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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, i am new here but have had my stang for 6 years or so.
two yrs ago i got into a front end colision. the bass started cutting in and out, then one day nothin, gone.
since then i have been running with no bass, really anoying.

could it be my deck, amp. i checked the fuses, ok.
any info would be great. also, the locations of the amps, they are not in the truck lid.

any way, my car is a 96 gt tripple black convertable, mods so far are, under drive pulleys, upper intake plenum, msd ign coils wires, ngk plugs, mac true cold air set up, motor has all new seals and gaskets. installed a ford racing clutch with ford racing fly wheel, 40 chamber flow master cat back sys, moroso deep sump oil pan, royal purple oils, new energy suspension engine mounts, tranny mounts. installed a saleen body kit. had to modify the strut bar brace to fit with new engine set up, bullet gt foot peddles, steeda short shifter,
all new o2 sensors, powder calipars.
hand made superman symbol in frt where horse goes polished.
new top and rear window( have it need to install it ).

i beleive thats about it for now, i am looking into my cost for the suspension next, not i a hury to do so, enjoying it now.
heading out to the all ford nationals in PA this friday, so maybe i see some thing there.

look forward to your replys, and thanks for having me here.
later.
 

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Hey man,

The collision probably has nothing to do with the sound quality of your car audio. Do you have an aftermarket headunit in it? If you don't, perhaps the speakers are shot and need to be replaced. If you DO have an aftermarket headunit, odds are that you have the polarity backwards on the speakers. You mentioned amp so I'm guessing you do have an aftermarket unit. I would start with making sure the polarity is correct on the speakers. If it's backwards, the driver/cone will get sucked/pulled in to the magnet instead of being pushed out, giving you a hollow sound with little to no bass.

Other then that, if you are playing music through an aux in and mp3 player, you'll get lower quality audio because mp3's if they aren't ripped at a high quality bit rate (and even when they are), they can have a hollow sound especially when played through an ipod. It depends on the encoding software, the source of the mp3 and the bitrate, but the bottom line is you'll never get as good a sound quality as you do when playing cds.

Just experiment with the speaker connections, play a song and listen to the sound quality as is then reverse the speaker wire on the terminals of the speaker and compare. Once you do that you can usually tell right away if it's right or not. Good luck.

It makes no sense that bass would cut in and out. Maybe the speakers are toast. can you visually inspect them to check the speaker surrounds aren't rotten? It's just a type of rubber styrofoam that surrounds and supports the outer perimeter of the speaker so that it allows the cone to move while still insulating the speaker. They rot and crack and crumble away with age and use. It'll be an easy fix, it just needs some simple investigating.

Even a damaged speaker can still work intermittently, so maybe it's the speaker itself, you'll figure it out.
 

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Hey man,

The collision probably has nothing to do with the sound quality of your car audio. Do you have an aftermarket headunit in it? If you don't, perhaps the speakers are shot and need to be replaced. If you DO have an aftermarket headunit, odds are that you have the polarity backwards on the speakers. You mentioned amp so I'm guessing you do have an aftermarket unit. I would start with making sure the polarity is correct on the speakers. If it's backwards, the driver/cone will get sucked in to the magnet instead of being pushed out, giving you a hollow sound with little to no bass.

Other then that, if you are playing music through an aux in and mp3 player, you'll get lower quality audio because mp3's if they aren't ripped at a high quality bit rate (and even when they are), they can have a hollow sound especially when played through an ipod. It depends on the encoding software, the source of the mp3 and the bitrate, but the bottom line is you'll never get as good a sound quality as you do when playing cds.

Just experiment with the speaker connections, play a song and listen to the sound quality as is then reverse the speaker wire on the terminals of the speaker and compare. Once you do that you can usually tell right away if it's right or not. Good luck.

It makes no sense that bass would cut in and out. Maybe the speakers are toast. can you visually inspect them to check the speaker surrounds aren't rotten? It's just a type of rubber styrofoam that surrounds and supports the outer perimeter of the speaker so that it allows the cone to move while still insulating the speaker. They rot and crack and crumble away with age and use. It'll be an easy fix, it just needs some simple investigating.
I agree with this. If you do decide to check the styrofoam I'd go ahead and replace it with some Dynamat. Also, if you have your amp hooked to to your factory stereo through an integration module (like mine), I'd check the wires on your radio wiring harness. If they're hooked up right, I'd try a new radio. If your radio is aftermarket, check your speaker wires AND your left and right signal wires that are on the back of the h/u
 

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Dynamat is sound deadening insulation, it can't be used to repair a damaged speaker cone. There's the woofer itself, and then on the outside rim of the speaker itself there's a rubber like foam that is glued to the cone and then it's glued or fastened to the frame of the speaker. Over time this rubber lip dries out and cracks and I've seen it actually disintegrate when you touch it. Although it can be repaired by buying new foam, for the cost of a decent speaker you're better off just turfing it right in the garbage and buying a new speaker altogether.
 

