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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a set of Cobra front control arms, which are sworn to be a drastic improvement over the GT ones. We'll see in a couple weeks when I get around to putting them on, along with the new caster camber plates.

So I've got a set of brand new in the box X2 balljoints and poly bushings for a GT if anyone's been looking for a set for cheap.

Coming next month:
 

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that steeda k member looks pretty BA if i do say so myself. much beefier than those tubular Q-whatevers you see running around.
 

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let us know how the control arms work out I cant decide if I want to start adding power or susp mods to my stang (leaning towards susp) maybe exhaust too with suspension :bigthumbsup
 

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and bullitt, are you swapping over to coilovers? or keeping your vogtland/bilstein setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm keeping the Vogtland/Bilstein/Koni setup that's on it now. The Steeda allows you to keep the stock control arms, but they have different settings for the lower control arms to improve roll center on lowered cars, which is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's what I'm hoping. I'm ready to go do some autocross, but my front end is still not right. These and the Kenny Brown caster camber plates should get everything where it needs to be for me to go racing!!!!!

My K Member still isn't straight in the car, I haven't gotten under it and fixed it yet so hopefully this will get me motivated to crawl under there and hang the plumbobs and start measuring and get it all straightened out.
 

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ball joints

sounds good i may just do that i will be going out of town this weekend but could possibly do it next weekend if you still have them i will get back with you. oh and btw i had asked you a ? a couple days ago about my swap dont think i got a response. but im doing a 5 spd swap in my 97 auto gt jw i know i will have to change tranny harness and pcm but do i have to do the key and ignition switch also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sounds good i may just do that i will be going out of town this weekend but could possibly do it next weekend if you still have them i will get back with you. oh and btw i had asked you a ? a couple days ago about my swap dont think i got a response. but im doing a 5 spd swap in my 97 auto gt jw i know i will have to change tranny harness and pcm but do i have to do the key and ignition switch also.
Sorry man, I get bombarded with PMs, so sometimes they get overlooked.

Anytime you change the PCM, you have to swap everything that is connected with the PATS system, which includes the gauge cluster, the key and ignition switch and the PCM. There's a couple ways of going about it though. You can either swap all these out of the car the PCM came out of, you can disable the PATS through a custom tune, or you can have Ford reprogram the PATS after the swap. Not sure how much Ford charges to do so though.
 

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its cool yeah thats what i heard but i have got some different answers but i have everything i need in the wrecked car and i was going to change the cluster out anyways because has less miles and white gauges. JUst wanted to get your opinion i dont know much about mustangs right now i was a chevy honda guy but have always wanted a stang (dream car for sound). also i just got 4:10s what else do i need to do to make my speedo right i think the t45 if im right doesnt have gears it sends it electroniclly if thats the case do you just tune it and i also hear everyone talking about tuners whats the best to get. sorry for all the ?s
 

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Discussion Starter #11
An SCT handheld tuner can take care of all those issues.

There are 2 great tuners in Benson that will take care of you. Big Wood Racing and Fastlane Motorsports. I know a lot of people who use BWR and are always satisfied.
 

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you are definately paying a pretty penny for that k-member, but i'm still jealous. Looks like i'll still be going witha tubular one....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did my research, and dollar vs. benefit analysis..........lol

The Steeda is expensive by itself, but allows you to keep standard springs. It's also beefy enough for me to feel OK about driving it everyday, and road racing and autocrossing it. The standard tubulars, except for the MM one did not give me that warm and fuzzy feeling. Once you add in coil overs and A Arms for the ones that will handle the abuse easily, you're well over the price of the Steeda, pretty much double the price. Then narrow it down to what will use standard springs instead of coilovers, and you're left with 3 choices:

The AJE, QA1 and Steeda. The AJE is a good piece, but after you add in all the extra stuff, it ends up being close in price to the Steeda without all the adjustability. The QA1 just isn't beefy enough for me to get that warm and fuzzy feeling on the street and autocross track, and I don't want any doubt in my mind. So after all that comparison, the Steeda isn't so expensive afterall........:bigthumbsup
 

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If i had a steady job i'd probably sink the money on one to, but at this point I just need one as a factory replacement for working around those long tubes I put on my car. In your case since you actually road race and all that I don't blame you for getting the beefier one.
 
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