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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to get my 2013 GT inspected in NY. I can't get the o2 monitor and o2 heater to ready status. Everything else is ready. I've done the drive cycle thing more than I'd like. It all started last fall. The inspection place said it failed because 2 monitors weren't ready. I normally take the battery out during the winter and store the car. I put less than 300 miles last year due to crappy weather and driving a 2 year old around. Put it away last year knowing it needed those monitors set figuring it was just matter of resetting the pcm and driving it.

I've now put 400 miles on it in 2 weeks and also reloaded the stock tune from the Ford racing one, which shouldn't turn off anything and I've had it on since I bought the car new. Also performed a pcm capacitance reset as well. That's where you disconnect the battery and jump the two terminals together for 30min or so. Live data shows the o2 sensors are working just fine. Long term fuel trim looks a little lean to me but that could be normal. Car runs great.

Any suggestions? I'm reluctant to use the dealer. They don't know much and will just start throwing parts at it on my dime.
 

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My battery died this winter due to not starting or driving my 2013. I had to purchase a battery minder/charger and when it reconditioned the battery my BlueDriver was saying that the O2 sensor and O2 heater were no up to reporting as good. It took several cycles of starting, driving and turning off to get it to pass the SMOG ready on the BlueDriver. Driving mileage is not the key, it is start stop cycles.
 

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I'd have to guess that you're talking about your O2 sensors. Some of them have a heater circuit in them that helps bring them up to operating temperature quicker. You have 4 and should get a diagnostic code for the correct bank (right or left) and upstream/downstream (before or after the cat converter). Replacing the defective ones might, I repeat might, get you to pass smog (unless the rich/lean mixture that caused the sensor failure is bad enough to kill new sensors).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry. I thought it was pretty obvious o2 monitors were correlated to o2 sensors and fuel trim. The sensors are fine. Live data shows them operating correctly. Catylist monitor is ready which won't turn on without the o2(s) working right. I guess more drive cycles are in order. I hate NY.

Only 11k Miles on the car.
 

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Gotta love NY! Had the same issue last winter after disconnecting the battery. Went a month and a half past inspection b/c the O2 wouldn’t reset. I have a 3” catback and one thing I heard from several sources was the sensor has to reach a certain temp in order to start monitoring. With a free flowing exhaust (or possibly if you’re driving easy) they don’t get up to temp. Once I thought of this, I drove the car like a 16yr old would. Rev it out, keep it at higher rpms if you can, downshift, get on it, anything to get her hot. A couple trips to/from work (120 miles) and they were set! I even drove around with the drive sequence from Ford on my front seat to show any officers when they asked why I was driving up to 40, coast to 20, up to 50 coast to 30 or whatever the hell it was. Ridiculous for sure! If you haven’t yet, give it a try. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah ha! This makes sense! I put on borla over axle pipes 2 years ago. My exhaust is a 3" JBA h-pipe, the borla over axle pipes and gt500s. I was told to drive it easy. I will beat it like it owes me money. That's fun anyway. It would be easier if the ambient temperature was > 80.
 

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hmmm, yeah you might be onto something with the temperature thing . . . if you were only driving for a short time before the test, they might not have gotten up to temperature . . . try a nice long drive, like at least 30 minutes, before the test; and I guess some heavy throttle / high RPM wouldn't hurt
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Driven a couple drive cycles with cat temperature @ 1200+ in 5th gear. 6th gear the cats don't go above 900F. Still show incomplete. Going to try getting them hot and driving the hego cycle in normal drive mode (6th) and not sport (5th). No a/c, no cruise control.

This is ridiculous.
 

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. . . . This is ridiculous.
yeah . . . I find it hard to believe that slightly larger pipes and freer-flowing muffler could make such a big difference to the temps . . . but just so you don't get all tangled up in "illegal aftermarket exhaust modifications" BS, you might need to put the original exhaust back on, and then try it.

If problem is still there, then you can take it to dealer, I'm pretty sure the warranty on emissions-related stuff is practically forever
 

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yeah . . . I find it hard to believe that slightly larger pipes and freer-flowing muffler could make such a big difference to the temps . . . but just so you don't get all tangled up in "illegal aftermarket exhaust modifications" BS, you might need to put the original exhaust back on, and then try it.

If problem is still there, then you can take it to dealer, I'm pretty sure the warranty on emissions-related stuff is practically forever
Like Bert Said, Emissions is 8/80000
 

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jth877,

Keep me posted on how you are making out on this. I am going through the same exact scenario with my car. I keep mine on a battery tender all winter and being eight years old this year I replaced the battery in April and the car hasn't been driven much at due to the crappy weather. Tried getting it inspected and failed due to the O2 and Heated O2 monitors not ready and totally didn't think about it i would have waited to replace to battery! I drove the car 400 miles with no luck in having them cycle and did a PCM reset a week ago and nearly 200 more miles nothing.... I am beyond frustrated the car runs perfect has 19,000 miles, no codes, everything is working as it should. It's about to go to the dealership as I am at a loss with it. Only mod on it is the Borla Atak exhaust and Borla said that wouldn't affect the monitors from running and they recommended me resetting the PCM again so here we are. I just can't imagine the free flowing exhaust has anything to do with it but I can't think of anything else the car has never been tuned and completely original other than the Borla mid-pipes and mufflers.

Good Luck and let me know if you get anywhere. I'm ready to really drive the **** out of it to see if that works. Another reason to leave this godforsaken state!