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Dynamat is sound deadening insulation, it can't be used to repair a damaged speaker cone. There's the woofer itself, and then on the outside rim of the speaker itself there's a rubber like foam that is glued to the cone and then it's glued or fastened to the frame of the speaker. Over time this rubber lip dries out and cracks and I've seen it actually disintegrate when you touch it. Although it can be repaired by buying new foam, for the cost of a decent speaker you're better off just turfing it right in the garbage and buying a new speaker altogether.
Aw yeah I know what you're talking about now. My bad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks,

thanks guys for the quik reply's.
but i need to get more info to you.
the car has a stock mach 460 sys in it.
the speakers are fine, all i have is trebble in the sound, lots of volume, if i put the trebble down and bass all the way up, it changes nothing in the sound, just makes the trebble sound less crisp. absolutly no bass in the sound. cd or radio.
the amps are stock, theres one for the frt tweeters and mids and two for the rest ( so i am told ). i was told there are in the truck, not in mine. then was told under the rear seat are two amps and one behind the deck. i just want to make sure that thats where they are before i remove any thing.
the bass was fine ( as far as i can remember ) before the misshap.

i hope this clears things up, i really would like to find the problem.
fuse under hood and drivers side pannel are ok, maybe theres another one.
thanks again,
later.
 

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it could be a ground or other wire for the amps. Or the impact/shock damaged the internal components of the amp itself. You can look on ebay for a used factory amp. I'm not sure how to test the factory amp on that unit, but do some more reading by searching your issue in google. The best thing to do is fix it properly, don't do what the "lesser intelligent" people do and hack the system up! I'm sure if you took the unit out and took it somewhere they could test it for you. Good luck!

I think one thing you could do is take a tester and see if the amps are at least getting power! If they are then odds are they are faulty and need replaced.

There's a boatload of threads re: mach 460 no bass. I'm sure if you skim through the garbage you will find something useful.

I did find the wiring diagram if that is of any use:

http://www.bullittarchive.com/7029.htm

Another good idea to at least determine if the problem lies within the amps is to swap it for one that works, if you know a friend that has one that works in his/her car who might be willing to swap it just to test it and see. Or call Ford and ask if they have a means of testing it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks dynobrat, sound advice.
would you know where the amps are and how many there are?
i don't have a sub in the truck, two tweeters up frt and two door speakers. two rear quarter speakers.

the problem with my car is that it is the first yr of the 4.6L in mustangs. on top of that half way through the yr they switched the wiring, sound sys and other things as well. so when you look for component placements ( sound sys for eg. ), all info says that amps are in the truck, and that there is subs in the back. which mine does not. what i have found on the internet says that there might be amps under the rear seat, and one behind the deck. but i have not found any confermation on this, so i just don't want to start ripping every thing aprt to find out that there is no amp there.
i will keep trying to find info, but soon i will just have to start to find out my self.

thanks for the reply.
later.
 

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Great to have you here , enjoy the site :yup:
 

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From what I understand your car if unchanged from factory, has 3 amps. 2 in the rear, and one under the headunit. The one under the headunit power the tweeters, 1 rear powers front door midbass, 2nd rear powers rear midbass. They did change to a 2 amp setup and I think that was 1998, but I am just going by what I searched on, so you should have 3. I believe to access the rear amps involves folding down the rear seats.

Just do some digging around. If it was a frontal impact it's really hard to say where the problem lies. Test the amps first as that should be the easiest. Electrical issues can be very time consuming and alot of times it does involve the process of elimination. Patience will be your only reward on your path to success.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks dynobratt,

just what i wanted to hear, knowing where the amps are will be very help full.
i just got back from Carile PA, ford nationals. so now i will have time to do some work to the car, i have to remove the rear seats to install the new top, so the interior will be all aprt as well. I also bought new suspension for the car so i have alot to do. any way thanks again for the info, helps out alot.
thanks.
later.
 
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