Unless its mainly a drag car, I would stay away from the spool. Handling will suffer and will put more stress on the axles since both tires turn the same speed, even during turns
Need Differential experienced opinions
Its been awhile since i have been on here and then again its been awhile since i broke something lol. So to be quick i have a 420rwhp kennebell GT running M/T drag radials and just broke my Auburn Diff at the track. probably put about 25 passes on it total. actually was cutting 1.6 60fts and the other day for the last run of the night i wanted to go "all out" lol and pop goes the spider gears. So i'm close to just saying screw it and put in a spool but would like to ask for some opinions first. I thinking of an eaton for a diff. maybe even the detroit locker (its both a drag car and weekend car). eaton has some trutrac diffs also. i want my power down when in the 1/4 without slip/break but would be nice to not wear tires super bad (but whatever lol) please let me know.
Thanks
Thanks
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send the auburn back to auburn thay should fix for free or cheap
That's something I haven't thought about. But if it broke then I would assume it will break again. Esp if I up the power. Anybody have better luck with these differentials? I'm not sure if I wanna give them a second chancesend the auburn back to auburn thay should fix for free or cheap
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For a street used setup I would go with a locker, or maybe an Auburn Pro. A spool on the street? Ranks up there with a Lenco or slicks on the street: Only seems like a good idea until you try it.
I still use a Ford trackloc with nearly 600 rwhp. 27" slicks, 4.10 gears, 2nd gear burnouts, 6000 rpm launches, low-1.5 60ft times. I do have a 31 spline carrier and Moser axles though.
Every couple years I need to rebuild the diff, but the rebuild kits are cheap (less than $100). I get the diff rebuilt with an extra clutch using the alternating clutch/plate method. I also use heavier gear oil, 85/140 and no friction modifier. The diff is nice and tight. The tires chirp a little during sharp right turns in the beginning, but it eventually smoothens out. I like this set-up a lot, but it's important to hit the burnout hard to get both wheels spinning.
Every couple years I need to rebuild the diff, but the rebuild kits are cheap (less than $100). I get the diff rebuilt with an extra clutch using the alternating clutch/plate method. I also use heavier gear oil, 85/140 and no friction modifier. The diff is nice and tight. The tires chirp a little during sharp right turns in the beginning, but it eventually smoothens out. I like this set-up a lot, but it's important to hit the burnout hard to get both wheels spinning.
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