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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello together,
i have a little problem to jack my GT with automatic transmission on 4 wheels properly because i have to do some underwork. Maybe someone here can tell me his experience in this.
I want to put my GT on 4 Ramps (Every Ramp is for 2 tons) To drive on the ramp in the front is not possible, because rubber under it dont work. The Ground in my garage is to slippery. I cant fix them also in another way. (No Screws or blocking possible) I dont want to use 4 jack stands.
So this is not a real problem, because i use the handbrake an P Position for my rear Wheels and lift the front with a hydraulic trolley jack in the middle short before the Oil Pan and then i put the ramps easily under the wheels.
Now the question: How can i easily put the rear wheels also on ramps without the risk that when i move the car up, the front wheels start moving and the hole car runs from the ramps.
This is naturally also a big problem when i want to bring the car away from the rear ramps, because the front wheels have no brakes. (When the car would stand on them)
When i move the car a little bit higher to remove the rear ramps and go down slowly with my two hydraulic trolley jacks, the car will roll off the front ramps because of the angle and drift.
Because its not possible to lock the wheels in front with a taper key i have the idea to fix the front wheels with a strong belt strap in running direction on the ramps. So the wheel cant roll when i go down in the rear, thats my idea.
Is this possible? Or is here anyone with a better idea?

Thanks very much for your answers! I hope the thread is to understand with my bad english! And please no comments like "go to a work shop, dealer or something like that" I would not do this, because i love my stang and here are a lot of work shops with unqualified mechanics....;)

Thank you very much for your answers.

Greetings, Mario
 

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A couple of ideas:

1. The ramps should have a stop at the end that is designed to stop the car from rolling off the front of the ramp. Could you also make a bolt-on wheel stop that you could put on the back of the ramp, behind the wheel, after you first put it on the ramps? The wheel stop on each side may be enough to stop the wheel from rolling in either direction.

2. Trailers for car carriers usually have a bolt-on webbing that is designed to go around the front wheel and hold the car on the trolley. You may be able to buy one of these webbing sets to attach the wheel to the ramps in front.

Most of the ramps I've seen here are fairly light weight. I would still be a little concerned about having the ramp move as you lift the car, even if the wheel is firmly attached. Maybe you could attach both ramps to a single large piece of wood or steel that goes all the way across, so the ramps work as a single assembly. This should stabilize them much more than each ramp being able to move independently.

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A couple of ideas:

1. The ramps should have a stop at the end that is designed to stop the car from rolling off the front of the ramp. Could you also make a bolt-on wheel stop that you could put on the back of the ramp, behind the wheel, after you first put it on the ramps? The wheel stop on each side may be enough to stop the wheel from rolling in either direction.

2. Trailers for car carriers usually have a bolt-on webbing that is designed to go around the front wheel and hold the car on the trolley. You may be able to buy one of these webbing sets to attach the wheel to the ramps in front.

Most of the ramps I've seen here are fairly light weight. I would still be a little concerned about having the ramp move as you lift the car, even if the wheel is firmly attached. Maybe you could attach both ramps to a single large piece of wood or steel that goes all the way across, so the ramps work as a single assembly. This should stabilize them much more than each ramp being able to move independently.

Bruce
Hello Bruce,
thanks for your answer! The ramps i have are equipped with a bracket (Stop) in front (2" high"), so that it is not so easy to drive over it, but they dont have any other tool to prevent the wheel from rolling back. Thats why i had the idea with the strong belt around the tire going through the bars on the ramp.
I have also another idea:
If i want to move the car down, i could do this:
Before lowering i would put the hydraulic trolley jack under the middle front position behind the oil pan and move the front up, so that i can turn the ramps 180°. Then i lower the car again on the ramps. Then i go to the rear and start lowering.
Im not sure, if the bracket on the front ramp is high enough to prevent it from jumping over it.
The question is then, if the car is lowered, that it rolls in the other direction and the ramp ruins my car.
The best way in my opinion is to fix the wheels on the front ramps, so that they cant move in any direction.
I would also put some more jack stands under the car when working for safety.
Everything a little bit tricky, when doing it safe!
 

