Need A Little Help With C4 Kickdown Shaft Lever

20840 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Boat735, Mar 4, 2011

Boat735

Discussion Starter · Feb 25, 2011

This is a 1970 C4 in my 1966 Mustang 289.

I decided it was time to drop my pan and check out why the PO had the outside of the kickdown lever zip tied to the neutral safety switch. When I cut the zip ties and removed the nut I found that the shaft would pull completely out of the case along with the little O-ring so I re-ziptied it on there. I dropped the pan and the valve body and when I did this little lever fell out. I saw it in there before I dropped the VB and took a picture of it.

Auto part Machine Automotive engine part Transmission part Hardware accessory

I'm assuming it's the other end of the kickdown lever that somehow broke off.

My question is is this thing a press fit? I tried putting it on the shaft and it spins. Could I just remove it and tack weld it on? If not can I buy a new one somewhere? The transmission works fine otherwise and the fluid was bright red.

I'm also concerned about what position it should be in when I put the VB back on...

Hopefully someone can help me. I'd rather not have to get a new transmission if I don't have to...

Thanks...

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kenash

· #2 · Feb 25, 2011 (Edited)

Hi,
If I understand this correctly, the shaft out the the case should have a raised "square'ish" boss, on which the lever would correspondingly fit. It's a "keyed" fit. I see the hole in your selector shaft appears to be more rounded, this doesn't look quite like I recall. My C4 is a 68 case with 70/71 parts, but, the arm and shaft should be the same.
I have my C4 on a shelf. All of these parts should still be there. I'll take a look and respond with a couple of pics.

kenash

· #3 · Feb 25, 2011

Hi Again,

I took a peek at my C4. It looks like your selector arm may have broken away from the shaft, in some way. I could see that it appeared to be "fixed" to the shaft at the case exit, upon removing the neutral safety SW.
Perhaps, as you mentioned a couple of "tacks" will fix it.
Good Luck!

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 25, 2011

Thanks for the reply Kenash. I took everything off the case. Now I just need to know the orientation of the arm before I try to fix it. I also have another issue with the tailhousing free play. My drive shaft yoke wiggles about 1/16-1/8". Could this be the reason for the elusive driveline vibration that has been driving me crazy since I first drove the car?

I took a video of the wiggle. How hard is this to repair. I have the Bad Shoe DVD's that show how to rebuild the C4, I just haven't watched them yet because I was hoping to fix these issues without a total rebuild.

Here's a link to the video...
My 66 Mustang :: 22411vid.mp4 video by jboat - Photobucket

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kenash

· #5 · Feb 25, 2011

Boat735 said:
Thanks for the reply Kenash. I took everything off the case. Now I just need to know the orientation of the arm before I try to fix it. I also have another issue with the tailhousing free play. My drive shaft yoke wiggles about 1/16-1/8". Could this be the reason for the elusive driveline vibration that has been driving me crazy since I first drove the car?

I took a video of the wiggle. How hard is this to repair. I have the Bad Shoe DVD's that show how to rebuild the C4, I just haven't watched them yet because I was hoping to fix these issues without a total rebuild.

Here's a link to the video...
My 66 Mustang :: 22411vid.mp4 video by jboat - Photobucket

Hi,
Any thought it might be either a bad output spline or an incorrect yoke? Now I'm thinking, if you had just the yoke in your hand, you could tell if there is play in those splines? The seal is just there to prevent seepage. That yoke should slide onto the shaft without any lateral play.
...and yes that could be a source of vibration, in my mind.
Hmmmm?

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 26, 2011

I googled it and it lead me right back here. Of course PaulS had the answer...

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/198732-how-replace-c4-tail-shaft-bushing.html

The driveshaft and u-joints are new. I'm going to remove the tailshaft housing and replace the bushing and seal "while I'm at it"...

All this because I wanted to change out my Neutral Safety Switch. Then I find out when I removed it that a couple of wires got melted on my exhaust and that's probably why it wasn't working...

