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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On Friday we installed a new, HEAVILY modified T45RS into my car. My old one was having sycnro issues in 3rd an 4th, mainly because of the way I drive. :hihi:
One of our builders, special built me a new T45RS that we sell but he used carbon gears for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse, carbon fiber sycnros and blockers, steel shift forks, brass fork pads, T56 Viper modifed shift rail and a custom short throw shifter that we make here in house that has built in shift stops both front to back and side to side. He also took the blocking rings to the lathe and shaved .015" off each one which gives it a positive engagement when shifting. :scratchchin.. This one also has a 26 spline input shaft which replaces the weak 10 spline that came in them from the factory.

All I have to say is WOW....what a huge difference in the way it shifts. This tranny is an animal. :D It is too bad I don't have enough power to really put it through it's paces but what I do have, I throw at it. :hihi:

The good news is we have learned alot by building this one and will incorporate it into all of our T45RS that we sell. :bigthumbsup

On the down side....while it was on the lift, I noticed that my new tires are almost slap wore out in the front. Apparently, my camber is real far to the negative side as the inside the rib of both front tires are going bald. I did notice a slight pull to the left when driving but couldn't decide whether it was the natural slope of the road or my car. :so Needless to say...my car is getting a front end alignment today and as long as they can reverse the camber so the tires don't ride on the inside rib anymore, I should be ok. :scratchchin

I also noticed the middle rib of my rear tires are wearing thin too. The shop that I bought the tires from and had them mount them over filled them. I even paid $6 per tire to have them use nitrogen. :so That one I will take the blame for as I never went behind them to check the pressure. Visually, they looked perfect. They are low profile ( 275-40-17) and definitely didn't look low. For $159 per tire, I would've thought I got better service than that.





Richard
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Richard, make sure they check out the condition of your rack and bushings when they do the alignment. Could be some worn parts there...
 

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Hey Richard; Also make sure you have, new tires for the front before having it aligned. It would just hate to waste, an alignment on bald tires, Mike. SCT Tuner.:bigthumbsup Bye the way, what do you get for the tranny, and how much power will it handle? Also is there, a core charge for the tranny, Mike? P.S. Richard, you can PM me the answer, to the question about the tranny. Thanks, Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, they called and told me the drivers side inner tie rod end was wonr and the passenger side front wheel bearing was shot. Thise plus the alignment was around $350. I told them to wheel the car back out front to the parking lot and I would be by later to pick it up. :so

I called and got a inner toe rod end and a front hub assembly (which houses the wheel bearing) for $80 :hihi:.

Guess you all know what I'll be doing tonight after I get home from work. :scratchchin





Richard
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Richard; Also make sure you have, new tires for the front before having it aligned. It would just hate to waste, an alignment on bald tires, Mike. SCT Tuner.:bigthumbsup Bye the way, what do you get for the tranny, and how much power will it handle? Also is there, a core charge for the tranny, Mike? P.S. Richard, you can PM me the answer, to the question about the tranny. Thanks, Mike.

Pm being sent in a minute... :bigthumbsup





Richard
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$80 for a Hub is a GOOD price, sounds like a Killer T-45 you got there! And I'd throw some Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates on before the aligment, your not gonna be able to slam your caster all the way to the firewall for the best steering feel and response as well as get 1 degree of negative camber, it just isn't possible with the stock crappy hardware!
Hey Tripleblack thanks for those aligment numbers a few months ago, DAMM what a difference bro!! We managed 4.9 Positve Caster,1 degree Neg camber with factory toe.
It's a Totally different car, this is one of the first upgrades that every Stang owner should do! :bigthumbsup
 

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Handling

$80 for a Hub is a GOOD price, sounds like a Killer T-45 you got there! And I'd throw some Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates on before the aligment, your not gonna be able to slam your caster all the way to the firewall for the best steering feel and response as well as get 1 degree of negative camber, it just isn't possible with the stock crappy hardware!
Hey Tripleblack thanks for those aligment numbers a few months ago, DAMM what a difference bro!! We managed 4.9 Positve Caster,1 degree Neg camber with factory toe.
It's a Totally different car, this is one of the first upgrades that every Stang owner should do! :bigthumbsup
Hey, glad it helped, Brutal Metal. Handling is my "thing". Lots of folks put the CC plates on their cars, but don't know how to set them up. Its one of those "Mustang specific" situations too - most alignment shops just put the car back to factory spec and leave it there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
$80 for a Hub is a GOOD price, sounds like a Killer T-45 you got there! And I'd throw some Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates on before the aligment, your not gonna be able to slam your caster all the way to the firewall for the best steering feel and response as well as get 1 degree of negative camber, it just isn't possible with the stock crappy hardware!
Hey Tripleblack thanks for those aligment numbers a few months ago, DAMM what a difference bro!! We managed 4.9 Positve Caster,1 degree Neg camber with factory toe.
It's a Totally different car, this is one of the first upgrades that every Stang owner should do! :bigthumbsup

Actually it was $85 for BOTH the new hub and the inner tie rod end. :bigthumbsup

The wheel bearing hub was destroyed when I got in there last night. The race on the inner bearing was was heated and cooled so many times that it was stuck on the spindle. It took a torch and quite a few hammer blows to get it off. :hihi:


Tell me more about this caster alignment that TB told you about? How do you set it and what's involved?


