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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I will go with some sort of drag radial in the future but for now I will prolly just opt for the SFC and control arms.

Ok now heres my question. Do I need both upper and lower control arms or are just the lower good enough? I read in a magazine or something somewhere that the lower is all that really helps with the drag racing. I dont want any adjustable ones cause I dont plan on getting that serious with that stuff. Plus I dont want to accidentally adjust one side to far then the other side not far enough or something and end up screwing something up. I saw in the UPR ads that they have Pro-Street Chrome Moly Control Arm Kit. Uppers for $100 and lowers for $130. SO just make sure I am sure of this. They are just as good if they arent adjustable right? I mean the ones that are stationary aren't lower quality or anything just becuase they arent adjustable right?

And as for the SFCs, Full lengths are better than just standard lengths right? WHat are good brands of those? The zinc full lengths are the ones Im looking at right now.
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=131

As for the lowering stuff. I want it a little lower but not much, like 1.5" max. I found the Eibach Pro-kit on the UPR site for $219 and it advertises 1.3-1.6" lowering. That will work great I think. So they really do drop those amounts right? Also when lowering just that much am I gonna need a bump steer kit or the caster camber plates or different shocks and struts and what not. I mean its not like Im slamming it or anything so. And if I do need new shocks and struts which ones will work with the lowering kit and also perform well on the street and just as good on the strip?

Ok so the set-up I have in my mind is the Eiback pro kit9for the 1.3-1.6 drop), the zinc plates steeda SFCs, and the UPR pro street upper and lower C/As. Does this sound like a good combo. Also, like I said, will I need the caster camber stuff or the bump steer stuff or different shocks and struts and what not?
 

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I can't vouch for the other stuff, but the Eibach Pro-Kit is what it says it is. I have it on my car and looks great. And you will not be needing and caster/camber plates or anything like that. From what I have heard, once you hit 2", you will start needing all that.:drink:
 

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hey man i have a pair of bbk springs that in summit go for 230$ if you want to you pay shipping and ill sell them to you for $100, brand new condition and everything if you want pictures let me know
 

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i have H&R SS Springs and i love them...the only problem is that the drop in front is low and i needed to add C/C plates....the drop with the Eibach Pro Kit is not drastic and you should be fine without the plates.......Steeda or Maximum Motorsports full length SFC are a great choice as well....there are different types of Upper and Lower Control Arms and unless you have a serious track car, you are fine with the non adjustable.....UPR makes great stuff but i think it is more for 1/4 mile drag racing......Steeda also makes killer Aluminum Control Arms but i think that these are more auto-X or road racing oriented and are also pretty damn expensive.........u are good with your stock shocks/struts......the setup you are looking to purchase sounds good
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I also found a set of Steeda Sport springs. They give between 1-1.25" of drop. ANd stangsuspension.com says its their most sold and most recommended lowering spring kit. It gives the best all around performance for the street and track and what not. So I can either go with Eibach for $219 plus shipping or Steeda for $229 free shipping and get pretty close to the same drop. Which kit do yall think is the better kit??
 

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those are both well know names in the industry.......Steeda makes great products for street and road racing......i would probably go with the Steedas....let us know what u decide on
 

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I just ordered the Eibach pro-kit Saturday, shipped from Brothers in Cali. yesterday. Brothers has the pro-kits for our cars on sale right now, I think it was like $225 to my door. 87 if you want to wait, I'll take some before and after pics for ya and post em'. I'm gonna install them the day they come, so I could probably post them by Friday or Saturday!!! Oh yea, if any of you guys could give me any tips on making the install easier, I'm all ears. My buddy is gonna bring his spring compressor over, is that the only special tool that I need? Thanks for any info you can offer!!:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sweet that would be sweet if you could post up some pics. ANd make sure you do a little bit of measuring first too. Like from the ground to the fender before and after to see if it is actually what is advertised.
 

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LOL, that was kinda funny. Will do though, as soon as I get them on!! See ya'.
 

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Oh, does anyone have any tips for replacing the springs that would make the install any easier. Don't really wanna try it if I'm gonna "F" it up!:doh: It this a pretty easy upgrade for the do it yourselfer or would it be better to take it to a pro? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks to all!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I'm not trying my $hit myself, plus you gotta get your alignment close so you can drive it to the alignment shop. Yeah I heard its kind of a biotch to change so its not gonna be me doing it.
 

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Got 'em On!!!!

Aight 87, I got my pro kit on last night. I'm tellin ya', this is the kit to go with.

