[LSUCools]

I had to break my engine down to find out what was wrong with it. It's at the machine shop currently and will be bored out to a 0.60" piston. I want to go up on the cam since now would be the time to do it. I was told to go with a Comp Cam 268H... The engine kit I'm looking at has an upgrade to an RV cam? What's the difference in these two cams?

 

[gearheadhick429]

rv cam will be more low end torque related. the 268 cam is descent as well. if you have an auto and you don't want to be playing with the converter id look more toward the rv. it will give you better performance with the rest of the equipment staying stock. the 268 will give you some sound where the rv wont so much.

unless you have to go 60 over I wouldn't. stick to 40 if you can help it.

 

[imlowr2]

A couple of things here... First, going .60 over on a bore is quite a bit. .30 over is the norm. When you bore that far over the cylinder walls become extremely thin which will cause serious overheating problems later on. They may be going .60 over due to serious scaring in the cylinder walls. I'd maybe look for another block that can be bored to .30 over instead. Just my 2 cents and trying to help.
Secondly, RV, 1/4 race, 3/4 race and full race cams? No such thing. To figure out what a cam is and what it will do, you need the stats on the cam such as lift and duration. The higher the lift, the more the cam will be designed for top end performance. The higher the duration, the more the lope of the engine and timing of the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves. If it's an everyday cruiser, I'd go with a stock cam or if you want to step up, go with something like a .480 lift, 272 duration. When you go into higher numbers you should also look into going with roller rockers, springs, etc.

 

[LSUCools]

Well, there was a SLIGHT lip in the valve and it's a '68 block 302. We've called around to multiple "experts" that stated with it being the older model block, boring to a 0.60" over would give us no problems... But trust me when I say I struggles coming to this decision as I'm aware of the consequences. I also left out this block has GT40 heads so I'm looking to make it sound badass since it's torn apart already. I will be driving it everyday to work (albeit a mile from home)... I'm not looking to go crazy with the cam, but def want it to sound great.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[3pt7v6xer]

LSU - I will state it another way.....DO NOT USE 60 OVER BLOCK!!!

Find another block. It will overheat or/and the rings won't seal or/and the rings will break or/and worse.....

 

[sp66stang]

knowing the problems that may occur, then go 60 over my block is 60 and have no problems been like that since 1991. I have a second block ready to go in I got it dirt cheap $0. mine is a 1970 truck block little extra material there. if you feel comfortable with it, I say go for it.homer.gif

 

[mafraziersr]

For cam selection, I say go to the experts. Competition Cams has an excellent website and they are very helpful if you call them. Call them and tell them what you want to accomplish and they can help you pick the right cam. I have a Comp Cams cam and valve train with a nice ratty idle and am very happy with it. Have fun!

 

[sandpiper]

I have Comp 270's and I'm definitely not happy with the fit of their gears to the nose of the cam. I called the tech dept. and was told "I don't know what to tell you Bro". So then I went online and after asking for specs of the nose and gear I was ignored then disconnected. I then got hold of the CEO. That got the ball rolling and every higher up started calling me. After they admitted there was a concern with the grind of the cam nose they then back peddled and told me I wasn't using the correct Ford spacers and that must be why there was so much slop. When I told them I work at a Ford dealer, bought them there and gave them the part number I was then told "well, I don't know what else to tell you".

Maybe they fixed that concern by now but I'll never buy Comp again. Not for a classic but hopefully the quality is better for the old school stangs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWsisnSZ0q4



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[Ivy66GT]

You can always sleeve the block back to stock size pistons if you are afraid of +60. Costs about $100 a cylinder.

 

[LSUCools]

Need more...

So, I've got to find out what kind of converter I have as well as the gears in the rear end. Can anyone tell me what I'm looking for specifically to answer this? Apparently i need to know this to get the right cam... My people failed to mention that

 

[imlowr2]

Besides your engine, it sounds like the rest of the drive train is stock. The converter is most likely a stock converter and not a stall converter. The rear gears, if they are stock are more than likely 3.00 gearing.