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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,
I'm changing out the spark plugs on my '66 Coupe. It's a very stock 289, 2 barrel, with a/c, power steering, and the T/E components still on it. I used Autolite 45s... but, I couldn't get the very last plug out!! I just can't seem to get enough clearance to unscrew it. I'm not sure what # plug it is... it's the plug on the driver's side, closest to the front of the car. Any tricks, tips or special tools that would help? I tried for hours today, and no luck.

Also, the boot on the wire for that particular plug was cracked/broken. I know I can buy individual wires, but is it better to replace wires as a set? Is one brand better than another, and is there a big difference between 7mm and 8mm wires? The car has 7mm wires right now so I'm sure that's all it needs... but if I do replace the whole set, I may as well get 8mm if they're better!

Thanks for the help!

- AJ
 
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Is the plug loose?

Can you post a photo?

I have not heard of this prob before.

You do not need 8 mm wires, they sill do nothing for you. I suggest Bosch brand from most auto stores. kragen has them for sure.
 

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Hello tomfoolery76,
Sounds like you have an issue and perhaps you not have all the tools
that could help you.
I say this with complete respect and admiration for taking on the job.

So let me try to help a little
FIRST - -the plug you are having trouble with is #5 on your motor.

SECOND - the likely issue is that the power steering pump is getting in the
way of normal removal. SOmetimes you can get the plug out with the
use of universals joints and several extensions. Not sure if you know what a
universal is - but a parts store would and you will likely need one.

THIRD - - You are wise not to try and rush this or force things - -you don not want
to break the plug in the head. IF this happens - -DO NOT panic it can be fixed
but try your best not to break the plug.

FOURTH - -sometimes on an issue like this a little more work may help make things
easier. What am I saying you may be wondering - - what I am talking about
is moving the power steering pump out of the way.
Pretty simple to do BUT will require you re-tighten the belt after. Again not big issue.
What you could do is remove the bolts that hold the power steering unit
in place - -I think there are 3 remove those - - lift the power steering pump
to the side - -it will be OK - - use a coat hanger or something to hold it out of your way. Then you can get to the #5 plug much easier.


As far as PLUG wires - -I agree the 7mm wires are fine for your motor. The idea is that the thicker wires are able to hold a larger spark - like the spark from an
electronic ignition or MSD box. Just stick with the 7mm and you will be fine.

Because the boot is dry and brittle on that plug - I would change them all.
If not - -you will likely have arcing and other issues.

So if unsure of the universal use or that approach - let us know

DO NOT be nervous to move the power steering pump - -I may v=create a little extra work BUT in the long run may save you a lot of time

Let us know or if uncertain of anything here 0 please just ask

Print Dad
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the plug loose?

Can you post a photo?

I have not heard of this prob before.

You do not need 8 mm wires, they sill do nothing for you. I suggest Bosch brand from most auto stores. kragen has them for sure.
Hey 67cpe - no, the plug isn't loose at all. I'll try to get some pics tonight. I have a feeling the plugs are harder to get to because of the TE components...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello tomfoolery76,
So let me try to help a little
FIRST - -the plug you are having trouble with is #5 on your motor.

SECOND - the likely issue is that the power steering pump is getting in the
way of normal removal. SOmetimes you can get the plug out with the
use of universals joints and several extensions. Not sure if you know what a
universal is - but a parts store would and you will likely need one.

As far as PLUG wires - -I agree the 7mm wires are fine for your motor. The idea is that the thicker wires are able to hold a larger spark - like the spark from an
electronic ignition or MSD box. Just stick with the 7mm and you will be fine.

Because the boot is dry and brittle on that plug - I would change them all.
If not - -you will likely have arcing and other issues.

Print Dad - thanks so much for the detailed write up! I hadn't even thought of moving the power steering pump... I was so focused on trying to get at the plug from above and below it. I'll have to look to see if that will work. I wish I had thought about doing the plugs a few weeks back when I replaced the water pump because the ps pump was out of the way then! Doh!

My progress on this '66 has been slow, but considering that before this car I had only changed a dead battery and put gas in a car, I don't think I'm doing half bad!
 

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... but, I couldn't get the very last plug out!! I just can't seem to get enough clearance to unscrew it. I'm not sure what # plug it is... it's the plug on the driver's side, closest to the front of the car. Any tricks, tips or special tools that would help?...
1. Spray some PB Blaster (or similar product) around the plug threads. Let it soak for a day or so. Sometimes this helps a LOT to free a stuck/rusted nut.

