[sprater]

Here is where I am wanting to welcome any suggestions on how to build up my 5.0... I'll share with you all what I have and what I'm looking for.

Performance Mods:
Cold Air Intake
3.90 Gears
O/R H-Pipe
Super 10s w/ Turndowns


Not much, I know. So ready to get started. Obviously I want the best "bang for your buck", but money is not an issue. I want to get the most out of what I put into my car, out of the stock motor - without pushing it too far.. I believe I read that 350 is near the danger zone, if not exceeding. I want to build my motor until I'm about 50 hp away from the "danger zone" for these motors. Again, I don't want to get into rebuilding the motor. So I don't know if forced induction is the way to go.. or if it'd be better staying away from forced induction with these motors.

The biggest thing I've been working on out of my car is the sound. I want that old-school exhaust sound, which I am very close to achieving. With the o/r h pipe (instead of x-pipe), the super 10's and turndowns it has a deep, mean growl. I'm sure getting it cammed would help in achieving the rest of this. If you all have any other suggestions exhaust wise- I'd be happy to hear it. But I'm sure all you muscle car enthusiasts know the ground shaking, deep sound that I'm trying to achieve, or moreso mimic.

Thanks in advance.

 

[cpembach1]

Get a mean cam and some head work done and it will sound very mean.

 

[cpembach1]

The old 5.0 is, in my opinion, one of the best sounding small block engines when built right.

 

[carnutz]

My 94 5.0

Hello I love my 94 it is very fast and I did not do to much to it (kinda). The sound is great. I have flowmasters and now have high flow cats/Hpipe. If anything it does not sound as mean with the new cats although not much difference. What good is a hot rod if the is not loud!

in the 94 the big bottleneck was the hole intake system no power over 4500 RPM when I first bought it ( it had flowmasters, unknown cam, 3.73 gears and a Tremec 3550 trans, springs, sway bar).

I replace the MAF with a C&L 76MM (Their are other good or better options now) and put in a 70MM BBK TB, and a good air filter in the fender. next I ported the upper intake. Added a AFPR set at 42 pounds as it was running lean at first. bumped up the timing to about 14 DBTD (with 94 octane). Made a huge difference I got a 13.7 at the track with my bad driving and yes I still have not reprogrammed the computer yet. It runs great I have had this setup for 8 years and put 70K on it. Very fast now. I have relay sticky 255 tires and it spins the tires if i am not careful or having fun.

Now that I can not get 94 octane gas at the pumps I am about to put some ported GT40 steal heads and a 95 cobra intake on it. Just a little more power as it is not as fast with 93 octane gas (I like really fast cars) and where I have to set the timing. I like the stock look and for my money the steal heads look good and perform just fine with some minor porting from someone who knows what they are doing. I am thinking it should be around 300HP+.

 

[carnutz]

PS

BTW the 70MM TB does not work the the stock intake if not ported. I did the porting myself with a dremel tool as it have a lot of experience building hot rods. Their are also a lot of bumps and stuff in the stock intake. Porting the intake really helped even if you want to go for a smaller 65MM TB. If you are not going to port the stock intake get a 94/95 cobra or aftermarket intake. The stock intakes suck. You can see the flow numbers that have been posted.

Also AFR makes really good heads if you want to go with aluminum heads. Just get the smaller combustion chamber if you are not going to add a supper charger to keep the compression up.:wink:

 

[5.0Sleeper]

Before my head and cam install on my 94, it was putting down 230 to the wheels so around the 300 at the crank mark you are talking about, if im understanding your goal correctly. I had full cattless exhaust, trickflow intake manifold(upper and lower), 70mm TB, larger MAF calibrated for 24lbs injectors, 24lbs injectors. Same power could probably be had with less parts but the biggest improvement for these motors are the heads. I went with AFR heads and a comp cam and saw my power go from 230 to 320 at the wheels, was a totally different car!

 

[[email protected]]

Whats the budget you are trying to stay within for the first round of mods? We don't have the 5.0 stuff on our site but we can certainly get it and still offer great deals.

 

[sprater]

I don't have a budget.. money isn't an issue. But I do want to be as cost-effective as possible. I want to put headers on it, but being that it's a "big job" I was told not to do it until it is cammed.

Unfortunately I might end up having to rebuild my motor, or do a swap. I am losing 1 quart of oil per every 1,000 miles approximately. I was told it's leaking from both front/back seals, and the oil sending unit. I am replacing the oil sending unit Friday (which is hopefully where most of the oil is going)... if that fixes it, then I'll be good to keep going. But if not.. I'm thinking a swap to a built 351.. depending about how clean of a swap it is.. any opinions if I have to go that route?... hopefully this oil sending unit is the problem though.

 

[5.0Sleeper]

Very very late reply, but 351s go into foxes easier than they do SNs and conversion parts are cheaper.