The T45RS "S" is awesome. When it engages in the gear, it really hits. I adjusted my clutch again so that it disengages at the top of the pedal stroke. Now when I depress the pedal, it is fully disengaged about half way down to the floor. It makes for a really quick shift.
Our new shifter has side to side shift stops (as well as the normal front to back), and I can lock out 5th gear so when I am slamming gears, there is no chance at missing 3rd. :bigthumbsup




Richard
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Sure Richard, to set Caster for maximum performance and steering feel you gonna have to replace the crappy stock alignment hardware with Caster Camber Plates. You said you were getting it done the other day? By chance do you have your computer printout of where they set your stuff to?
I bet they only got 3 and change of Positive Camber, as Triple B told me slamming those struts to the firewall makes a huge difference in every aspect of driving. Before I always felt like my power steering was a little Too Soft and the wheel spun too freely, if you have your alignment tech set your car with these numbers here your gonna really be surprised at the potential you never knew your car had as far as handling goes!
My jaw literally dropped the first hard turn cornering I tried the day my boy set it up for me, Big Thumbs UP!!:bigthumbsup

4.5-5.0 Degrees Positive Caster
1 Degree Negative Camber
.5 degree Toe-In
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sure Richard, to set Caster for maximum performance and steering feel you gonna have to replace the crappy stock alignment hardware with Caster Camber Plates. You said you were getting it done the other day? By chance do you have your computer printout of where they set your stuff to?
I bet they only got 3 and change of Positive Camber, as Triple B told me slamming those struts to the firewall makes a huge difference in every aspect of driving. Before I always felt like my power steering was a little Too Soft and the wheel spun too freely, if you have your alignment tech set your car with these numbers here your gonna really be surprised at the potential you never knew your car had as far as handling goes!
My jaw literally dropped the first hard turn cornering I tried the day my boy set it up for me, Big Thumbs UP!!:bigthumbsup

4.5-5.0 Degrees Positive Caster
1 Degree Negative Camber
.5 degree Toe-In

I have not had the car aligned yet. After I dropped it off Monday to have it done and they told me about the inner tie rod and wheel bearing, I went home Monday night and my son and I got to work and corrected those issues.
While repairing those items, I also found a few other minor issues that I need to address before getting it aligned.
The end link (I think that's what it's called...the sway bar attaches to this vertical rod and the rod is attached to the A-arm...?), those bushings on one side are dry rotted, cracked and sagging, so I am going to replace those this weekend. Suprisingly, the sway bar bushings look to be in like new condition. :scratchchin
I also, noticed I have about 1/16" of meat on the front brake pads, so a brake job is also going to be done this weekend.

I made an appointment with the alignment shop for this coming Monday. :bigthumbsup


Now correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't camber defined as the tire sitting on the outside rib (positive) or the inside rib(negative) of the tire as it sits? Your numbers that you gave me have a negative camber setting and I am just concerned as it is already sitting negative because my inside rib on the passenger side is slap wore out. Now that could've had something to do with the bad wheel bearing couldn't it? That is the same side that I had to replace the wheel bearing.

I can talk transmissions all day long....handling characteristics...not so much. :hihi:





Richard
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in fact the more caster the more stability,is only limited by the design of the vehicle itself.get camber/caster plates and make sure caster is as even as it can get done.maximum camber for a daily driven car is 1.5 degrees negative,the car needs negative camber.if you lower your ride you are going to need a bump steer kit.0.5 positive toe sounds nice,some cars can go up to 1.5 degrees positive toe.:bigthumbsup
 

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Any trouble with wear with those alignment specs? I am doing my suspension as soon as I can get some camber plates (I already have H&R springs and tokico struts/shocks waiting to go in) but money is an issue right now, so it may be a few weeks. I've been told pretty much the same specs from another source, but I just want to make sure its not going to kill the tires.
Nice job on the tranny Richard, sounds like a really stout one. How's the feel of that shifter? My pro 50's springs are worn out and I can never get them on the phone to get new ones, may just replace the whole shifter soon.
 

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To be completely accurate me and my friend Eric could only get
.9 negative camber on both sides (done with a digital dial indicator), we could get 1 degree on the drivers side but the plate would only adjust to .9 on the passenger side with the strut pushed towards the firewall so we made both that number! I can't give tire wear data yet, the aligment was only done a couple months ago, but I'll report on it later. If it concerns you set camber at .5-.7 negative!
Richard do you have lowering springs? If not you probably don't need CC plates but like I said before optimum Caster can't be achieved with stock hardware.
 

