[Kitsan]

Hi,

I need a suspension kit which has good road handling, yet a soft ride as I live in Dubai which has very bad tarmac quality and ALOT of speedbumps! I also currently run 20" wheels which doesn't help.

I also need to replace one of my OEM sway bar mounts, so I figure why not upgrade them front and back with this kit: Eibach Mustang Pro-System-Plus 35125.68 (11-14 GT, V6) - Free Shipping any comments?

I also need to replace my lower A-arms and I was thinking of getting these: BMR Mustang Front Lower Control Arms - Extended Ball Joints - Hammertone Finish AA025H (10-14 All) - Free Shipping any comments?

Is there anything else I should consider as shipping is going to cost me an arm and a leg so I may as well place a large order from American Muscle or whoever has everything I need?

Kind regards,
-Kitsan

 

[Blackpenguin69]

2011-14 Mustang Front Lower Control Arms w/ Ball Joints - Made in USA 777-4900 - Free Shipping!

These might be better for you since the roads are bad. They are oem arms with new ball joints and bushings.

 

[AMWill]

Hi,

I need a suspension kit which has good road handling, yet a soft ride as I live in Dubai which has very bad tarmac quality and ALOT of speedbumps! I also currently run 20" wheels which doesn't help.

I also need to replace one of my OEM sway bar mounts, so I figure why not upgrade them front and back with this kit: Eibach Mustang Pro-System-Plus 35125.68 (11-14 GT, V6) - Free Shipping any comments?

I also need to replace my lower A-arms and I was thinking of getting these: BMR Mustang Front Lower Control Arms - Extended Ball Joints - Hammertone Finish AA025H (10-14 All) - Free Shipping any comments?

Is there anything else I should consider as shipping is going to cost me an arm and a leg so I may as well place a large order from American Muscle or whoever has everything I need?

Kind regards,
-Kitsan

Hey Kitsan,

You definitely made some great choices there and I don't think you can go wrong.

I run the Eibach Pro Kit personally and absolutely love it.

In regards to the A Arms, BMR makes a great product and I love them, you will not be disappointed.

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions!

-Will

 

[2014_GT]

Why do you need to replace your A-arms, if I may ask? Is it due to the ball-joints? If you're in an area that has a lot of pot-holes, etc., I'd suggest sticking with an OEM style arm instead of a tubular one. Just my $0.02.

 

[csamsh]

I second the opinion of no aftermarket A-Arms. Stick with stock or stock replacement. If anything, the aftermarket arms will make your NVH worse.

My personal favorite for street car shocks and struts is Bilstein- they give a firm but very controlled and comfortable ride- somewhat like a BMW if BMW's had a solid rear axle.

If ride quality is what you're after, you don't need to worry about doing swaybars.

 

[Kitsan]

We get charged a massive premium on parts in the UAE, i'm sure it's their way of getting people to keep buying new cars.

The sway bar mount is broken and they want $100 to replace it, so I figure I might as well upgrade them at the same time.

So would these be better for me: Mustang Front Lower Control Arms (05-10 All) - Free Shipping will they fit as it says 05-10?

 

[cpembach1]

No offense but why are you so set on replacing the a arms, possibly the one good suspension bit on this car. If steering feel is what you want, a proper alignment with camber caster plates will do. You might end up with the steering wheel shake from the EPAS. If it's not broken, why fix it?

 

[Kitsan]

No offense but why are you so set on replacing the a arms, possibly the one good suspension bit on this car. If steering feel is what you want, a proper alignment with camber caster plates will do. You might end up with the steering wheel shake from the EPAS. If it's not broken, why fix it?

I love it when people take the time to read the thread.

I have a damaged a arm and a broken sway bar link.

 

[2014_GT]

It was implied but not explicitly stated. Regardless, I think the recommendations, including mine, are to stick with an OEM style A-arm. If you want an upgrade, get the Boss version; they are beefier and come with longer ball-joints and upgraded bushings.

 

[Kitsan]

Ok, why is there a $130 difference between these two?

Ford Racing BOSS 302S Mustang Front Control Arms M-3075-RA (11-14 All) - Free Shipping

2011-14 Mustang Front Lower Control Arms w/ Ball Joints - Made in USA 777-4900 - Free Shipping!

Also, the AM item states: Application. These Ford Racing BOSS 302S Front Lower Control Arms are designed as a direct fit replacement for the 2013 BOSS 302S. And can also be used on 2011 to 2014 S197 Mustangs with additional modifications, including the V6, GT and Shelby GT500 models.

What additional mods is it talking about....?

 

[PMDmustang13]

The boss302S a-arms are for serious racers and better than the other ones apparently.


For boss 302S :Recommended Upgrade. Ford Racing highly recommends the use of a Front Control Arm Bushing kit part# M-5638-C and Bump Steer Kit part# M-3130-R4 for installation of these BOSS 302S Front Control Arms.

Both Boss A-arms have extended ball joints and may require at least 18" diameter wheels. Note: Due to the relocation from the longer ball joint, 18 inch or larger wheels are required for clearance. - See more at: 2011-14 Mustang Front Lower Control Arms w/ Ball Joints - Made in USA 777-4900 - Free Shipping!

 

[2014_GT]

Ok, why is there a $130 difference between these two?

Made by different companies. Ford Racing is the more expensive one (as they always are).

 

[csamsh]

How was the A-Arm damaged? Did you hit something hard?

Anyway- I wouldn't get either of those. Just get stock replacement A-Arms. You can get them for like 75 bucks a piece.

You have a 2011- changing the bushing material in the A-Arms will make your steering rack freak out, and you don't want that.

BTW I'm pretty sure the 302S FLCA's are Multimatic pieces.

 

[Kitsan]

No idea, ive hit a couple of nasty pot holes in the past which could have done it.

Why would suspension bushings make my steering rack do strange things?

 

[dusman59]

The rack is programed for stock bushings. You will need to change the rack as well.

 

[csamsh]

I believe it's the anti nibble part of the EPAS calibration. The changes in vibration through the steering rack that come from running different bushings will make the steering rack calibration freak out. You can't reprogram the rack at all, only solution is to get a new one. Afaik, it's only a problem on 2011 cars.

 

[Kitsan]

The rack is programed for stock bushings. You will need to change the rack as well.

I believe it's the anti nibble part of the EPAS calibration. The changes in vibration through the steering rack that come from running different bushings will make the steering rack calibration freak out. You can't reprogram the rack at all, only solution is to get a new one. Afaik, it's only a problem on 2011 cars.

That's pretty bizzaro.

What rack do people generally replace it with?

 

[dusman59]

There are a few threads on this problem when changing the A-arms on 2011's. If I remember right it was a 2012 Boss rack that has a completely different program for the EPAS.

 

[csamsh]

Back in 2011 when it was a problem, the only rack that wasn't complete unobtanium was the boss 302R/S rack, and people used those ($1000). Now....I bet you can get just a regular Ford rack for cheaper.

 

[Kitsan]

Well, i'm going to get either 4 or 6 pot brembos off a wreaker later this year. Shall I just grab the rack too if it's not a 2011?