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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to admit when my knowledge gets deeper into the internals of my stang I'm kinda naive so I'm searching for some advice.

I wanted to do a blower set up in the future... my local stang guy who usually works on my ride suggested I work on the bottom end since it is stock and my pony has 180k miles on her.

He said he would "Overbore forged pistons rods rings bearings, oil pump, balance and assembly" take it to machine shop and parts and labor for $2,600.

He said he has gotten the small block to about 300cc.

Now I understand somewhat what he was talking about... but my question is, is this a good price? What parts should I make sure he is getting? And what questions should I ask him?

Also this was over text what he sent... so its more than likely abbreviated. Can anyone explain a little further to me. Even though I know the guy and have done business with him I want to know what i'm putting my money into and if its the right price.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you doing the work yourself?
 

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Personally I'd advise getting a block out of a Cobra, they are much stronger than the 2V blocks...I've seen complete forged shortblocks assembled for around $3000, then you need the blower + install and tune(that is another $5000+),you should consider selling your car and just buying a Terminator. Cars can be financed, mods take cash and I'm talking bucket loads. My KB with install, tune and supporting mods cost me $7500 alone
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Would it be pointless to do this work on the bottom end and never get a blower?

Would the bottom end work and a good tune with all the mods I have be a good add or am I wasting money here?
 

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well you could build the bottom end with higher compression, that would add to hp, but that is counter to building for forced induction(in a word "yes" you are wasting your money to build and not get a blower)...really, take my advice, if I had mine to do over, I'd never have bought that KB and mods, I would have sold my car and bought the Terminator...also with 180K on the clock, virtually every other subsystem of your car probably needs replacing or upgrading to handle alot of hp...
Now you see why my 2nd stang is a 95, same body, but you can build a great 302 or 351 stroker motor for alot less cash than a forged mod motor and blower.
 

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How did I know the words "Sell it and buy a Terminator would be in there somewhere"?
 

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Are you doing the work yourself?
NO I am going to have a mechanic do the work on my mustang. He said it would cost like 2,500-3,000 all depending on the work. He said that with new piston heads and rods I could put a good blower and run higher PSI and of corse make more HP. He also told me it would be a great way to keep my engine running strong and getting better compression. :yup:
 

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well you could build the bottom end with higher compression, that would add to hp, but that is counter to building for forced induction(in a word "yes" you are wasting your money to build and not get a blower)...really, take my advice, if I had mine to do over, I'd never have bought that KB and mods, I would have sold my car and bought the Terminator...also with 180K on the clock, virtually every other subsystem of your car probably needs replacing or upgrading to handle alot of hp...
Now you see why my 2nd stang is a 95, same body, but you can build a great 302 or 351 stroker motor for alot less cash than a forged mod motor and blower.
do you ever say anything other than "BUY A TERMI"??? LOL

you are correct that in total cost it may be cheaper but you also need to add interest to the termi, but YOU ARE WRONG in sayin that building a forged bottom end and NOT S/C it is a waste. If he turbo's it or nitrous then its a GOOD thing.

CHRIS- you asked " is this a good price? What parts should I make sure he is getting? And what questions should I ask him?"
wel...
1. maybe- depends on the 2nd n 3rd answers.
2. you said forged pistons but what about the crank n rods???
3. questions u need to ask are, is the rods n crank forged (cuz u can't go over 8-10 lbs of boost without that) if the rods but not the crank 10-14lbs MAX. is he (machine shop) using torque plates??? if not RUN!!!! What compression pistons are you putting in. and last question u ask is what type of warranty/guaranty on parts and labor, and what do I need 2 do to keep it under warranty...

when I owned a machine shop I had a 100,000 mile warranty but u had to show where 4 the first 1000 miles u changed the oil twice and every 3000 after that n u needed to get a new waterpump, radiator or @ least a flush, change all filters etc... but racing all bets were off but I still guaranteed that the parts, labor was done right (like if a piston froze up I could tell if it was my fault or if the IDIOT JUST PUT A 300 SHOT OF NITROUS to it........
 
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