2. Not trying to insult you: You're using a deep-well socket specially designed for spark plugs, right? They have an inner rubber ring that holds & protects the plug.

3. Get a good universal joint set for your socket. Don't waste money on cheap stuff.

4. Stock exhaust manifolds? I had trouble accessing a few spark plugs when I installed repro hi-po exhaust manifolds. Had to dremel the manifolds to gain clearance.

If that's the kind of clearance you need, there are thin-wall spark plug sockets that might do the trick: Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 640855 3/8-Inch Drive Spark Plug Socket Set, 5-Piece: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #8
if you need parts or service/help go to mustangs and fast fords in santa ana. tell the owner you want mr. bill to work on it.

Mustangs & Fast Fords OC
I've actually called and/or gone in person to Fast Fords 4-5 times now, but they're always too busy to take my car! They always say it will be 2-3 weeks before I can get in, but then 2-3 weeks later it's the same story. That's actually why I've started doing everything myself. I'd much rather pay someone else to do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1. Spray some PB Blaster (or similar product) around the plug threads. Let it soak for a day or so. Sometimes this helps a LOT to free a stuck/rusted nut.

2. Not trying to insult you: You're using a deep-well socket specially designed for spark plugs, right? They have an inner rubber ring that holds & protects the plug.

3. Get a good universal joint set for your socket. Don't waste money on cheap stuff.

4. Stock exhaust manifolds? I had trouble accessing a few spark plugs when I installed repro hi-po exhaust manifolds. Had to dremel the manifolds to gain clearance.
Hey Boomer!
1) I almost sprayed PB Blaster, but I wasn't sure if it would be bad if it dripped into the hole once the plug came out. If that's not a concern, then I'll definitely try it!

2) Yep, I've got a 13/16 plug socket. It worked fine on the other 7... it's just this last one that's giving me grief.

3) I bought a universal joint from Lowe's tonight, thanks to Print Dad's tip! I'll give that a shot later this week when time permits, and if no luck I'll move the power steering pump.

4) Here's why your 2nd question didn't insult me... I actually have no idea what the exhaust manifolds look like, or where they are! (Please don't kick me off the forums!) Honestly, after I bought the car, my neighbor came and looked under the hood and said, "oh, you've got a/c and power steering." And I thought to myself, "How the hell did you know that? What are you looking at?" But, I'm learning as I go!
 
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I've actually called and/or gone in person to Fast Fords 4-5 times now, but they're always too busy to take my car! They always say it will be 2-3 weeks before I can get in, but then 2-3 weeks later it's the same story. That's actually why I've started doing everything myself. I'd much rather pay someone else to do it!
sounds like he's avoiding your car for some reason, lol.

is there something terribly wrong with it?

tell him you are a friend of monroes and if he's too busy you and your friends will just take your cars to mustangs and american classics. this should get you some action, lol.


Also ask him if he ever got the correct date coded muffler for his almost concours burgundy coupe.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sounds like he's avoiding your car for some reason, lol.

is there something terribly wrong with it?

tell him you are a friend of monroes and if he's too busy you and your friends will just take your cars to mustangs and american classics. this should get you some action, lol.
lol I don't *think* there any major issues, but then I can't even get all the plugs out! I've actually talked to 2 or 3 different people, and none of them have actually seen the car. I wondered if they thought the job might be too small. When I spoke to them, I told them all I knew it needed was brakes and tires, but I wanted them to do an inspection and diagnostic too. They charge $250 for that.

But, the more time that goes by, the more I learn from the forum and the less I think I need their diagnostic! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Capture.JPG

Trying to attach a picture.

- the top arrow is a metal rod that runs along side the valve cover. It's above the plugs. It also has a support arm/brace that connects just below the valve cover, and just above and to the right of plug #5.

- the middle arrow is a hose connection that connects to the metal rod. I assume the rod and this hose are somehow related to the T/E system.

- the bottom arrow is the end of the socket I left on the plug for reference

Between that metal rod and the shock tower... ugh...
 
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yes.

i forgot how i did those.

here's an option.

loosen the bolts on the front of power steering pump and remove the belt from the pulley.

pull the top of the pump towards the drivers fender. this will hopefully give you enough access to the plug. if it does not then remove the pump adjusting bolt. this will allow it to move farther.

get like a 8" long 3/8 drive breaker bar or an 8" long ratchet with a swivel head and stick it on the socket. i think this should work.

they make long and short spark plug sockets if also if you need or try a std deep socket.


you do not need a diagnostic. just tell them your brakes suck and you need them fixed. the diagnostic is free then, lol.
 

