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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have been a member for awhile but have never posted. I am currently in progress of a turbo swap and just have a couple of questions to make sure I'm on the right path. Any help would be MUCH appreciated. The mustang is a 1989 n/a 2.3l and the motor is from a 1987 turbo coupe. I have installed the 8.8 rear end from it, installed a cobra master cylinder with a 3-2 port conversion with an adjustable proportioning valve. I have done this with preparation of the turbo swap ahead. I have just removed the motor this past Sunday and I am currently cleaning up the engine bay, sanding, and repainting all the surfaces. I would like the total job to look good since I have everything out this would be a great time. I have a rebuilt motor from the 1987 turbo coupe that I will be using which has a reground crank, cam, new oil pump, bearings, valve seals, and all that good stuff. I have sold the old 1987 coupe and I kept the following: Upper intake, lower intake, oil pan, vam, electronic boost control solenoid, intercooler, vam pigtail (I hope), E6 manifold, a computer from an 1987 Automatic turbo coupe and a 88 computer from a 1988 standard turbo coupe. I asking the community here to please guide me as to what I am missing or I need to use. I understand I am to use the mustang upper and lower intake manifolds, mustang oil pan, turbo coupe vam pigtail, and a computer but does it matter which one I use? Are they both LA3 computers? I am using an already fully rebuilt A4LD with all new hard parts as well. Also some say to use the Egr and some say not to use it. I am also using an 255lph fuel pump but what adjustable pressure regulator should I use? I also have no oil feed or return lines what do I do? I have found a Mitsubishi Starion intercooler but my technician at work says I could have his old 2004 SRT-4 intercooler. Which one should I use or how about the Volvo or Isuzu NPR intercooler and if so what year? Should I rotate my intake and how? I have three upper and lower sets. I know I have alot of questions and I appreciate any help anyone can give me. It's pretty much what you guys say I will install. I have documented the motor pull via video and plan to do so for the entire job. One last thing, I need a TURBO! :)

-Roy

CAUTION:THIS VEHICLE MAKES FREQUENT BURNOUTS
STAY BACK 200 FT.
 

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Ok, let me see if I can assist.....

1. Look up STINGER and he has a procedure to convert to just what you are doing.
2. The LA series is for a manual trans car. The LB is for an auto. The 2 or 3 after LA or LB is just a series difference which is unnoticable.
3. Oil feed you can get from forced4.com. The return you should get from a PARTS NEEDED forum at turboford.com. DO NOT get the Max PSI line, as it has been known to constrict the return of oil and let it back up into the turbo thus go into the exhaust.
4. Intercooler.......go with what you want. It all depends on what you are willing to work with.
 

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Basically everything NavySVO said!

Here are excellent step by step instructions on how to do the swap (disregard the part that says '85 Mustangs)........................

Turbo Coupe Motor Swap for 85 Mustangs

Although either would work, just use the TC manifolds.
Mustang oil pan.
TC VAM & splice in the pigtail.
Computer from the '87 TC Auto.
Not sure of smog laws in Texas but there's virtually no power loss with the EGR functioning properly.
Here's your AFPR.........
Kirban Performance 1986-93 Mustang and Thunderbird Turbo Adjustable Fuel Regulator
Oil feed from Stinger or Forced4.
Oil return line from TF (if you can find one).
Turbo from TF (although they seem scarce right now). I have an extra T3, I'll send you a PM.

Go with the Starion I/C. You have it, may as well use it.
Really no need to rotate the intake. It's more for asthetic reasons and ease of I/C installation.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

I appreciate the replies. I have just ordered to adjustable fuel pressure regulator from the site you recommended. Does anyone know if 5.0 tubular k-members will work with 2.3s? Also there are a lot of companies that make boost gauges, who has accurate and dependable ones? Lastly, ho can I get a 140mph gauge plate to read correctly when I have the 85mph now? Thank you in advance. -Roy
 

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I doubt a 5.0 K-member would work 'cause the motor mounts are attached and 5.0 & 2.3 mounts are completely different.

Autometer makes quality boost gauges.

Not sure about the 140 mph speedo. I know it can be done though, guys put them in Mustangs and TC's all the time. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller??:happyhapp
 

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the k member will work, i know lots of guys the removed the 2.3 and droped in the 5.0 , although in doing a 2.3 to 5.0 swap and using the 5.0 k member . they look the same for the mount holes. big G:bigthumbsup
 

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just so you know the 8.8 posi is 5/8 of a inch longer in a t- bird so mustang axles won't fit in it ( my friend tried putting hardend mustang axles in his, there too long) and i had a 7.5 axle from a 85 t-bird in my 88 ou could see the tires stuck out a tad further than they should, but i loved that car after i stuck it in there, i just couldn't get rid of wheel hop, the quad shock mounts on a t bird are mounted too far forward, at least they were on mine. just giving a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Question

:wavey
Hey guys, I'm installing the pulleys, accessories, manifolds, and I had a question about the distributor. Once I "stab" it in, what do I need to do either before or during to make sure I will be set when I need to adjust my timing? What do you guys recommend I do? The motor is rebuilt and I'm just piecing it back together. Thank you in advance!
 

