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805_siccwidditt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Yooo whats up guys?!?
I'm hoping that this site is active and someone will help me out,

So I have a 1994 Mustang V6, it has bad cataylic converters I was told after my mechanic plugged in his scanner. (He didn't tell me any codes)

So I decided to try and do it my self, due to me being 17 years old , broke as a joke .

I just received the manual in the mail today, & I just ordered a code scanner also.

I'm going to order a cataylic converter very soon, but bottom line is how do I take me old one out? It's connected to my muffler, & I'm not sure if I should mess with the o2 sensors or not? Or the negative from battery.? The manual just told me to go take it to a shop -.-

I have so much more problems with this car, but I'll get to them later, lol thanks!!
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
1994 Mustang Cataylic Converter

Yooo whats up?!

I have a 1994 Mustang, V6 .

It has bad cataylic converters, Horrible, made my car shut down on the off ramp -.-

But I was wondering,, it has 2 Pre Cataylic Converters , & than 2 Main cataylic converters. (4 altogether)

I realized that it would be a lot cheaper if I just bought 2 cataylic converters direct fit for it, so I'm wondering if my car really needs 4?

Thanks!
 
This is a job for the muffler shop if you don't have a way to weld them in. You might consider a used set off of a wreck. Have you been under the car to look at them? It's all one piece that's welded together.
 
Being in California (Nazi Emissions Land), you will need all 4 cats all in the factory location. Also, I agree with the above post, it is not for a novice, you will need a welder...

Also, are you certain that the cats are bad? Please post the codes that the code reader displays.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
This is a job for the muffler shop if you don't have a way to weld them in. You might consider a used set off of a wreck. Have you been under the car to look at them? It's all one piece that's welded together.
Actually I don't need a welder, I'm planning on buying a direct fit cataylic converter. Direct fit means it's already welded together, no cutting or welding needs to be done. Just a few bolts..
Here's an example: Magnaflow DF Converter for 1994 1995 Ford Mustang 3 8L Tier 1 Direct Fit 441108 | eBay

My mustang has one on literally just like this.

Thanks for the quik replies!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Being in California (Nazi Emissions Land), you will need all 4 cats all in the factory location. Also, I agree with the above post, it is not for a novice, you will need a welder...

Also, are you certain that the cats are bad? Please post the codes that the code reader displays.
I don't have the codes at the moment.. I just ordered a scanner yesterday, hopefully it comes quik! Than I'll give u the codes.

I don't need a welder or need to cut anything, my mustang has a direct fit cataylic converter thing, I do have pictures but idk how to put them on here... Nothing is welded , it's just bolt on to the muffler, and I believe the headers?
Thanks for the quik reply!
 
So is the part you bought the part in the link you posted above?

EDIT: That part is actually called the "mid-pipe"...one thing to note is that that part is not 50-state legal...only 49...

Also, to replace it, is not necessarily hard, but not easy either. You need jack/jackstands, extensions, etc...search youtube on Mustang midpipe install and you will be able to find detailed how-tos on how to replace it.
 
You said you were going to order A converter, not all of the converters. If you were replacing A converter you would have to cut it out and weld A new one in. When you are replacing the assembly you don't have to cut and weld anything. I've had mine out several times. It's no big deal as long as you have enough room under the car to work. You will need some deep sockets. I don't remember what size they are, but I think they are 14mm or 15mm. You will also need about 15 inches of extensions.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
You said you were going to order A converter, not all of the converters. If you were replacing A converter you would have to cut it out and weld A new one in. When you are replacing the assembly you don't have to cut and weld anything. I've had mine out several times. It's no big deal as long as you have enough room under the car to work. You will need some deep sockets. I don't remember what size they are, but I think they are 14mm or 15mm. You will also need about 15 inches of extensions.
Thanks to both you, ! Well I disconnected the cataylic converter & the muffler, so now the muffler's just hanging, & the cataylic converter still has the two pipes going up, connected to the headers..

It hard to reach those bolts though,, and when I unscrewed the bolts connecting the muffler and cataylic converter I unplugged the o2 sensors , & tried starting my car, it didn't start. So I connected the o2 sensors back and tried to start and now it can't even start 1 bit, also if the key is in but engine off the battery dies now,,, what did I do?-.- it used to start, my point is was I supposed to disconnect the -negative battery wire before I disconnected the o2 sensors, I only disconnect the back 2
 
You should disconnected the battery first, then began work on the car. If you kept the key in the on-position without starting then yes that would drain the battery (not sure how long that would take).

