Welcome to the forums! Car pulls to the right huh? I don't remember my car pulling to the right under acceleration. I remember my car sliding left and right under full throttle, but that's different. Front wheel drive cars have torque steer. Rear wheel drive cars do not. I would start with an alignment. As far as suspension mods go....you should be able to identify what it is you don't like what your car is doing and then fixing that problem will be easier once problem is identified. The entire suspension should be built around the tires your gonna run; the wider the better to a point. The best thing you can do is to find a track near you, goto that website, look at the calendar events and find a track day instructional school. Seat time, Hooked on Driving...etc. Go out there and learn your car in an environment that would allow you to do things that would be considered utterly reckless and insane on the street. Your car is going to be a beast(read as "handfull") with all that power and stock everything else. Depending on the track layout, you are probably gonna find a defficiency in brakes. The one mod I would suggest right now that is only going to help in every situation and couldn't possibly be a bad purchase would be a better UCA (upper control arm) and even some LCA's (lower control arms). I say it's a no-harm no-foul purchase because if your suspension is bone stock then wheel hop is likely a problem. That is super bad for your car. Super bad. Massive shock loads over and over and over. You can mitigate that with better shocks, but the fact that the LCA's and UCA that I would recommend don't bind and thus do not increase wheel rate. J&M street extreme series joints in both flavors : LCA's and UCA.
1-alignment and tire psi
2-Seat time
2-LCA's and UCA(optional, not a must. If you have wheel hop, gettem')
3-start evaluating what needs to be changed and why
Don't change spring rates or dampers until you are on the rubber you want to run because if you buy a set of springs and dampers and everything feels pretty good and then you go buy say 285-40-18's for all 4 corners with some "Extreme Performance Summer" tire grade rubber, your car will grip more. When it grips more it dips more and if it dips too far you hit the bumpstops. When it hits the bumpstops your wheel rate goes through the flippin' roof and you will immediately lose traction on that tire if a lateral load is on it. That's when you increase spring rate. To stay off the stops and also to keep your car in the "good" geometries. All your geometries that matter travel around with supsension movement. Stiffer springs help that, but too high a stiffness and your rubber now feels like glass. One other thing, a car that tries to be two things will compromise both. Yes you can have a street car that is tolerable on the street yet better on the track, but it will not be as good as a dedicated track car. A track car on the street will not be happy. You will not be happy. The car will hate you and you will hate the car. If you're like the vast majority of folks, including myself, you want both. It's just not realistic. You will have to decide what is tolerable and what is not. There is something to be said for a car that you daily drive that you can just drive onto a race track and seriously sweat down cars it shouldn't. Driver mod will play a massive factor in that though. It's the most important factor of all IMO. There are some business' out there that I would recommend out there too for suspension: Cortex Racing and Maximum Motorsports. I think they are both great and either of them can help you fine tune your car.
