[AM18195]

I have a 90 mustang convertible with the 6 speakers I replaced the front tweeters with speakers and have new speakers in the door and out back. I also have a new head unit (Pioneer mvh 8200bt) now heres the fun part the previous owner did a wiring job into some kind of wire organizers and used ALL THE SAME COLOR WIRE so it was rather annoying hooking the radio up but its in and works good. Ok now here is the part I need help on crutchfield sends a harness to plug into the stock to bypass the stock amp and use the amp in the head unit but I dont have a stock harness... just wires of the same color...................... The only thing wrong with the radio is their is like no bass whatsoever so i think that the amp is not being used currently so how could I get that to work and check to make sure the stock isnt. I spent alot of money on speakers and the head unit but am not getting the full effect of it so it sucks if anyone could help it would be appreciated

 

[Black87FoxGT]

Need more info... You had premium sound system in our car... Then changed deck but still have factory amp in car? So you have six speakers? And a crutchfield amp? And conversion harness but your factory wires are already cut? I can help but need more info..

 

[lcurle]

If you have a factory amp, the sad news is you can't get it back to working order unless you know how to solder RCA shielded connections. Amplifiers require a low level input. Time to start running wires to all the speakers

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[AM18195]

Ok sorry for the lack of info I have the premium sound system yes. I am not sure If i have the factory amp the car had an aftermarket stereo in it previously also but I am not sure if I accidently hooked the radio upto the amp... My radio has a built in amplifier in it and I want to use that so should I just not hook up the amp wire at all and it will use the radios amp?? Previous owner rewired the speakers but all the wires are the same color for everything. All the speakers work but just no bass If you can help it would be appreciated

 

[lcurle]

No bass....check the speaker for bass blockers. If you have a 9v batter laying around you can touch the speaker wires to the + and - on the battery and listen for a popping sound. This wont hurt the speakers and will let you know which wires go to what speakers.

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[AM18195]

they do not have a bass blocker I just checked online... What I really need to know is how to activate my radios amplifier to all speakers It is a Pioneer MVH P8200BT one wire coming from the radio says "connect to the system control terminal of the power amp" That may be connected but im not sure so if it is connected would leaving it disconnected do anything? The car is getting motor work done to it so its in my driveway but apart so i can test it but it is a pain I may try it this week but I would like to know for sure if it will do anything

 

[lcurle]

What color is the wire

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[lcurle]

Bass blockers are aftermarket add-on

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[AM18195]

blue/white Thanks for your help btw

 

[lcurle]

That is a remote wire for an external amplifier, not needed if your running off the head unit

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[AM18195]

If I accidently connected that would it make the head units amp not be on?

 

[lcurle]

No, make sure the settings are correctly on the head unit as far as the parametric equalizer goes

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[AM18195]

gaahh I thought that would be it i will have to look

 

[AM18195]

should I try to auto-equalize the radio?

 

[lcurle]

The blue/wht wire is an output wire that triggers an amp turn on only.

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[lcurle]

should I try to auto-equalize the radio?

If your radio can do that sure

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[Finally A 5.0]

Best course of action:

Buy 4 channel amp (decent ones run about $150)
Rewire all speakers
parts list
100ft speaker wire
20ft 8ga power wire
RCA splitter x 2
4ft ground
15ft rca wire amp turn on (the blue/white wire)


1. Dash speakers into fronts of radio
2. Front door speakers into new amp
3. Rear speakers into new amp

set rears around 5 kHz
fronts about 10 kHz
and dash about 20 kHz
(play with these settings, but should get you a decent start)

This will sound better than trying to make 20+year old amps work with new speakers and head unit. Wiring and amp should set you back around $200 total and about 2 hours of work.
You won't get any REAL bass unless you run a sub, instead of a 4 channel amp, get a 5 channel, a 10" sub in ported box, and one more set of RCAs. While a single 10" won't rattle off your rear view mirror, it will definitely add that low end punch you are looking for.
(your rears set at 5 kHz, a sub will get you down to 28 Hz)

Pioneer GM-6500F 4-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

EFX 8-gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit Power and signal connections for your new amp at Crutchfield.com

Stinger PRO Series 16-gauge Speaker Wire (Priced per foot) Black jacket at Crutchfield.com

Polk Audio db1040 db Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com

Rockford Fosgate Prime R600-5 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

 

[lcurle]

dont get rca splitters, that a cheap way out and you either loose your fade or balance.

 

[Finally A 5.0]

No, use the splitters. Since you are running 6 speakers (or 7 if you get the sub) you don't want the dash speakers and front speakers on front fade, since one is amped and one is not. If he was only running 4 speakers, then obviously run dual RCAs to amp so that you can fade and balance speakers from deck to amp.

 

[lcurle]

That makes no sense.