The rear O2 sensors do not affect driveability or starting of the car so I'm unsure why it wouldn't start assuming all else is ok with the car.

Replace your cat-converter, get everything bolted back up, recharge your battery and see if it starts...

You mentioned some other stuff was wrong with the car, so finish one project then move on to the other...seems as though too much is going at this point for anyone on here to be of much assistance.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
You should disconnected the battery first, then began work on the car. If you kept the key in the on-position without starting then yes that would drain the battery (not sure how long that would take).

The rear O2 sensors do not affect driveability or starting of the car so I'm unsure why it wouldn't start assuming all else is ok with the car.

Replace your cat-converter, get everything bolted back up, recharge your battery and see if it starts...

You mentioned some other stuff was wrong with the car, so finish one project then move on to the other...seems as though too much is going at this point for anyone on here to be of much assistance.
Yah I'm just going to replace the cataylic converter and hope it runs good... Do you know anything about a blown head gasket?
How do I know if I blew my head gasket or a crack in the block?
 
A blown head gasket can be diagnosed by doing a compression test. If 2 cylinders side-by-side show low compression it's most likely a blown head gasket. Are you losing coolant at a steady pace with no coolant leaks? Possibly a blown head gasket as well.....
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
A blown head gasket can be diagnosed by doing a compression test. If 2 cylinders side-by-side show low compression it's most likely a blown head gasket. Are you losing coolant at a steady pace with no coolant leaks? Possibly a blown head gasket as well.....
My old mechanic just did a 'block test' on it, he told me it is a blown head gasket, can a 'block test' determine if it's a blown head gasket & a cracked block?

After he did the block test I ended up stop talking to him, he got mad at me for changing my mind.

But yah he told me it's a blown head gasket, I noticed I can order the 'head gasket set' for 75$ and than I the bolts for 15$

What else do I need to fix the blown head gasket?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
My old mechanic just did a 'block test' on it, he told me it is a blown head gasket, can a 'block test' determine if it's a blown head gasket & a cracked block?

After he did the block test I ended up stop talking to him, he got mad at me for changing my mind.

But yah he told me it's a blown head gasket, I noticed I can order the 'head gasket set' for 75$ and than I the bolts for 15$

What else do I need to fix the blown head gasket?


& I'm pretty sure coolent is mixed with the oil, or something is mixing with it, i checked the dip stick and there 3 more inches wet, over the max level, it's like a creamy light colored. I guess maybe like very light coffe?
 
If you have coolant in the oil DO NOT try to start it. Coolant in the oil will wipe out the bearings and then you are looking at a complete rebuild. Coolant in the exhaust could also cause problems with the cats. Remove all of the spark plugs and look at them. If you have one or two that are cleaner than the others that is a sign of coolant in the cylinder. Could be a head gasket or a cracked head or cylinder. There isn't much way to figure out which one it is without disassembling the top of the engine.

When you remove the spark plugs don't get them mixed up. That way you can tell which cylinders have a problem.
 
^ good advice, big_gear_head...follow his advice, OP. Good luck!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
If you have coolant in the oil DO NOT try to start it. Coolant in the oil will wipe out the bearings and then you are looking at a complete rebuild. Coolant in the exhaust could also cause problems with the cats. Remove all of the spark plugs and look at them. If you have one or two that are cleaner than the others that is a sign of coolant in the cylinder. Could be a head gasket or a cracked head or cylinder. There isn't much way to figure out which one it is without disassembling the top of the engine.

When you remove the spark plugs don't get them mixed up. That way you can tell which cylinders have a problem.
Ok, I'll check em out tommarow, thanks!

Do I have to unplug the -negative battery wire, anything else?
 
To check the plugs you do not need to unplug the battery...
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
If you have coolant in the oil DO NOT try to start it. Coolant in the oil will wipe out the bearings and then you are looking at a complete rebuild. Coolant in the exhaust could also cause problems with the cats. Remove all of the spark plugs and look at them. If you have one or two that are cleaner than the others that is a sign of coolant in the cylinder. Could be a head gasket or a cracked head or cylinder. There isn't much way to figure out which one it is without disassembling the top of the engine.

When you remove the spark plugs don't get them mixed up. That way you can tell which cylinders have a problem.
Hey, can you check out this video on youtube?
This is not my video but it's the exact sound that my car makes when I try starting it, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_zL9MBZJp3Q

Please
 
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