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Discussion Starter #1
So today i went to raceway park in NJ and had a relatively good day overall.. aside from my 2nd pass. I launched around 3000-3500 and after the launch the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and i didnt notice until it was time to shift :). on the 3rd pass i decided to take it easy on the clutch

2011 GT 6M
Kooks Longtubes / Catted X
SLP muffler delete
AirRaid CAI
JDM SCT tune
stock 3.31s
433whp/404tq

all passes on the stock 19'' tires

run 1

60ft ...... 2.003
1/8th .....8.03
mph ......92.7
1/4 ........12.28
mph .......116.49

run 2

60ft 1.81!!
didnt even bother to finish run due to the clutch issue

run 3

60ft ....... 1.96
1/8th ..... 7.95
mph ......93.24
1/4 ........ 12.17
mph .......117.41


I wouldve LOVEDD at 11 second timeslip. Maybe next time!!!!

Any info on the clutch stick issue? It wasnt when i shifted or anything so it doesnt seem related to Ford's TSB clutch issue. Any ideas are welcome
 

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Nice work! I have the same mods but I have Drag radial. Get a better 60' and your there.

I'm also having tranny/shifting/clutch issues. I made a thread
 

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Nice times! The clutch issue concerns me (in general about these cars).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys. I wasnt having any shifting issues today thankfully. 6800-6900rpm shifts were going great.. just not the launch on the second pass.

quadcammer- ill have to check it out
 

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How much time between the runs? I ask because I had something similar happen today when I hot-lapped. The pedal stuck to the floor just as I finished my burnout on the second run. Pumped the pedal a few times and the run went fine. I have the revised pedal assembly btw. Thinking I'm ready for an upgraded clutch/pressure-plate.
 

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Damn your MPH is up there... Im on a Bama 93 tune and have 3.73s. My best 60 foot from my first time out was a 2.02 and had to just roll first gear with these 3.73s to get it to hook at all. time was a 12.51 @ 112 because i tried to shift into 5th instead of letting 4th pull. All of the rest of my runs were 114.5-114.8 mph staying in 4th and hitting rev limiter right after the finish line. Who did your tune? or is the taller gear helping your MPH at the end?

BTW the 5-6 other cars that cruised with us all got pulled by my car on the highway on 60-130ish rolls, all with different tunes, so i thought my Bama tune was doing well.. Thinking about letting Shaun at AED send me his tune package and see how it compares...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Radar Doc- About 1.5 - 2 hours in between runs. With our particular issue, a new clutch might help becuase it has nothing to do with the diaphram "overcentering" like the shifting issue that people experience above 6500 rpm.

Kona blue killer- My tune was done by JDM in freehold, NJ. Very reputable place. The air was great yesterday right around 60* and not much humidity.
 

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So it was dynotuned and not email/datalogged?
 

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Anyone that has a clutch sticking to the floor, or going soft at high rpm, after a burnout, etc. should look into the JHR braided clutch line. It will seriously help.

OP, you are a set of real tires away from your goal. Consider some slicks (I am starting to sound like a broken record).

Mike
 

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I have a feeling the brake fliud is boiling. I actually ended up stalling the car after a burn out cause the release point was pretty much on the floor.
 

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I have a feeling the brake fliud is boiling. I actually ended up stalling the car after a burn out cause the release point was pretty much on the floor.
It does. What you do is pump the clutch pedal 7-10 times after a burnout and it will bleed it out. The JHR line eliminates about 90% of those issues, because it has a large enough orifice to allow sufficient flow, even when hot.

Mike
 

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Anyone that has a clutch sticking to the floor, or going soft at high rpm, after a burnout, etc. should look into the JHR braided clutch line. It will seriously help.

Mike


Thanks, Mike. I'll give that a try since my clutch has no other problems at the moment.

Mike
 

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It does. What you do is pump the clutch pedal 7-10 times after a burnout and it will bleed it out. The JHR line eliminates about 90% of those issues, because it has a large enough orifice to allow sufficient flow, even when hot.