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Mario - the safest option would be to use jack stands, under all 4 jack points. I would use no less than 3 ton stands as well.
If you really want to use ramps, then get the fronts up on the jack stands, and use the ramps at the rear wheels only (just use 2 ramps, not 4). Nothing else is worth getting crushed. Tying belts around the wheels is a bad idea I think.
Also, once the car is up, use large wood blocks (I use RR ties cut to size and 2x4's as additional shims) and slide them under the suspension pivot points under the car or some other suitably strong place - this is a good fail safe idea. Also, never put the jack stands beyond their mid-range height; going to high is unsafe with them. Others may disagree, but you only have to make one mistake to be gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mario - the safest option would be to use jack stands, under all 4 jack points. I would use no less than 3 ton stands as well.
If you really want to use ramps, then get the fronts up on the jack stands, and use the ramps at the rear wheels only (just use 2 ramps, not 4). Nothing else is worth getting crushed. Tying belts around the wheels is a bad idea I think.
Also, once the car is up, use large wood blocks (I use RR ties cut to size and 2x4's as additional shims) and slide them under the suspension pivot points under the car or some other suitably strong place - this is a good fail safe idea. Also, never put the jack stands beyond their mid-range height; going to high is unsafe with them. Others may disagree, but you only have to make one mistake to be gone.
Hello linderpat,
thanks for your informations! In which order would you lower the car, when the rear tyres are on ramps? Is it not also a risk, when i lower the car in the rear, that the front stands overturn?
Yes, this with the mid range height is plausible from the static. With the wood is also a good idea. Thats why i want to use the ramps because they can wear 4 tons and there height is one feed. The only problem is to move the car on and off the ramps safely. When the Car is on them, they are very stable and i can also put some additional jacks under other points. Its only tricky tro prevent the "rolling" effect. Thats why i thought this with the belts. Why do you think, that its a bad idea? I have strong tension belts (2" wide). I hope that i dont go on your nerves...

Greetings, Mario
 

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I would never use jackstands to support the entire weight of the car.
Interesting. As a very active forum member on several other boards for many years, where this topic is discussed endlessly, and having done my own wrenching to boot on the stangs, porches and other cars I have owned, this is the very first time I have ever heard this. What is the basis for this claim?
 

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.... In which order would you lower the car, when the rear tyres are on ramps? Is it not also a risk, when i lower the car in the rear, that the front stands overturn?...
First, when raising the car, do it in stages with the jack stands. Always raise first to the lowest setting. Once it's there, check that everything is stable, then raise to desired height one stand at a time, little by little, until you get 1/3 to 1/2 of the stand extended. Lowering is the reverse process; there should be no rolling off the stands with this procedure.
I start with the rears first - lift from a good center point (not the rear end casing), then insert stands at rear jack points. Then move to the front and repeat. I have not used ramps before, so someone correct me on this, but it seems to me that if you are using the ramps on the rears, you should be able to just roll up onto them, chalk the tires, put on the ebrake, then lift front as described above and put it onto stands at the correct front jack points.
 

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I would never use jackstands to support the entire weight of the car.
Curious as to why also? Not that my big arse really fits under a car on jackstands very well, but have often done it. What's your rationale?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First, when raising the car, do it in stages with the jack stands. Always raise first to the lowest setting. Once it's there, check that everything is stable, then raise to desired height one stand at a time, little by little, until you get 1/3 to 1/2 of the stand extended. Lowering is the reverse process; there should be no rolling off the stands with this procedure.
I start with the rears first - lift from a good center point (not the rear end casing), then insert stands at rear jack points. Then move to the front and repeat. I have not used ramps before, so someone correct me on this, but it seems to me that if you are using the ramps on the rears, you should be able to just roll up onto them, chalk the tires, put on the ebrake, then lift front as described above and put it onto stands at the correct front jack points.
Hello,
thanks for your idea. So after thinking of all the threads i think the best (safest) solution for me using 4 ramps is the following:

UP
1. I lift the car in front and put it on stable jack stands, so that the wheel are a little bit from the ground. (Handbrake on and P Position)
2. Then lift the rear with two hydraulik trolley jack stands on the Mustang specified points and move the ramps under the rear wheels. Lower it, so that it stands in the rear on the ramps. (Handbrake an P Blocking is working)
3. I lift the car in front so that i can also move the ramps under the wheels and lower it on them.
DOWN
1. I lift the car in front so that i can remove the ramps. I put stable jack stands under the specified points and lower the car. So the car stands in front on the jack stands.
2. I lift the car in the rear so that i can remove the ramps and then i slowly lower it to the ground. (Handbrake and P Blocking is working)
3. I lift the car in front, remove the jack stands and lower it on the ground.

Everybody ok with this solution, or do i forget something?

Greetings, Mario
 

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.... To drive on the ramp in the front is not possible, because rubber under it dont work. The Ground in my garage is to slippery....
Mario,

I know you mentioned this wasn't your immediate concern but, for the future, I have a cheap solution. The rubber feet on the ramps would not hold on my smooth concrete floor either. I got a cheap house door mat with rubber backing on the bottom. I cut it in half. Now with a half of the mat under each ramp, I have no more sliding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mario,

I know you mentioned this wasn't your immediate concern but, for the future, I have a cheap solution. The rubber feet on the ramps would not hold on my smooth concrete floor either. I got a cheap house door mat with rubber backing on the bottom. I cut it in half. Now with a half of the mat under each ramp, I have no more sliding.
Hi,
yes i know this stuff. Here is also some "under" material for carpets available. This could also work, but like you said, that is not the problem.
But thanks for your information :bigthumbsup

Greetings, Mario
 

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If you are using properly rated jack stands placed on the appropriate places underneath the car, supporting the entire car with 4 stands is entirely safe. Body shops do it all the time.
 
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