Details: Distance from top of fenderwell to ground in front before was 28 1/4 inchs, and after was 27 1/4. In back before was 28 1/2 and after was 27 1/2. So I netted a one inch drop, remember this is on brand new springs, after a couple hundred miles it should drop another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Even just that inch made a world of difference though. Judge for yourself by the pics, but I am thrilled. Plus Brothers has them on sale now, $225 shipped. These are the before pics and I'll post again with the afters. Enjoy!:thumbsup
 

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I just have a few after pics, but here they are. Oh, and the install was a pain in the ass. Especially on the front, had to pull the caliper, drop the sway bar, drop the a-arm. It took about 3 hours to finish but that was with a half hour beer and pizza break. One guy did most of the work too. All in all great experience and I'm very pleased. OK enough talk here the afters, I take more in the couple weeks when they are completly broke in! Peace!;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sweet thats a sweet arse ride. I done saved the pics to my pc so I can check it out over and over again. lol But do you think the springs will settle at all after a little time cause I almost think I could settle for it being a half inch lower. Especially since they are 1.5" drop rated springs and all :smoke:

Oh yeah, you said the front was a sob to do but what about the back??? Do you think its something I could easily do one night and get all the rear stuff installed and all then drive it to the shop and have them do all the front stuff with no problem. I dont wanna have to do all that taking crap off stuff. Id rather just unbolt, remove, replace, rebolt, remove jack stands. So basically what Im asking is, was the back easy? And what all would I need to do it???
 

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Yea, the back wasn't bad. Granted there were three of us, but it only took about 45 minutes. Just remove the wheels, jack it up and put jack stands under each side(under the frame rails) so your rearend can drop. You will need spring compressors, it also makes it easier if you pull the the bottom shock bolt. Compress the spring, push down on the axle to get clearence, pull the spring out. No need to compress the new ones, they are short enough, just push the axle down and put the new one in. Then put everything back together. The front would take about three paragraphs to explain, but it's definitly doable if you have a buddy and the tools. Yes the car should settle more, everyone I talked to has agreed. I would check again, but my car is in the stereo shop gettin' hooked up. I will check in a couple days when I get it back and get it aligned. Good luck!!:drink:
 

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Yeah, I have the Eibach Pro-Kit on mine and had it on there for about 3 or 4 months...It definitely settles in more after you ride on it for a while:thumbup Looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok first question for either of you, sweet or spazzy, did you have to get the c/c/ plates to make it work right? Do you have new shocks and struts for lowered cars and if not, do you think that might actually help get the car to settle even lower.

And the second question is for spazzy, the tires you have, how much are they. I am looking at some chrome 03 cobra rims and I was gonna go 17x9, up front and 17x10.5 out back and I saw you have those sizes on your car but the black bullet style. And I was looking at getting some 245 45 R17 and 315 35 R17s but I really dont wanna spend a ton of cash on them if you know what I mean. But I saw you had both sizes and wheels and tires and all so I figured I'd ask :thumbsup
 

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87, except for the springs, all of my suspension is stock. Not sure, but I've heard that shocks, springs and c/c plates aren't necessary with the drop you get from the pro-kit. I've also heard that theres not alot of adjustments you can make with the c/c plates on our cars anyway. If you want more drop, go with the sportlines. With those you may want to think about the rest of your suspension. I can't chime in to much because I've only drove my car about thirty miles with the new springs, it's been in the stereo shop all week. I should get it back late tonight. I still haven't even got it aligned yet. I have a car show tomorrow, I'll take some more pics for ya'.
Later,
sweet01gt
 

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87_5point0 said:
Ok first question for either of you, sweet or spazzy, did you have to get the c/c/ plates to make it work right? Do you have new shocks and struts for lowered cars and if not, do you think that might actually help get the car to settle even lower.

And the second question is for spazzy, the tires you have, how much are they. I am looking at some chrome 03 cobra rims and I was gonna go 17x9, up front and 17x10.5 out back and I saw you have those sizes on your car but the black bullet style. And I was looking at getting some 245 45 R17 and 315 35 R17s but I really dont wanna spend a ton of cash on them if you know what I mean. But I saw you had both sizes and wheels and tires and all so I figured I'd ask :thumbsup
Nah, only thing I have that is different for my suspension are the springs. It isn't necessary to do the other things with this drop.

The tires I have are Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's. These are AMAZING tires. I have never experienced a daily-driven tire that has this amount of traction (dry or rain...rain especially).. I would actually recommend using a wider tire up front given your wheel width. I am using the 245's with an 8 inch wheel. But if you move up in size, then you have the chance of having your front tire taller than your rear and that just looks stupid in my books. But beware, these tires are expensive. The fronts were about $240 a piece or something in that range, and the rears were over $300 a piece. You can still get this size in tires for a lot cheaper price (Sumitomo would be a good choice). Anyway, hope this cleared some things up for you.;)
 
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