Congrats on the Magna Supercharger, mine goes on this coming Thursday morning, BUMMER on the catch can situation. Did you contact Magnsuon directly, and request tech. help? Looks like you did everything ok from the photo's.
Need Help with Catch Can, Magnacharger
G
What did I do wrong? The catch can is BONE dry. The bottom bleed bolt doesn't even have a molecule of oil on it. I have labeled the pics to show how I set it up. Should I have gone a different route? I have the pics labeled if you zoom in.
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The catch can should come right from the valve cover and then connect to everything else or you will not be catching any blow off oil from the valves.
Wow! I have no idea what Magnacharger has you doing. What a mess!What did I do wrong? The catch can is BONE dry. The bottom bleed bolt doesn't even have a molecule of oil on it. I have labeled the pics to show how I set it up. Should I have gone a different route? I have the pics labeled if you zoom in.
The system is very basic.
You want a hose going from the drivers side valve cover (PCV side) to the “in” of the catch can. Then you run the “out” of the catch can to any vacuum source between the back side of the throttle blades and the blower screws. Any way you make that work…..will work.
You want a hose going from the passenger side valve cover (fresh air in) to any fitting that is between the front side of the throttle blades and the MAF.
The system works by first drawing “metered” air (post MAF) into the crankcase through the passenger side valve cover. Then air is pulled out of the crankcase through the drivers side valve cover (PCV valve in cover), through the catch can and into the intake/blower. Because the “fresh air in” is after the MAF the air that is being pulled out of the crankcase and being introduced post throttle blades is “metered” and doesn’t mess with the A/F ratio. You can think of the system as a small “air bypass” in regards to the TB.
Hope that helps.
Thanks sqidd you explained it much better than I could have ++1
G
Dude that is exactly the way I have it for passenger side. The only thing I did or have different from the original Mishimoto piece is I bought a couple brass fuel fittings that use a 3/8" barbed tip so I can use the same old lines that the factory PCV system uses. Those are located in the top of the Mishimoto can that connects to the hoses. And I had to purchase some fuel line to make it the right length. I'm baffled. And if I were to do a driverside breather I wouldn't know what to do. That 3 way fitting that I labeled "what is this" in red has me scratching my head. You would have to click on my pics and then click on zoom to see the tiny ass writing I put on there. Didn't know it was that small when I edited it in paint. So that's the catch can you told me to hold off for and said it could do 3.5% increase in horsepower eh? It's badass. Looks like you got rid of Frankentensioner too.Wow! I have no idea what Magnacharger has you doing. What a mess!
The system is very basic.
You want a hose going from the drivers side valve cover (PCV side) to the “in” of the catch can. Then you run the “out” of the catch can to any vacuum source between the back side of the throttle blades and the blower screws. Any way you make that work…..will work.
You want a hose going from the passenger side valve cover (fresh air in) to any fitting that is between the front side of the throttle blades and the MAF.
The system works by first drawing “metered” air (post MAF) into the crankcase through the passenger side valve cover. Then air is pulled out of the crankcase through the drivers side valve cover (PCV valve in cover), through the catch can and into the intake/blower. Because the “fresh air in” is after the MAF the air that is being pulled out of the crankcase and being introduced post throttle blades is “metered” and doesn’t mess with the A/F ratio. You can think of the system as a small “air bypass” in regards to the TB.
Hope that helps.
Yeah, if that is the hose going to the CAI between the TB and MAF the "fresh air in" side is all set.:bigthumbsupDude that is exactly the way I have it for passenger side.
I didn't even see the label, LOL. Yeah, WTF is going on there. Where do the three hoses go to from that "T"?That 3 way fitting that I labeled "what is this" in red has me scratching my head.
Yep, Gen 3.0 I think. It works great as a catch tank. How much performance it offers has still not been tested yet. I may have wasted my time.:hihi:So that's the catch can you told me to hold off for and said it could do 3.5% increase in horsepower eh? It's badass.
Oh yeah, no need for that when you are running a 10 rib setup on just the blower pulley. The stock belt runs as if the car had no blower. That pic is old though. The current 10 rib setup is quite a bit better. I think I am on Gen 5.0 now! But in this case completely worth it.:bigthumbsupLooks like you got rid of Frankentensioner too.
G
So that T is like this: left side of T goes to front of blower, the center portion joins to dip into the PCV lookin thing on the valve cover driver side and then the right side of T hose goes over to the master brake. So if I that is setup right what's going on? Is 3/8" fuel lines too small?
CAI line goes to catch can, catch can goes to pcv..... I only got probably 600 miles on the car since the installation, but there should at least be some residue.
So that T is like this: left side of T goes to front of blower, the center portion joins to dip into the PCV lookin thing on the valve cover driver side and then the right side of T hose goes over to the master brake. So if I that is setup right what's going on? Is 3/8" fuel lines too small?
CAI line goes to catch can, catch can goes to pcv..... I only got probably 600 miles on the car since the installation, but there should at least be some residue.
Lets get to basics here, that setup is a mess!
How many vacuum ports does the blower/elbow/whatever have behind the throttle blades/in front of the screws (very high vacuum there)?
I’m going to tell you how to hook everything you need to run as cleanly as possible. The brake booster T’d into the PCV hose is STUPID!
G
First, you can make a better system yourself and get ride of that mess. The most basic is to simply plumb the can inline on the driver side. You can leave the passenger side alone.
Second, what type of lines are you running? It looks like one of the lines is already collapsing as it makes the bend at the can. Lines get very pliable when they are hot.