I'm going to do my best to fix these issues before I give up and buy a whole new transmission...Wish me luck!...

David Suesz

· #7 · Feb 26, 2011

Forget trying to fix the 70 kickdown lever, the 66-68 requires a totally different type, which is available new.

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 26, 2011

David Suesz said:
Forget trying to fix the 70 kickdown lever, the 66-68 requires a totally different type, which is available new.

Got a link? I've searched and can't find anything. My transmission is a 1970 model so shouldn't I use the 1970 lever?...

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 26, 2011

Also I plan to use the 1966 style kickdown cable which I already have. It was attached to the lever when I took it off, but didn't work. Now I know why. I went to Napa Autoparts and they have all the seals I needed for the tranny. I'm also going to replace the tailshaft bushing and seal while I'm at it. I really hope this solves my vibration problem.

Here's a list of parts I've replaced already...
3rd member
axles
axle bearings
front bearings
motor mounts
tranny mount
driveshaft
wheels and tires
wheels balanced
all new front and rear suspension with alignment

This vibration has really been frustrating me...

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Boat735

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 26, 2011

Oops double post...

PaulS

· #11 · Feb 26, 2011

There are two lengths for that kick-down shaft. If you use the wrong one you will have issues with leaks or binding.

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 26, 2011

PaulS said:
There are two lengths for that kick-down shaft. If you use the wrong one you will have issues with leaks or binding.

So is the one I pictured above (in 2 pieces) the right one and should I be able to just tack weld the little arm back on the end and re-insert it into the case?

If it's not the right one could you show me what I'm looking for and where to get one?...

Thanks...

hasslesnt

· #13 · Feb 28, 2011

Hi Boat,

I had exactly the same problem with my 66 c4, the kick down actuator (in the VB) was slipping on the shaft and just rotating freely. I ended up tacking the lever back onto the shaft but the alignment of the outside bracket where the cable attaches is the most important. The bracket is located by a D which fits onto the shaft. I tacked the internal actuator at the 12 oclock position and aligned the D (with bracket attached) to be at the 1.30 position compared to the internal. The cable can then be fitted for correct kickdown operation. hope this helps.

BTW nice colour, is that the dodge PBE code? I just finished mine in that colour but without the stripes. Looks great in the sun which we have lots of!

Boat735

Discussion Starter · #14 · Mar 1, 2011

hasslesnt said:
Hi Boat,

I had exactly the same problem with my 66 c4, the kick down actuator (in the VB) was slipping on the shaft and just rotating freely. I ended up tacking the lever back onto the shaft but the alignment of the outside bracket where the cable attaches is the most important. The bracket is located by a D which fits onto the shaft. I tacked the internal actuator at the 12 oclock position and aligned the D (with bracket attached) to be at the 1.30 position compared to the internal. The cable can then be fitted for correct kickdown operation. hope this helps.

BTW nice colour, is that the dodge PBE code? I just finished mine in that colour but without the stripes. Looks great in the sun which we have lots of!

It's the viper blue that came on the 1997. I think that was the code they used. It definitely "Pops" in the direct sunlight. I am very happy with this color and it gets tons of compliments...

I talked to a co-worker who has a 65 Mustang with a C4 and he said his tranny did the exact same thing. One day his kickdown stopped working and he couldn't figure out why until he dropped the valve body. I already tacked the part and did it 180' from the D on the shaft. I looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and could not determine an exact angle. I figure I can use the kickdown cable for any additional adjustments. I hope it works...

I can't wait to have full use of my tranny. I am waiting on a tailshaft housing gasket before I can button it all up and go for a spin...:bigthumbsup

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Boat735

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 4, 2011 (Edited)

Got everything bolted back up and it works great! The kickdown finally functions like it should and no more chassis vibrations...

I'm a happy camper...:bigthumbsup:bounce2:

(Oh, and no leaks so far...Keeping my fingers crossed...)

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