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Individual cars have their own "sweet spot", so a certain amount of leeway in the numbers must be acknowledged. Cars that have been in a wreck (particularly one involving a hard knock to the frame or unibody) may vary a good bit - and represent another reason to add CCplates with their increased adjustability.

The width of the front wheels and tires affects things as well. Wide, square shouldered and low profile tires are more sensitive to changes to all the variables, but particularly to toe and camber. Lowered suspensions can limit some adjustments as they change the geometry.

Often, maximum tire longevity and handling are compromises - with driving arena and style having a lot to do with the results as well. Again, individual cars will wear tires in individual ways, so keeping track of what happens once a baseline setting is achieved and any damaged/worn parts are replaced is a good idea.

Road tracks with their tight turns and extreme braking and handling demands will often benefit from more negative camber - whereas a good compromise for tire life and daily driving might be something less on your particular car.

Tracks tend to have SOME curves going both ways (except for NASCAR, of course, or drag strips), but will often have a majority of left or right turns - or a majority of key hairpin turns going in a certain direction - that will influence the alignment strategy for THAT track. A camber setup to allow the driver to really cut sharp in certain conditions will often be able to shave significant time - or at least give them an edge in the wars in those turns.
 

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NICE TB! Yeah my alignment guru friend Eric says the same thing, when a car has lowering springs getting large negative camber numbers like 1.5+ is difficult!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
.....Richard do you have lowering springs? If not you probably don't need CC plates but like I said before optimum Caster can't be achieved with stock hardware.


I do have lowering springs on it. Like Racin366 said, I am worried about the tire wear with the numbers that have been posted so far. Granted, I don't know much about handling or how to set it, I just know that I must be at negative camber right now as my inside rib on my tire is as bald as head. :hihi:
The funny thing is it's only bad on the passenger side tire, which coincidentally, is the same side the wheel bearing was bad and I just replaced. :scratchchin



Racin366......
The shifter on my transmission is really cool. It is our own, in house design and is basically a modified version of our shifter we use and sell on our TKO transmission kits. :bigthumbsup
The throw is EXTREMELY short, shorter than the Pro - 5.0 shifter I use to run on the TKO in my old fox body, plus it has the built in shift stops for front to back AND side to side.

Tell you what....check your PM in a minute...I have an offer for you. :bigthumbsup




Richard
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Toed-off

Odds are good that the asymmetrical wear is because of the worn out parts you are replacing, though if the suspension were perfect then I would think it was the toe being off on that side.

Until you get some history with the suspension set up properly with new parts, all you can do is go by "rule of thumb" settings (whether you get the CC plates or not), and listen to the alignment guy.

If I didn't already have a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, I would be talking to you about yours. For those lurking, the stock Ford shifter is a rubbery thing - no, its worse than that, its a crime against humanity - but regardless, it needs to GO, as your first mod if you make no other.

Yes, its true, I do NOT like the OE Ford shifters.

I do have lowering springs on it. Like Racin366 said, I am worried about the tire wear with the numbers that have been posted so far. Granted, I don't know much about handling or how to set it, I just know that I must be at negative camber right now as my inside rib on my tire is as bald as head. :hihi:
The funny thing is it's only bad on the passenger side tire, which coincidentally, is the same side the wheel bearing was bad and I just replaced. :scratchchin



Racin366......
The shifter on my transmission is really cool. It is our own, in house design and is basically a modified version of our shifter we use and sell on our TKO transmission kits. :bigthumbsup
The throw is EXTREMELY short, shorter than the Pro - 5.0 shifter I use to run on the TKO in my old fox body, plus it has the built in shift stops for front to back AND side to side.

Tell you what....check your PM in a minute...I have an offer for you. :bigthumbsup




Richard
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Stock shifters are a TOTAL Joke!! I literally laugh when a see some dumbass trying to sell one on Ebay saying "Only on my car for 5K miles, perfect stock shifter!!" haha LMAO! DUDE just throw it in the garbage, people aren't gonna give you $75 dollars for it!!
And yes Richard your tire wear is probably occuring because of your worn suspension parts and the toe setting, and YUP your next purchase needs to be the Maximum Motorsports 4 Bolt CC Plates to compliment your lowering springs, it'll be money well spent, like I've said before one of my FAV mods!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Stock shifters are a TOTAL Joke!! I literally laugh when a see some dumbass trying to sell one on Ebay saying "Only on my car for 5K miles, perfect stock shifter!!" haha LMAO! DUDE just throw it in the garbage, people aren't gonna give you $75 dollars for it!!
And yes Richard your tire wear is probably occuring because of your worn suspension parts and the toe setting, and YUP your next purchase needs to be the Maximum Motorsports 4 Bolt CC Plates to compliment your lowering springs, it'll be money well spent, like I've said before one of my FAV mods!


O.k., then now that I have replaced the worn parts, is my tire going to sit normally again on the ground and stop wearing on the inside rib?




Richard
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Not until you get it aligned, haha!:laugh:
 
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