Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i finally decided to get my nitrous set up, i decided to go with the ZEX wet kit 100 shot. Before i actually get the kit i want to get anything else i might need that doesnt come with the ZEX kit, which im getting from AM, things like a window switch, purge kit, injectors/fuel rails/fuel pump ANYTHING i will need to run the 100 shot SAFELY!!!!!!! And i also want a list of other things like guages and other accesories i will need to monitor and control everything

I plan on running these switches with the kit so any input on how to wire these up would be greatly appreciated
3 Switch Mustang Nitrous Control Panel (99-04) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

This would be my frst time running nitrous so i want to run it as safely as possible, i am going to get a dyno tune after the nitrous is hooked up


Thanks guys!!!!!!

BTW a have about 3500K-4K to spend and i plan on spraying ONLY at the track
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Well they say anytime you shoot over 75 you should really have a tune on the motor. I'm not N20 experienced but that seems to be the consensus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Zex Nitrous Kit
-Purge
-Heater
-Window Switch
-Tune

I'd bump up your injectors as well.. Maybe go to 30lb injectors
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What about my fuel pump should i upgrade that aswell? and i am planing on getting a dyno tune before i spray for the first time!

Does anybody know what the zex kit already comes with, does it already include the wot switch or not?:headscratch:

Any input on what guages i will need?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Window switch (MSD 8969 needs no tach adapter and is digital) set for 3500 on and 6000 off, bottle warmer and a purge. The purge is not really necessary as you can purge through the motor. Run 1 step colder plugs NGK TR6 at .035 gap.

You do not need bigger injectors, unless it's a dry kit. Unless you have upped the timing on your stock tune (handheld performance tune or custom chip), you can probably run without a tune for 100 shot. My first nitrous kit was the NX plate kit. I ran that on the 100 shot for awhile on the stock tune. Had a straight 12.5:1 A/F ratio with the stock tune.

When I upped to the 150 shot, I invested in a focus pump. It didn't fix the lean spike problem I was having, so I bought a KB Boost-a-pump. No more lean spike issues after installing the BAP.
I ran the 150 shot on the stock bottom end for awhile, but eventually went forged. Keep it at 150 shot or less, forged or not. I had puddling issues when going to a bigger shot. That is why I bought the NOSzle direct port kit earlier this year.

For gauges I run an LC-1 wideband w/ DB gauge for A/F ratio and a dynotune digital nitrous pressure gauge. It comes with a remote sensor, so you can install it easily, without running braided line. It's way better than looking at a tiny little gauge on the bottle.

You can see pictures of my entire setup here - Plate kit to direct port kit pics - Corral Forums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Window switch (MSD 8969 needs no tach adapter and is digital) set for 3500 on and 6000 off, bottle warmer and a purge. The purge is not really necessary as you can purge through the motor. Run 1 step colder plugs NGK TR6 at .035 gap.

You do not need bigger injectors, unless it's a dry kit. Unless you have upped the timing on your stock tune (handheld performance tune or custom chip), you can probably run without a tune for 100 shot. My first nitrous kit was the NX plate kit. I ran that on the 100 shot for awhile on the stock tune. Had a straight 12.5:1 A/F ratio with the stock tune.

When I upped to the 150 shot, I invested in a focus pump. It didn't fix the lean spike problem I was having, so I bought a KB Boost-a-pump. No more lean spike issues after installing the BAP.
I ran the 150 shot on the stock bottom end for awhile, but eventually went forged. Keep it at 150 shot or less, forged or not. I had puddling issues when going to a bigger shot. That is why I bought the NOSzle direct port kit earlier this year.

For gauges I run an LC-1 wideband w/ DB gauge for A/F ratio and a dynotune digital nitrous pressure gauge. It comes with a remote sensor, so you can install it easily, without running braided line. It's way better than looking at a tiny little gauge on the bottle.

You can see pictures of my entire setup here - Plate kit to direct port kit pics - Corral Forums
Wow nice set up! is it possible to hook up the bottle heater to the 3 switch bezel i plan on getting by idk splicing it in somehow?

What is the difference between the NOS direct port kit and the zex DPS kit? there both "direct port" kits right?

I plan on getting the zex kit but would a kit like this one be better?
96-04 NITROUS KIT, NOSZLE DIRECT PORT SYSTEM, 4.6L 2V - 100-300 HP ADJUSTABLE MUSTANG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Yes, just follow the instructions for the bottle heater install. Dynotunenitrous sells a high output one for $120. Very nice quality, with good instructions.

No, your kit (after looking at it) is a single nozzle kit.

It is one of three types of kits available. A nozzle kit plumbs in your air intake. There is nothing wrong with this kit for moderate power levels, 100-150hp.

The second type of kit is a plate kit. It just sandwiches a plate with a spraybar, in between your upper plenum and lower intake. This will get slightly better atomization of the fuel and nitrous, as it is spraying closer to the intake ports.