Third, if the lines are not big enough it will actually be a restriction and not worth any gains you might see from stopping a little oil in the intake tract. I ran a JLT can inline on my driver side and it caused enough of a restriction that oil started to push past the oil filter. Swapped to an open system and no more oil on the filter.
Second, what type of lines are you running? It looks like one of the lines is already collapsing as it makes the bend at the can. Lines get very pliable when they are hot.
Third, if the lines are not big enough it will actually be a restriction and not worth any gains you might see from stopping a little oil in the intake tract. I ran a JLT can inline on my driver side and it caused enough of a restriction that oil started to push past the oil filter. Swapped to an open system and no more oil on the filter.
G
3...an evap, brake and another. This link is to the installation manual. Starting on step 132 shows a breakdown of the hose/t-fitting assembly, step 136 shows the 3 barbs that you are asking about. http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manual-FordMustang4.6L3V.pdf
G
fuel line. same size as pcvFirst, you can make a better system yourself and get ride of that mess. The most basic is to simply plumb the can inline on the driver side. You can leave the passenger side alone.
Second, what type of lines are you running? It looks like one of the lines is already collapsing as it makes the bend at the can. Lines get very pliable when they are hot.
Third, if the lines are not big enough it will actually be a restriction and not worth any gains you might see from stopping a little oil in the intake tract. I ran a JLT can inline on my driver side and it caused enough of a restriction that oil started to push past the oil filter. Swapped to an open system and no more oil on the filter.
3...an evap, brake and another. This link is to the installation manual. Starting on step 132 shows a breakdown of the hose/t-fitting assembly, step 136 shows the 3 barbs that you are asking about. http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manual-FordMustang4.6L3V.pdf
From the pic it looks like there is only two fittings coming off of the blower. One for the EVAP and one for the Booster. Is there a third one?
I would like to see three fittings on the blower. One to the booster, one to the EVAP and one to the catch can/valve cover. Can you hook it up like that? The “T” in the brake booster line is just stupid.
And [email protected] is right. There is so much vacuum in front of the screws that it will collapse the hoses. I used braided stainless on my KB when I first put it together because their supplied house would collapse on itself.:nono:
G
Ok, I did write on the pics again. Kinda feel queer for it, but you guys are helping me so it's the best I can do. Do you think that fuel line would collapse? If you look close at it you can see braid underneath the rubber. And I went and looked at the lines after [email protected]'s comment and they don't look to be collapsed or kinked. I WAS gonna use that line that came with the kit but it didn't come with enough hose and I couldn't get JUST that hose at Home Depot or Ace's hardware. I checked the Plumbing section at both places. It looks just like hose that came on a sink squirter.From the pic it looks like there is only two fittings coming off of the blower. One for the EVAP and one for the Booster. Is there a third one?
I would like to see three fittings on the blower. One to the booster, one to the EVAP and one to the catch can/valve cover. Can you hook it up like that? The “T” in the brake booster line is just stupid.
And [email protected] is right. There is so much vacuum in front of the screws that it will collapse the hoses. I used braided stainless on my KB when I first put it together because their supplied house would collapse on itself.:nono:
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No telling if the line will collapse without watching it. You can have someone rev the motor while you watch it. The fuel line will be better than anything else you can get in a hurry though.Ok, I did write on the pics again. Kinda feel queer for it, but you guys are helping me so it's the best I can do. Do you think that fuel line would collapse? If you look close at it you can see braid underneath the rubber. And I went and looked at the lines after [email protected]'s comment and they don't look to be collapsed or kinked. I WAS gonna use that line that came with the kit but it didn't come with enough hose and I couldn't get JUST that hose at Home Depot or Ace's hardware. I checked the Plumbing section at both places. It looks just like hose that came on a sink squirter.
I wish I was standing there, I would have this sorted in minutes.
Are you 100% sure that the instructions say to run the “signal hose” for the vacuum bypass from that fitting? I have NEVER seen a bypass valve actuated Pre-compressor, only post-compressor.
Unhook the bypass valve “signal” hose. In what position does the valve default? Open or closed?
No worries, I'm good. I can tell how everything is hooked up.carp, i misread. You want 3 individual pics. gimme a minute
G
Fuel lines are made to keep pressure from blowing out not the other way around. Most fuel lines are not rated for vauum. You can always double check with the manufacturer. The setup that comes on the Whipple has an inner hard plastic linner to prevent the "radiator" line from collapsing. Its an option but a trade off. Long stretches of line will be most susceptable. Get the engine bay hot and squeeze the line. You will see just how flimsy it gets when hot.Ok, I did write on the pics again. Kinda feel queer for it, but you guys are helping me so it's the best I can do. Do you think that fuel line would collapse? If you look close at it you can see braid underneath the rubber. And I went and looked at the lines after [email protected]'s comment and they don't look to be collapsed or kinked. I WAS gonna use that line that came with the kit but it didn't come with enough hose and I couldn't get JUST that hose at Home Depot or Ace's hardware. I checked the Plumbing section at both places. It looks just like hose that came on a sink squirter.
G
I am 100% positively certain that is the correct hook-up. The cover page of the manual shows it that way. Another guys rig is that way. Actually your not even supposed to touch that thing according to the manual. I wish you were closer, I'd be there. Do you still need me to check the bypass valve?Are you 100% sure that the instructions say to run the “signal hose” for the vacuum bypass from that fitting? I have NEVER seen a bypass valve actuated Pre-compressor, only post-compressor.
Unhook the bypass valve “signal” hose. In what position does the valve default? Open or closed?
[email protected]'ll run it up and get the engine warm and give it a check.
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