Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Need instruction on how to remove and install lower ball joint on 2000 ford Mustang v6 3.8L engine. If any one has pics, video or just plane instructions, I would greatly appreciate any info.
Thanks!
Junior:shiny:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,348 Posts
Jack up car, remove wheel. Remove lower strut bolts. Remove nut to ball joint. Either get a ball joint separator or a big MF hammer to bang down on the ball joint to remove. Remember if you use the hammer, you need to brace to lower arm so it doesn't move when you hit it. We use another floor jack. Once it is out, install the new one.

It is best if you have air tools for this procedure so the ball joint doesn't spin when removing or installing the nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
yea man, like shinerstang said, best if u have air tools. they actually make hand tools to remove them, but u will need a HUGE hammer to do it. I was goin to replace mine, but luckily I had bad tie-rod ends. which are way easier to replace. I would just pay a shop to it if I didn't have the tools. My buddy had to take his control arms to the shop to get them pressed in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Checker Auto has a press (kind of a big C-Clamp with adapters that presses the ball joint out and presses the new one in. Takes a bit of effort but IMO it is better than that huge hammer.

I guess I should tell you to be careful and be sure you support the A-Arm with a floor jack before undoing the ball joint nut or the spring will come out in your face!!!! NOT GOOD!!! :nono:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Just suck it up and pay the $$ for the shop to do it and save yourself the headache. its not that much money and they do it really quick.

Right now my shop is doing my front lower control arms. Tumbling and repainting with new balljoints ect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,348 Posts
Just suck it up and pay the $$ for the shop to do it and save yourself the headache. its not that much money and they do it really quick.

Right now my shop is doing my front lower control arms. Tumbling and repainting with new balljoints ect.
That's not why we are here..... He is asking because he doesn't want to pay a shop to do it. It is a $15.00 part, and he wants to learn.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Didnt realize i was stepping on anyone's toes by suggesting that the $15 shop charge was worth the headache of removing the old and pressing in the new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Didnt realize i was stepping on anyone's toes by suggesting that the $15 shop charge was worth the headache of removing the old and pressing in the new.

$15 shop charge? what ghetto shop are you going to? flat rate for that job is probably around 2 hours. thats well over $175 at my shop, plus parts and fees
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
I actually messed up a bit on my earlier post. Be sure you have the car on jack stands and then support the A-arm with a floor jack before undoing the strut bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
$15 shop charge? what ghetto shop are you going to? flat rate for that job is probably around 2 hours. thats well over $175 at my shop, plus parts and fees
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.
just like 95% of CP work.

that's the joy of being flat rate...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.
Either way, here is a video link that will give you a pretty good idea as to what to do. It is not a mustang specific video but you should get the idea and make your own decisions from there. If you look at this and dont feel comfortable doing the work dont do it. Have a professional do it. Of all the parts on your car you really dont want to jack up, your suspension or steering is probably top on that list. Going fast is great but being able to steer is much more important.
YouTube - How to Replace a Warn Ball Joint on a Car : How to Remove a Ball Joint Retaining Nut
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.
it probably wont take 2 hours for a professional to do it, it just pays over 2 hours. and if someone brought us a control arm to press out an old balljoint and press in a new one we would charge at least a half hour labor minimum. ive never heard of anywhere that would do that for $15
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to all who have answered my question. I'm going to tackle this today and I'll let you guys know how it's going. :happydance:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Okay it was hard! Very hard but I got that ball joint out with a combination of hammer and a ball joint press. I did more hammering then pressing. Got it done:shigrin New ball joint was $25.19 saved me a lot of Money! Shop wanted to charge me $459.00 Again thanks to all who positively replied. Have a great memorial day.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,348 Posts
Okay it was hard! Very hard but I got that ball joint out with a combination of hammer and a ball joint press. I did more hammering then pressing. Got it done:shigrin New ball joint was $25.19 saved me a lot of Money! Shop wanted to charge me $459.00 Again thanks to all who positively replied. Have a great memorial day.:)
Exactly...... A big MF hammer..... You will get better at it the more you do it......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Okay it was hard! Very hard but I got that ball joint out with a combination of hammer and a ball joint press. I did more hammering then pressing. Got it done:shigrin New ball joint was $25.19 saved me a lot of Money! Shop wanted to charge me $459.00 Again thanks to all who positively replied. Have a great memorial day.:)
Glad to hear you got it done. I am starting to think that it might be where you guys live as to why your shops charge so much. My locally owned small town shop has always given me good deals. Other shops wanted over $800 to do some work on my van and he charged $250.

Either way, good to hear you got the job done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Lower Ball Joint Removal

To remove the Lower ball joint, we used a small torch & heated up the A-Arm (while jacked up); comes out after you hammer it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Front Lower Ball Joint....I just did it on my '02

TOOLS NEEDED: Floor jack with wheels (a scissor will not work with this), Jack stands, 7/8 open ended wrench or a crescent wrench, 12mm socket, short (normal sized not long spark plug type) socket around 22mm, Ball joint press kit Loan a tool from an auto parts store, hammer, and a blow torch heat is your friend!!!

Takes around 1hour or so

First I put a jack stand under the control arm. Then all I had to do was take off the caliper with your 12mm socket. Then I took off the nut for the joint with the 7/8 open ended. Then I heated up the area that the bolt goes through and put the short 22mm'ish socket over the bolt and hit it out with a hammer. There is no need to take off the strut this way. And therefore I didn't need to pull the strut back in place. But by doing it this way you will not be able to use the ball joint press kit. But it is still handy so if you don't have one get it at autozone through the loan a tool. Then you have to pull the wheel out of the way. You will need someone else to hold it out of the way while you place the ball joint through the control arm and use one of the pressers to hammer it in place. If the joint just slides right in. guess what you hav the wrong one, this may happen because it happened to me. Seems that the manufacturers of the $25 lifetime ones have messed up because I went to 2 different stores o'riely's and autozone and got the same results. I had to settle for the $15 1 year part. And I even tried the more expensive moog ones at O'riely's and used a calibrator to measure them and the 2 of them had different measurements. That was why i went to the 1 year at autozone cuz I had used one of those just 18mos prior. Well Back to finishing the repair, take your jack and put it under the rotor and jack up the strut, wheel it into place and let it down slowly, then you just out the nut on and you're done.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top