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Discussion Starter #1
I have been going out on Sunday afternoons and running an average of 15 consecutive 1/8th mile runs. My best run was my very last run. Here are the results:

RT = .074
60ft = 2.153
330ft = 5.972
mph = 61.01
1/8 = 9.062
mph = 78.77

Vehicle = 2011 V6, with performance package, running 19" Pirelli P Zero tire (no drag slicks), 3,000 miles on the engine

Modifications = AirRaid CAI, BrenSpeed 93 Octane Race Tune, Performance Package (3:31)

Weather Conditions: Temp. = 100, Humidity = 40%, BP = 30.10, Elavation = 541 ft

Given this information, is this close to what I should be running, or, am I way off?
 

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You can use this calculator to plug in your numbers. There are varibles when using it but it is pretty accurate. You can do calculations for a lot of different struff.


Wallace Racing - Automotive Calculators
 

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If you can get your 60' down to 2.0 (very attainable) you will be in the 8's solidly. Good luck
 

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If you can get your 60' down to 2.0 (very attainable) you will be in the 8's solidly. Good luck
Ha! That's exactly what I was going to say!

If you're gonna make a habit of drag racing this often, you should consider upgrading your suspension and tires. Traction makes a HUGE difference on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I seem to be hooking up prettywell, considering the street tires. The heat does help with at least the track conditions. I will eventually invest in some drag radials and suspension upgrades. I think I can cut that 60 ft. time by pushing a bit more into the "red". I am shifting from first to second at around 7100. Do you think if I consistently shifted at 7500 through all gears I would be able to lower my time a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used the calculators as posted above and it gave me some interesting results. With no change in temp. or alt., this would give me a 14.1 quarter mile, however, if the temp. changed to 50 degrees, the same run (according to the calculator) would have produced a 13.7 quarter mile. Btw - the calculators are very interesting and quite fun to use.:bigthumbsup
 

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I used the calculators as posted above and it gave me some interesting results. With no change in temp. or alt., this would give me a 14.1 quarter mile, however, if the temp. changed to 50 degrees, the same run (according to the calculator) would have produced a 13.7 quarter mile. Btw - the calculators are very interesting and quite fun to use.:bigthumbsup
Like I say, there are some variables but pretty damn close. One of those variables is the driver. Not every driver drives the same.

You get the 60's down and that's gonna change alot.
 

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I seem to be hooking up prettywell, considering the street tires. The heat does help with at least the track conditions. I will eventually invest in some drag radials and suspension upgrades. I think I can cut that 60 ft. time by pushing a bit more into the "red". I am shifting from first to second at around 7100. Do you think if I consistently shifted at 7500 through all gears I would be able to lower my time a bit?
Street tires can usually get you down around 1.99. But drag radials and UPR Products suspension can drop you down into the 1.70s at your power level. That's a major drop.

If you're talking about redlining the engine when you're asking about dropping the 60 ft time by pushing a bit more into the "red", I'd so no. You're not seeing redline anywhere in that first 60'. However, if you get a little more aggressive on your shift points, you may see a better 1/8th mile ET.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the great advice! The Drag threads have some very "cool" people with good advice and no "tude"! Thanks!!:cooldude:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Here is my best slip for today. Ironically, again it was the last run of the evening:

R/T = .029, last week = .074
60' = 2.134, last week = 2.153
330 = 5.932, last week = 5.972
MPH = 60.94, last week = 61.01
1/8 = 9.020, last week = 9.062
MPH = 78.43, last week MPH = 78.77

Condition changes: Temp = 95, Humidity = 35%., BP = 29.12

Equipment changes for this run = rear wheel tire pressure reduced 10 pounds

Again, trying to break into the 8's. A tad closer this time.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

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getting better......BE CAREFUL WITH THAT LOW TIRE PSI!!!!! It may gain you better traction on launches but proves to be very unstable on the big end of the track.

If you have any video, post them up.:bigthumbsup
 

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It's getting better and I still think you can get a 2.0 60' time and that will put you in the 8's.

If you are running street tires do not drop the pressure. Also do not do any smokey burn outs on street tires just a small little burn out to clean off the tires. Also try taking out all the junk outta your car like tools, stereo equipment, spare tire, jack, girlfriend......

Also do not worry to much about your reaction time and leave when you are good and ready to get the best possible time.

Good luck:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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It's getting better and I still think you can get a 2.0 60' time and that will put you in the 8's.:bigthumbsup
Agreed.

But I'm tellin' ya, suspension & tires will knock .40 off of your time right off the bat!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took a gig for a bit of extra cash (above and beyond my current gig) This will give me $600 to spend on my vehicle. Hear was what was on my original list:

1. Barton Short Shifter
2. Rear Lower Control Arm
3. Red Line transmission fluid

Since many of you have suggested drag radials, slicks, etc. Let me know what would be (in your opinion) the best bang for the buck
 

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I took a gig for a bit of extra cash (above and beyond my current gig) This will give me $600 to spend on my vehicle. Hear was what was on my original list:

1. Barton Short Shifter
2. Rear Lower Control Arm
3. Red Line transmission fluid

Since many of you have suggested drag radials, slicks, etc. Let me know what would be (in your opinion) the best bang for the buck
Put it all in the rear end...either upper AND lower control arms or change the rear gear out. Sharad is gonna tell ya UPR products.:hihi: (Sharad......beat ya to it!):hihi:
 

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I will agree with Reese here as in the best bang for the buck will be a gear swap. After that you will experience traction issues but with a bigger smile on your face :happy
 

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I took a gig for a bit of extra cash (above and beyond my current gig) This will give me $600 to spend on my vehicle. Hear was what was on my original list:

1. Barton Short Shifter
2. Rear Lower Control Arm
3. Red Line transmission fluid

Since many of you have suggested drag radials, slicks, etc. Let me know what would be (in your opinion) the best bang for the buck
1. 2011-2012 Ford Mustang V6 GT Billet Manual Shifter & Mount Package - UPR Products

2. 2011 Ford Mustang GT V6 Chrome Moly Street Upper & Lower Control Arm Package - UPR Products

3. :bigthumbsup

For tires, I'd recommend picking up some factory 17s (I'm selling a set of 4 wheels and tires for $99/set tomorrow, so you can find these CHEAP), and mount up some 26" M/T ET Streets or Hoosier QTPs. Unless you're set on using your 19s, then just buy the stickiest 19" you can find.





Put it all in the rear end...either upper AND lower control arms or change the rear gear out. Sharad is gonna tell ya UPR products.:hihi: (Sharad......beat ya to it!):hihi:
Hey, that's MY job! :D
 

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Arrived late. All these responders gave excellent and precise advice. It's hard to overstate how efficiency in the launch and shifts makes you achieve. I'm a needle-nosed geek, 58, and never was a big guy, but I do all the things these cats said and it works bringing R/U and occasional win plastic.

Lower control arms strike me as a must on these cars; $99 to $139. UPR is a great outfit - as was said - they are racers, and when associate Jeff Pulaski broke another brand LCA at Tasca Showdown in '09, Jeremy Martorella of UPR got under the car with a set of their LCA with Jeff and helped line everything up. Very impressive.
 
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