Mike
My brake fluid looks like it is 5 years old. I never owned a car that come with such crap from the factory. I will try bleeding the entire system with a different fluid first and report on the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Anyone that has a clutch sticking to the floor, or going soft at high rpm, after a burnout, etc. should look into the JHR braided clutch line. It will seriously help.

OP, you are a set of real tires away from your goal. Consider some slicks (I am starting to sound like a broken record).

Mike
I know i could get 11s with a tire.. But the goal is 11s On the stock tires, which i was able to get a 1.81 60ft with. Both 12 second passes were 2.00 and 1.96 60ft. im hoping im able to get that 1.81 once more and IF i do without the clutch sticking to the floor, im confident ill see that 11.
 

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I ordered the JHR clutch line today, and also removed the helper spring from the clutch pedal assembly.

Lethal Video on YouTube

Helper Spring Removal

I have the revised pedal assembly with the clutch pedal return spring(so I had 3 springs total on the clutch/brake pedal assembly including the helper spring). If you have an early-build 2011, you may not have the other return spring on your pedal assembly so removing the helper spring may not be a good idea. Anyway, I have a nice, firm clutch pedal now. It's nothing crazy though. Someone can always re-install the helper spring if they don't like it.

Waiting on the brown truck to deliver my new clutch line.....
 

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I know i could get 11s with a tire.. But the goal is 11s On the stock tires, which i was able to get a 1.81 60ft with. Both 12 second passes were 2.00 and 1.96 60ft. im hoping im able to get that 1.81 once more and IF i do without the clutch sticking to the floor, im confident ill see that 11.
We have the same goal. I personally would also need a mid to low 1.8 to hit it right now. Others have already don it and its damn impressive in my opinion.:yup:
 

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My brake fluid looks like it is 5 years old. I never owned a car that come with such crap from the factory. I will try bleeding the entire system with a different fluid first and report on the results.
I suspect this to be a problem also. After some back-to-back high speed runs I was experiencing some brake petal bouncing when slowing down. The problem went away after they cooled down a bit. My clutch petal is also slow to return during 7k+ RPM shifts. I thought they fixed that but I guess not.

Loosh, let me know how that fluid swap works out.

I am a little reluctant to remove the "helper" spring from the petal assembly, but will this solve the clutch issue?
 

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I suspect this to be a problem also. After some back-to-back high speed runs I was experiencing some brake petal bouncing when slowing down. The problem went away after they cooled down a bit. My clutch petal is also slow to return during 7k+ RPM shifts. I thought they fixed that but I guess not.

Loosh, let me know how that fluid swap works out.

I am a little reluctant to remove the "helper" spring from the petal assembly, but will this solve the clutch issue?
I personally will not be removing any springs. It is very clear the brake fluid is being over worked from basic high rpms runs. As for what fluid will work, i will have to hit up the road course guys that run the mustangs to see what they have tried/recommend.

Btwn the leaking brake cap which would indicate excessive pressure and my fluid looking like its 5 years old on a car that is a couple weeks old indicates there is a pretty big problem with the pressure system. I almost want to do mulitple high rpm launches and shifts and then try jamming the brakes to see if the pedal is there.

As for your brake issue, you are probably warping your rotors.
 

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I personally will not be removing any springs. It is very clear the brake fluid is being over worked from basic high rpms runs. As for what fluid will work, i will have to hit up the road course guys that run the mustangs to see what they have tried/recommend.

Btwn the leaking brake cap which would indicate excessive pressure and my fluid looking like its 5 years old on a car that is a couple weeks old indicates there is a pretty big problem with the pressure system. I almost want to do mulitple high rpm launches and shifts and then try jamming the brakes to see if the pedal is there.

As for your brake issue, you are probably warping your rotors.
Apparently DOT4 is the replacement of choice.
 
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