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My 1968 Mustang will not start.

2814 Views 4 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Kenster
I daily drive a 1968 Mustang, and have come across a problem. Around 2 weeks ago my car started to act up. When putting the key into the ignition and going to start it, nothing happens. I know my battery isn't acting up because it's new and my car has power. At first I thought it was my starter, but after messing around i attempted to start the car through the starter solenoid. With the help of my dad, I had him turn the car to the start position and I ran a screwdriver from the battery cable to the solenoid.
For a week or so this worked. After trying to start it last week that failed. I thought my ignition went out, so we replaced that. Still, nothing occurred and the car wouldn't start or attempt to turn over. We jumped the car assuming that it was dead. that wasn't an issue. We tried bypassing the starter using the screwdriver trick, you could hear the car trying to start but once you let off it dies. I just bought another solenoid along with a voltage regulator. On the 26th I'll try installing those and attempting to start again. If all else fails, I'll buy a new starter for the car. Any tips? My pops and I are at a standstill and need help! Thanks a bunch everyone!
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You could have multiple problems. There is a wiring diagram at the top of this forum which could prove helpful.

1: Getting the engine to crank, the starting circuit uses power from the battery to the ignition switch in the START position to the neutral safety switch (in the Park or N position if an automatic) to a connector on the firewall to the "S" terminal on the top of the solonoid. You could use a volt meter to measure down the line and see where the voltage is missing.

2: Power to the ignition coil, there are 2 conditions, the 1st is when cranking (the solonoid has to be engaged), the coil pos terminal gets battery power directly from the "I" terminal on the top of the solonoid, for the engine to run when the key is released from the Start position, the ignition switch contacts in the Run position connects to a pink wire (resistor wire in the wiring harness) to a connector on the firewall to the coil positive terminal (if the points are open the pos term will show battery voltage if the points are closed the pos term will show 7-9 volts), these can be checked without the engine running, you need to bump the starter so that you can see the difference when the points are open and closed.

Post your results. Good Luck.
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