect them.
 

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Don't let that race make it into the top end (i.e. over a mile). If her car is not governed, it "should" have a higher top speed than yours. If it is governed, as in your sister didn't have it removed, it should still top out at 155.
 

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You will beat the M3 in the 1/4 with your intake (buy a half a car length) and a 93 race tune. After the quarter he will start pulling away slowly. I know this because I raced my buddy's 2002 M3 with my Stang. All I have performance wise is the CNL CAI with 93 race tune. His car was all stock. We raced 3x to make sure every time was the same. Those cars top end are awesome. They have just the right gearing to keep going and going. With our stangs we are geared lower for quicker acceleration (the fastest cars under $32K). Its still sweet that we can beat M3's that cost upwards of $70k off the line. I love it.
 

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Ceteris paribus, you can calculate the time that it takes your and your sister's respective vehicles to cover any particular distance based on the cumulative differences in your relative rates of acceleration over the time/distance interval involved.

This rate of acceleration at any particular moment is primarily a function of the amount of torque that is applied to the particular mass (i.e., weight) involved over the particular time/distance being "measured". However, the rate of acceleration is also substantially affected by the relative differences in "gearing" involved. For example, it's MUCH easier to start a bicycle from a dead stop in a lower gear than it is to start that same bicycle from a dead stop in a much higher gear even if substantially more HP/torque are applied. This will not be true IF and ONLY if the amount of HP/torque (read "force") that is applied to that higher geared bicycle sufficiently exceeds that being applied to the lower geared bicycle that the higher geared bicycle's rate of acceleration exceeds that of its "competitor".

Stated somewhat differently, regardless of any weight differential that may exist initially, there is a statistically valid and reliable basis that you will prevail in your prospective sibling rivalry-based event (i.e., kick your sister's M3 driving butt in the quarter mile) if the cumulative rates of acceleration of your vehicle exceed that of your sister's vehicle over the distance involved. Again, this will be determined in part by the sheer amount of "force" (determined by the HP/torque measured AT the rear wheels) that can be applied as a function of time. however, bear in mind that the amount of HP/torque (read "force") that is actually being applied at any particular moment in time (and, more importantly, CUMULATIVELY for the time period/distance involved) for the ultimate outcome of your event (i.e., the rate of acceleration over time) is very subtantially impacted by the relative differences in the gearing used by you and your sister in your respective vehicles over the time interval(s)/distance involved.

Put a little more simply, if you or your sister don't maximize your available "force" at each time increment/distance through a judicious useage of your gears/RPMs for that gear then you will lose even if one or the other of you otherwise had a competitive advantage initially (either because of differences in the weight/"instant" force available gearing to apply that force in your respective vehicles).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol your not making no 330whp. maybe 270whp if your lucky the stock 300hp rating is at the crank... hate to say i personally think the BMW will win..
That is exactually why I wrote in the very first post....."Her car is rated at 333HP and 262 ft lbs of torque stock. Mine with cai/tunner about 330HP and 340 foot lbs of torque. I know this numbers are not DYNO RWHP numbers but ehh suggestions of HP/torque per car." So as to avoid misunderstandings. ;)
 

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You should be able to beat her. she can't hide the fact that she drives like a girl. JK
Mustang wins not by much though.
 

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With all due respect to everyone who has chimed in on this matter, unless the above questions/issues (and others) are addressed in a concrete manner (i.e., with hard DATA) there is nothing other than opinion/specualtion that can be offered here as to the result.


PLENTY of "faster" cars get zapped when they "shouldn't". Let your car do your talking, not your mouth: run the race, see what happens - that's the only way to get an answer and get whatever "bragging rights" you may be looking for.
 

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I think you should win against the M3. Now on the other hand, there was a M6 sitting outside the airport yesterday. That beast has got some serious muscle BMW North America
 

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I'm sure that you're already aware of the following tips which can help to put your car into the winner's circle. If not, then FWIW:

(1) Your car will become a different animal after installing the CAI and tune, and you may need to modify your launch technique to prevent bogging, spinning, wheel hop, etc.

(2) Reload the tune right before racing. This will wipe out any conservative driving parameters from the ECM's memory, and will help to maximize your car's power output.

(3) Do not allow your car's engine to heat soak excessively, i.e., do not idle the engine for a long period of time before racing. This will cause the IAT(inlet air temperature) to become very hot, which it turn will cause the ECM to pull timing to prevent detonation, and ultimately will reduce your engine's power output. If possible, start the race ASAP after arriving at the race site.
If you stop to chat beforehand, then turn your engine off and pop the hood to allow the underhood heat to escape.

Every edge counts, no matter how minor it appears.
Good luck.
 

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Speaking of IAT-related issues, Steeda sells a "pigtail" relocation harness you can install so that you get a more accurate read on the actual IAT rather than the somewhat removed IAT sensed in the OEM position.
 
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