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Discussion Starter #1
So here's the scoop I have had this 93 lx for a few months now and it has been reliable and runs well for the most part. But about two months the CEL came on but it still runs well, although tach never goes past about 2.5k shows idle at 500k.

MPG has never been all that great but its mostly city miles (best is 23 mpg). I finally got around to running codes and got these 33,32,24, and 22.

33--Tps noisy/ harsh on line
32-- Egr post sensor below closed limit
24-- Act--Air charge temp sensor
22-- Map? not sure what else it said

The CEL has gone off a couple times when there is a change in weather usually right after raining and its really humid here. Seems to run a little smoother when this happens.

I have replaced the ACT today to no avail and I did replace a coil shortly after I got the car. Previous owner said the plugs and wires where done a couple months before I got car and they do appear newer.

So fellow stangers I need your help! What do you think is causing this if it wasn't for emissions testing I would probably leave it be but I need to figure out what is causing this CEL and how to cease it once and for all.

TIA
 

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First off, you're reading your codes wrong. They're 3 digit codes, not 2. You're probably seeing codes 223 and 224

Based on the numbers and the description, I'd say you've got a classic case of Ignition Control Module-itis. It's a very common problem.

It's the grey box with plugs at either end mounted to the front of the intake manifold behind the alternator. Don't skimp here. The cheap chinese aftermarket pieces don't seem to last as long.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've had a couple people tell me they were in a sequence of two and this site seems to confirm that:

FORD 1983-1995 OBD1 Decoder

You sure about the three? And if so where can I find a list of those codes I don't want to be chasing parts just find the fix.
 

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3-Digit Codes

The change started around 1991 and not all model ECU's used them. I believe they went to 3 digit codes across the entire lineup in 1993 and carried that to 1996 when everyone went OBD-II
 

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We had simular problems plus a problem after fueling it would not start if you stopped for any length of time had to wait about 15 minutes then good to go, changed the contol module and almost all codes were gone and no problems after fueling (had a spare from a parts car). Not as knowledable as these guy but it did fix our problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I haven't swapped the module yet, but thanks for the input. I have a buddy with a 90' 2.3 and where going to try his module and see if it makes any difference. Need to pass inspection soon, but would rather not buy a $200 mdoule if it doesn't fix my problem.
 

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'90 and '93 have different ignition modules that do not interchange. The '90 version is mounted on the distributor. The '93, does not have a distributor and the ignition module is mounted on the front of the intake manifold directly behind the power steering pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well my turns out my buddy's car was a 93, he had a module which seems to work better. My tach works now but the CEL stills comes off and on. Any ideas? This is getting really frustrating and I needed inspection like yesterday.

Also does anyone have a diagram on installing the module, I didn't put any new grease and I'm wondering how important that is also, should you try to clean the backside some before installing the new module?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone have the proper procedure on changing the DIS module? I'm wondering if you should unhook the battery or if it matters also if I should put dielectric grease on the backside?

I also noticed this morning that one of the connectors on my plug going to the back coil has a jacked up connector, would that be enough to throw a CEL?
 

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YES disconnect the battery

And NO do not use die-electric grease. YOU MUST however use a heat sink compound or you'll shorten the life of the module from years to hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Replaced the module today and did the plug wires, which turned out to be a nightmare. Broke the porcelain on # 3 on the driver side and had to snake it out between the manifold and replace the spark plug. Finally got everything back together and come to find out the new coil on bought as well for the right side of the motor didn't work but it ends up it was only the module I replaced that and put the old coil back on and it's running great now:bigthumbsup

It was a pita but glad it's done, also bought a OBD1 reader which will come in handy in the future.
 
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