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On the 140 mph speedometer just get one out of a non air bag car to match yours. Just use the speedometer only it will read correctly no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gauge-

I have found one from an 87-89 5.0. Will everything plug up just fine? Any new speedo gears needed? Thanks for the previous post.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
-Oil cooler-

Would anyone know where to find the cooler that is sandwiched between the block and the oil filter? I have one but there is quite a bit of rust scale inside. Any thoughts let me know.
:racer:
 

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I probably got a extra one of the oil cooler. On the 140 speedometer. Just need the speedometer section only. Remove it from the 5.0 gauge unit and remove yours and swap. Don't use the 5.0 gauge unit. Tach is setup for a v-8. No wiring involved at all. No gear changes unless you change tire size or rearend gear ratio. Sorry best picture of mine I got.
 

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try here. new and used.
Performance Parts, Inc.
13120 Lazy Glen Court
Oak Hill, VA 20171-2326

703 742-6207
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What kind of bits have you guys used to do some porting of the E6 manifold and upper and lower intakes? Anyone know where to get them. I have a Sutherlands, Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace hardware down here. Sears? Let me know what you think.
 

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:wavey
Hey guys, I'm installing the pulleys, accessories, manifolds, and I had a question about the distributor. Once I "stab" it in, what do I need to do either before or during to make sure I will be set when I need to adjust my timing? What do you guys recommend I do? The motor is rebuilt and I'm just piecing it back together. Thank you in advance!
It's critical that you get your cam timing set correctly before dropping in the distributor. Here's a writeup on how to set cam timing..........................
CAM TIMING

What kind of bits have you guys used to do some porting of the E6 manifold and upper and lower intakes? Anyone know where to get them. I have a Sutherlands, Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace hardware down here. Sears? Let me know what you think.
These are the ones I used when porting my E6...................
Carbide burrs on Ebay

The intakes are aluminum and will just clog up the double fluted burrs although I heard if you keep a piece of cast iron handy you can grind it against the cast iron and that'll clean it. Ideally you need single fluted burrs to port on aluminum.

Joe Mondello has bags of cartridge rolls fairly cheap. His website is listed in my E6 porting guide below. The guide may be helpful to you also......................
E6 Porting Guide
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I appreciate the feedback. I have some coming and I cannot wait to get them in. Let me throw this question out there. I installed the TC 8.8 rear end with the 3.73s out back. Is this good gearing? I want the car to pull hard yet be well on my daily drives to work and back. I'm using a fully rebuilt A4LD with 225/55R16 Proxes out back. Also, when the vehicle was running I had to reverse a bit to the both tires to lock up. Someone has told me the clutches are worn. I have to switch gears, what ratio should I use and who should I get a rebuild from. I want the whole rebuild including the outer seals, axle bearings, crush sleeve or c-clip, everything. I am willing to do this right but just would like someones take who has been there before I have. Thanks fellas!:shigrin
 

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I installed the TC 8.8 rear end with the 3.73s out back. Is this good gearing? I want the car to pull hard yet be well on my daily drives to work and back. I'm using a fully rebuilt A4LD with 225/55R16 Proxes out back. Also, when the vehicle was running I had to reverse a bit to the both tires to lock up. Someone has told me the clutches are worn. I have to switch gears, what ratio should I use and who should I get a rebuild from. I want the whole rebuild including the outer seals, axle bearings, crush sleeve or c-clip, everything. I am willing to do this right but just would like someones take who has been there before I have. Thanks fellas!:shigrin
3.73's are the stock rear gears for an auto. Should be just fine. Not sure about the clutches. You should probably talk to a reputable shop and get their opinion if it's the clutches, or not. Before I installed the 8.8 in Thunderstang, I dragged the whole rearend into a local shop and they installed a new pinion seal, new Timken axle bearings and seals for $100. I bought new C-clips at the Ford dealer and installed them myself when I swapped out the TC axles for the Mustang axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Evintho. That is what I would like to do. I now the T-bird rear end is longer but is that from say stud to stud or just the outside of the axle tube housing? If this will work then what year mustang should I use for parts? Has anyone heard of using the 93 Cobra or SVO e-brake cables for the hand brake?:headscratch:
 

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The TC 8.8 housing and the Mustang 7.5 housings are the exact same length. It's the 8.8 axles that are longer. If you want the stock Mustang track width just pull out the TC axles and replace them with the Mustang axles. They slide right in. The only bad part is if you want to retain the TC disc brakes you'll need to purchase offset caliper brackets ($150 from Northracecars.com).

Concerning the E-brake, you'll need the 2 cables from Ford Motorsports part # M-2809-A.

I did my rearend swap using this website..................
Fox 4-lug brake upgrade
They also sell the appropriate brakeline adapter ($10) that you'll need to adapt the TC brakelines.

The bottom third of my cardomain page has the details on my rearend swap........................
Thunderstang
 
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