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You want help? I'll do them for you, if you do the plugs and wires in my 55 Chevy in return. Some damm fool put the distributor all the way in the back of the motor where you can't reach it. And routed the plug wires under the exhaust. You can't work on anything unless you stand on a milk crate, and then you bang your head on the hood. My head was already mushy before I started..
 

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Hey Boomer!
1) I almost sprayed PB Blaster, but I wasn't sure if it would be bad if it dripped into the hole once the plug came out. If that's not a concern, then I'll definitely try it!

2) Yep, I've got a 13/16 plug socket. It worked fine on the other 7... it's just this last one that's giving me grief.

3) I bought a universal joint from Lowe's tonight, thanks to Print Dad's tip! I'll give that a shot later this week when time permits, and if no luck I'll move the power steering pump.

4) Here's why your 2nd question didn't insult me... I actually have no idea what the exhaust manifolds look like, or where they are! (Please don't kick me off the forums!) Honestly, after I bought the car, my neighbor came and looked under the hood and said, "oh, you've got a/c and power steering." And I thought to myself, "How the hell did you know that? What are you looking at?" But, I'm learning as I go!
Use a towel to soak-up excess PB Blaster before you remove the spark plug. I'm kinda fussy, so I'd also use Q-tips to get as much as possible.

Stock exhaust manifolds:


Hi-Po exhaust manifolds:
 

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You want help? I'll do them for you, if you do the plugs and wires in my 55 Chevy in return. Some damm fool put the distributor all the way in the back of the motor where you can't reach it. And routed the plug wires under the exhaust. You can't work on anything unless you stand on a milk crate, and then you bang your head on the hood. My head was already mushy before I started..
HAHAHA I guess I shouldn't complain too loudly, huh?
 

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HAHAHA I guess I shouldn't complain too loudly, huh?
You know I had one I could not get off, on my 351C motor. It felt like the socket was seated and I would turn-turn-turn and it would never loosen up and come out. Turned out it was a sheet metal heat shield connected to the exhaust manifold, it was bent/misformed from years of use and abuse. Once I ripped that out of the way, no more problems. Does your have a sheet metal heat shield around the plugs?
 

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Cracker - no heat shield... just a very inaccessible plug!

But, that sucker is finally out!! It took the 13/16 socket connected to a universal joint connected to a 6" extension connected to the socket wrench. It still took some doing, but that worked!

Then getting the new plug in was a PITA. I actually couldn't get reach the hole with the new plug to screw it in because my hand wouldn't fit between the shock tower and that dang metal vent tube for the smog system. Fortunately, my wife is a petite lady so I made her help me. She gave up pretty quick, but I wouldn't let those baby sized hands quit! She finally got the plug in and all of the wires have been updated to MSD Street Fire wires. I think she has a new respect for auto mechanics!

Of course, in retrospect and in case anybody else ever comes across this problem, I think it would have been easier to just move the power steering pump!! But, once I had invested a few hours in that one plug, I didn't want to invest another couple in PS pump.

Thanks to everyone (Print Dad, 67cpe, Retired Boomer, Cracker) for the helpful advice!!
 

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if you have a dedicated spark plug socket that is tooled for a 3/4 inch wrench it helps a lot. I frequently use that. if you get the socket on the plug then use the wrench to loosen it. then leave the socket in place to remove it the rest of the way by hand. putting it back in I do it the same way. get the plug in and get it started. put the socket on and use that so you can hand tighten the plug. then snug it up with the wrench. sometimes it is a lot easier than using a ratchet.
 

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...a very inaccessible plug!

...getting the new plug in was a PITA. I actually couldn't get reach the hole with the new plug to screw it in because my hand wouldn't fit between the shock tower and that dang metal vent tube for the smog system. Fortunately, my wife is a petite lady so I made her help me.

Thanks to everyone (Print Dad, 67cpe, Retired Boomer, Cracker) for the helpful advice!!
Ummm. I kinda forgot to mention this but once the plug is loose you can likely push a 6" piece of rubber fuel line or thinner plastic line over the plug that fits it snugly and simply use that to remove the old one and install the new one. done this before myself on some pitas.

soooo, i guess if you ever need to do it again this info might be helpful, lol.
 
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