The third type of kit is direct port. It is usually hard plumbed, by drilling an intake and inserting nozzles for each cylinder. In the case of the NOSzle kit, it sandwiches in between your lower intake manifold injector ports and injectors. This allows for individual cylinder nitrous/fuel spray. It has the best atomization and has no risk of fuel puddling at higher power levels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
You must have edited your msg while I was typing, or I just missed the last little bit.

The noszle kit is better if you're wanting to go to higher HP shot down the line. For someone who is wanting to spray 100-150 shot, a single nozzle or plate kit is just as good.

It just so happens I'm selling my kit as a conversion kit, in the classifieds section. In your case, I don't think it's necessary. Just a note to those interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I deffenetly dont plan on going over a 100 shot, so maybe ill just stick with the zex kit since you its just as good, only thing i am worried about with the zex is puddling. Do you think that is going to be an issue for me, i dont want my intake to blow up! Is there anything i can do to prevent puddling? any kind of mods or products or anything like that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Yes and no. It's better in that you can spray a much bigger shot, without risk of fuel puddling. Aside from that it's really just the same thing. If you're not looking to spray 175+, then it doesn't have any real benefit over a nozzle or plate kit. As long as you spray above 3000rpm, at WOT only, and are spraying 150hp or less. You shouldn't have puddling issues with the nozzle or plate kit, either. I recommend setting the on point to 3500. You never drop much below 4000rpm on a shift (with bigger gears) anyway, so there is no real point in spraying at 3000rpm.

I will say this one thing. I'm not a fan of Zex kits. If I were looking to spray up to a max of 150, I would go for the NX Plate kit all over again. They can be had for $550 new, depending on what place you buy them from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is that NX kit a wet kit or dry? or does it matter since its a plate system? i would prefer a wet kit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Haha, you edited your last post, so the beginning of my last reply looks totally out of context.

The plate kit is a wet kit. A dry kit sprays nitrous only and a wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous. Puddling only happens with wet kits, but it can be avoided. Like I mentioned above, pick up an MSD 8969 window switch and set the on point to 3500 and off to 6000. You will have no nitrous backfire/puddling issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,907 Posts
Don't forget to drop a heat range on spark plugs and get a 180F thermostat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,329 Posts
With any nitrous you should get a tune, its silly not to and can get real expensive. The zex kit is a real good one, and depending on which one you got, it should come with most of what you need, but definitely get a tune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so i think i have the list together now tell me if this is correct

-zex nitrous kit(obviously)
-purge kit
-bottle heater
-colder plugs
-bigger injectors
-maybe a fuel pump(in case it runs too lean)
-window switch
-A/F ratio guage
-nitrous pressure guage
-180* thermostat
Now i think thats everything if i missed something please let me know!!!

I have just two more questions(for now lol)
1. is the msd window switch a whole lot better than the zex window switch? just trying to learn a little bit more about the products and my options
2. My second question is how many of you run a safety blow down kit? how "necessary" are they or is it just a good idea to get one?:headscratch:

Thanks for all the helo guys!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Forgot to add the tune to the list
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Scratch on the injectors. You're using a wet kit, so you don't need bigger injectors. The fuel solenoid provides all the extra fuel necessary.

Your stock pump is more than capable of providing fuel for 100 shot. The problem with the returnless fuel system, is going momentarily lean upon activation. When the fuel solenoid opens, it drains the fuel rails and it takes a split second for the computer to realize this and ramp up the speed/voltage on the fuel pump. That's how a returnless fuel system works. It varys the voltage and speed of the pump, for more or less fuel as needed.

I tried a Focus pump and that never fixed the lean spike I was seeing when the kit activated. It is definitely better than the stock pump, but it will not fix the lean spike issue. I put in a 20 amp Kenne Bell boost-a-pump and it got rid of my lean spike issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So scratch the injectors and the pump and just go with the KB BAP?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
You could honestly stick with the stock pump, no focus pump or BAP. For 100-125 shot, you're going to be fine.

Also, one last thing. I would suggest a 125 shot with your Zex kit. Zex and NOS both rate their kits at the flywheel, not rear wheel. A 125 shot with your kit will put out about 100rwhp. A 100hp Zex shot will only produce 75-80rwhp. It's just my opinion, but that's a waste of time.

With 100hp NX shot, which is rated at the rear wheels, I was able to run a best of 11.88. The other mods were bolt-ons, gears, minor weight reduction and slicks and skinnies (15" welds). In street trim I ran pretty consistently at 12.20's, on 17" stock rims with ET streets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I thought the most you can run on these stock engines was 100 shot? not sure but thats what iv been reading:headscratch:

Also can i still use my predator with nitrous(and the dyno tune of course) or would it be better to switch to a chip like the sct instead of a hand held tuner?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top