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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

I have a 66 inline 6. I bought a vaporizer 1100 from pony carbs about 2 years ago. i sent the carb to them about a month ago because of a massive leak do to a crack. They replaced the entire top part and car fires up great when its a cold start. However if i turn it off and attempt to turn it on again it wont... I thought maybe the gas might be flooding because i noticed a small leak toward the bottom of the carb.

so i dismounted the carb pumped the gas out, let it sit. then adjusted the lean/ rich screw. re-mounted, and it started up, no leak... however as soon as i turned it off and attempt to turn it on again it wouldnt. it sounds like maybe it might be flooded because i have had that problem before, but even if i tighten the fuel distribution screw all the way down or play with the adjustments it has no effect?

i can see a bit of white smoke exiting the carb top when i press the accelerator, also i have been trying to contact pony carbs but maybe someone might have an idea? it ran perfect before so i dont believe its the timing, or anything. just pure carb problem. Please help Im a college kid and need my daily driver!
 

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It sounds like the gas in the bowl is boiling, causing your car to not start (vapor lock). This is common and often hotly debated in the various Mustang/ old car forums. My '66 will do the same thing. Runs great, starts great, but if I let her sit a few minutes with a hot engine, it takes a lot of cranking and black smoke to get her going again. Very embarrassing, as I feel like I drive an old jalopy.

The cure (if indeed this is the problem) is to add a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake, which reduces the speed at which the heat from the engine can soak the carb and cause this condition.

Others are sure to weigh in on this. Personally, I don't have the phenolic spacer on my '66 yet since I am waiting to see how my intake/PCV spacer/4100 all pans out before I do anything else.

Some people say it's the ethanol blended into the gasoline, which has a boiling point of 172F, and this could be. Gasoline today is complicated blend (benzene, octane, pentane, heptane, blah blah blah) that I don't know what specifically causes the apparent lower boiling point of today's fuel.

Bear in mind 2 things: 99% of cars today use high pressure fuel injection, and vapor lock is no longer an issue, so the lower boiling point doesn't apply to them, and 2) something must be different than 45 years ago; I doubt everyone put up with this back then.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks so much, I did see a few threads and posts about a vapor lock issue when i searched for posts with similar problems. My only question is why did i never have this issue before? ive had the car 3 years, and this new carb for 2 years. Only until the rebuilt on the carb a month ago now i have this issue. can u maybe post a link to the spacer? because i know there are different gap sizes and not sure which exactly i need. I will try it i need to get on the road ASAP! haha thanks for all the help again.
 

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Well for the 200, aside from the heater hose aluminum spacer, I don't remember seeing a phenolic spacer (yet I'm not looking for one since I don't have that particular engine!). I would give a call to CJ Pony Parts, and NPD and Mustangs Unlimited, and see what they have to say. Also there are a couple of I6 performance parts suppliers out there as well; Clifford Performance is one of them. For sure if the regular Mustang parts houses don't come through, then the I6 performance guys will.

I'm really curious now why you never had this problem before but seem to now. Interesting.
 

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Never seen a phenolic spacer for that carb. The hot water spacer controls temp at the carb, heating and cooling effect. Vapor lock means not getting fuel. If you think it's flooding, I would suspect float level, or you still have a hairline crack internally. Pony is susposed to be good, but I have been running across a few negative threads on them. No personal experience with them. Out of my price range.
 

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Ditto on the float level, I have read if you shut off the car and peer into the throat and see fuel dripping down, then the problem is flooding. Completely forgot to mention that. It seems if I set my float at the correct wet level with the float gauge, the car tends to surge a bit on the highway, so I set it ever so slightly higher to stop the surging. I wonder if I have it just a bit too high and I am flooding my carb as well.
 
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