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Discussion Starter #1
cooling issue
so my mustang has been running hot since i bought it about a year ago. ive replaced the thermostat 180* water pump and rad. there are no leaks but i also burn alot of oil. the two are not mixing but the other day i blew a rad hose and fixed it on the side of the road and filled it with water. the next day i drained it and refilled with 50/50 but the water looked dirty as **** any thoughts?

lifter tick?
i decide to replace my spark plugs today i had put motocraft in when i bought it due to a misfire and it ran fine... till i was on the high way and i blew out a plug. driver side closest to the fire wall. but it didnt strip out i just put the plug back in and it was fine (i did have to gap the plug because it was touching) hence my decision to replace them. i bought ngk g power gapped them to .52-.54 and torqued them to 20nm or 14 ftlbs (had no problem with the cyl that blew out) how ever i do have a very loud tick. i cant tell which side but def top. it does go away after a min or two of idle but comes back randomly especially if i rev it (i havent driven it) any idea what it is or how to find out? im going to try gumout engine cleaner tomorrow or fri (i won a free bottle in a give away i got second place first was free product for life... so close but i cant complain)

Pi swap?
i have pi head that id like to put in especially if ^ is a big issue. i need to get the intake manifold for the pi head but will everything bolt up to it aside from the coolant temp sensor (i can drill and tap np) also do i get head gaskets for pi motor or npi motor? i assume npi but id just like a second opinion


these are just a few of the long list my gt needs fri im doing the powersteering pump again... ac bypass pulley ordering the last of the 3 parking brake cables as well as the trans mount and dust shield for the clutch fork. i just put a spec stage 1 clutch in feels great but incredibly stiff i also put an adjustable clutch cable in maybe that needs adjusting anyone else done this? im sure im forgetting a few thing but thanks anyway
 

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I give up. What Model year Mustang are we dealing with? I;m going to assume this is a 96-98 MY.

How are you determining that the motor is running hot? Just the dash gauge?

My advice.

Do not perform a PI head swap on a motor that's over heating and has a tick from an unknown source. Wait until the source is known before moving forward. This advice goes DOUBLE if the motor is burning oil.

Do not install a lower temperature T-stat in an effort to solve an over heating issue. Find out WHY the temperature is too high and fix the real problem.

Just for giggles and grins, check the local prices for a WHOLE salvage motor in your area. Look at a 2001+ Town Car, Grand Marquis, or Crown Vic. You may find it almost as easy to install a whole "newer" PI motor than to repair what you have. Check car-part.com or LKQ to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
97 gt
i can tell the car is hot not only by the dash gauge but i can pop the hood and feel it. also i blew a rad hose...

i replace the thermostat, water pump, and rad all at once in an attempt to fix the overheating as no one can give me an answer as to why its overheating

my best guess is that i have a blown head gasket thats mixing a little bit on oil in to a cyl. its not smoking really bad but it doews have quite a bit of exhaust smoke. low oil would also add to a motor over heating.

i havent even bothered looking for a used motor around here because the one junk yard that lets you go get parts is an ***hole and would charge full price like $3k if i pull the motor. also idk if that motor is any good either so ill just be getting a whole new set of headaches. on top of that its easier to swap heads in your driveway than a whole motor. trust me been there done that.

the reason for this post is to get some ideas on whats broken or not properly working. while i appreciate the response you didnt answer my questions
 

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Have you verifed your high speed fan is working?

Have you done a compression test to verify a blown head gasket?

Should also do a leak-down test to verify where your oil is seaping into the combustion chamber.

Are there any codes being thrown by the computer?

Do not use the guage as a reference for the ECT, plug in an OBD2 scanner see what the temp is at the ECM. Our mustang guages are idiot guages at best.

Another questions that should be answered...Do you have any coolant leaks that you can see?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fan is wired to a switch and i never forget to turn it on (ok maybe once but not usually)
i plan on doing a compression and leak down test i just dont have the tools yet and my parts store doesnt rent them but hey new tools :)
i used to have a bluetooth obd2 scanner but i lost it however a while back when i did have it said something like 200-212* and threw a code for the evap sys

i do still have a cel air bag light and brake light... *sigh*
like i said long list of things to do

and no there are no coolant leaks that i can see
 

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Assuming you turn your high speed on fan, and assuming your new radiator is not clogged, and your thermo is opening properly, then I would first verify the actual tempature of the coolant before thinking it's hot via OBD2 scanner...If it is in fact running hot, then my second notion is to think a blocked coolant passage, either in the block or the hoses (if you have a blown head gasket I would put money on a block passage near where the head gasket is blown). Again, it is needs to be confirmed whether the head gasket is blown or not.

After all that, I'm kind of at a loss...if your coolant is circulatings properly, fan is colling the collant in the raditor, and the thermostat is opening allowing hot collant out and cold coolant in, then I'm not sure.

I did not see that you replaced your ECT sensors, may be a good idea to do that too (at the least the one near the passenger side head, since that is the one sending the ECT to the ECM).

I would recommend to you to make sure there is no air in the system but the 4.6Ls cooling system self-purges so...air "shouldn't" be in the system..key word"shouldn't"...
 

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Ticking can be any number of things. Hard to tell not being there listening in person. I would double check torque on the spark plugs (especially the one that blew out). Do you have an automotive stethoscope? That will help narrow down where it is coming from exactly. could be bad lifter/s, bad lash asdjuster/s, exhaust leak, etc...
 

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Don't forget about your heater core. You could loop the lines and bypass it or just take the lines off and run a water hose through one port and see how it flows.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
lashes and rockers seem fine theres no play in them and i cranked the motor with the valve covers off and didnt see an issue. also tested each spark plug and wire and those are all good. i did notice that my driver side valve cover is disintegrating tho... like the fiberglass is breaking apart so im not sure what to make of that. maybe a piece of that is causing an issue somewhere

as far as the heater core both hoses into the fire wall get hot and the heat works great lol
 

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Sounds like a head gasket. As far as the ticking is concerned it could be a issue with the timing, it could be exhaust manifold leaking as these are common leaks on these cars. I would put a new timing kit in the car when it is all apart. It is worth it in the long run to have the new parts. As far as the head gaskets to buy question the 4.6 block is the same. The gaskets will be the same regardless of what NPI or PI heads you use. Good luck and keep us posted to your progress.
 
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