Tim
 

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Just to give everyone an update on my situation. I reset the PCM drove over 500 miles and still no O2 or heated O2 monitor cycled. Out of pure frustration I took off the Borla Cat back system, which included the X-Pipe, Mid-Pipes and Atak mufflers and reinstalled the complete factory exhaust. Took the car on ta 30 minute drive and both monitors ran and now I can get the vehicle inspected! Certainly the high flowing exhaust was causing the monitors not to run for whatever reason it was I have no idea. Can an aftermarket tune fix this issue? I still have to get the airbag recall done so I don't be reinstalling the Borla exhaust back on until that is done and all OBDII monitors have cycled.
 
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. . . .. I reset the PCM drove over 500 miles and still no O2 or heated O2 monitor cycled. . . . Borla Cat back system, which included the X-Pipe, Mid-Pipes and Atak mufflers and reinstalled the complete factory exhaust. . . . .
thanks for the update, that does seem to defy all logic and mechanical common sense . . .

Just checking -- the Borla "cat back" system is from the catalytic converters back, meaning the factory cats and O2 sensors were in place the whole time? Or does that system remove the catalytic converters and replace them with "off-road" mid-pipe and/or X-pipe?

I doubt it can be corrected with a tune, more often the tunes ARE the problem because they turn off the rear O2 sensors. It might be worth an e-mail to a tuner to explain the issue and ask them (Lito -- [email protected])
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just to give an update. I decided last year with so much going on in my life I just shelved the car for the rest of the summer. Now I'm getting ready to tackle the O2 monitor issue this season. Reading the previous post I will take off my Borla over axle pipes, and maybe the JBA H-pipe- although it did pass with it installed before. Looks like I'll be jacking the back end of the car up 3ft to get the one piece over axle pipes off. That's nerve racking.

The question is whether a custom dyno tune will eliminate this O2 monitor nonsense. Thought?
 

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Just to give an update. I decided last year with so much going on in my life I just shelved the car for the rest of the summer. Now I'm getting ready to tackle the O2 monitor issue this season. Reading the previous post I will take off my Borla over axle pipes, and maybe the JBA H-pipe- although it did pass with it installed before. Looks like I'll be jacking the back end of the car up 3ft to get the one piece over axle pipes off. That's nerve racking.

The question is whether a custom dyno tune will eliminate this O2 monitor nonsense. Thought?
I have a 2012 Mustang GT and had returned everything back to stock, for the purposes of smog, except the Borla cat back exhaust. After driving almost 1,100 miles and replacing rear o2’s in desperation, it still wouldn’t clear. I read some of the comments about reinstalling stock exhaust to clear the o2 and o2 heater sensor monitors. I am the third owner of the car and did not have the luxury of reinstalling the stock exhaust. So I tried driving it hard at higher RPMs to get the monitors to clear and was unsuccessful. At this point based upon the previous comments, I came to believe the problem is that the catalytic converters are not getting hot enough at low enough rpm’s for the monitor self test to start. After monitoring the temperatures with a scanner I decided that I needed to create more back pressure. At that point I took it to an exhaust shop and had him install a plate with a hole in it, in each pipe. After about 75 miles of driving in 2 separate drive cycle attempts, the monitors cleared. From that point I easily passed smog, had the restrictor plates removed and everything’s fine. Hopefully this helps someone that is dealing with this problem.
 

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I have a 2012 Mustang GT and had returned everything back to stock, for the purposes of smog, except the Borla cat back exhaust. After driving almost 1,100 miles and replacing rear o2’s in desperation, it still wouldn’t clear. I read some of the comments about reinstalling stock exhaust to clear the o2 and o2 heater sensor monitors. I am the third owner of the car and did not have the luxury of reinstalling the stock exhaust. So I tried driving it hard at higher RPMs to get the monitors to clear and was unsuccessful. At this point based upon the previous comments, I came to believe the problem is that the catalytic converters are not getting hot enough at low enough rpm’s for the monitor self test to start. After monitoring the temperatures with a scanner I decided that I needed to create more back pressure. At that point I took it to an exhaust shop and had him install a plate with a hole in it, in each pipe. After about 75 miles of driving in 2 separate drive cycle attempts, the monitors cleared. From that point I easily passed smog, had the restrictor plates removed and everything’s fine. Hopefully this helps someone that is dealing with this problem.
Thanks for the information, good that you tracked this problem down and clobbered it. Congrats for that...

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a 2012 Mustang GT and had returned everything back to stock, for the purposes of smog, except the Borla cat back exhaust. After driving almost 1,100 miles and replacing rear o2’s in desperation, it still wouldn’t clear. I read some of the comments about reinstalling stock exhaust to clear the o2 and o2 heater sensor monitors. I am the third owner of the car and did not have the luxury of reinstalling the stock exhaust. So I tried driving it hard at higher RPMs to get the monitors to clear and was unsuccessful. At this point based upon the previous comments, I came to believe the problem is that the catalytic converters are not getting hot enough at low enough rpm’s for the monitor self test to start. After monitoring the temperatures with a scanner I decided that I needed to create more back pressure. At that point I took it to an exhaust shop and had him install a plate with a hole in it, in each pipe. After about 75 miles of driving in 2 separate drive cycle attempts, the monitors cleared. From that point I easily passed smog, had the restrictor plates removed and everything’s fine. Hopefully this helps someone that is dealing with this problem.
I had the same thought! But wasn't sure what to use as a flow restriction. I put back on the stock OA pipes and stil can't get the O2 monitors to set with the FRP procal tune. I cleared the computer last week and reinstalled the stock tune. Driving it around now. Stupid NY only gives you 10 days past registration to get an inspection. You are not allowed any extensions. You have to actually turn your plates back in then re-register the car again the following day to get another 10 day temporary inspection.
 

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777069

This is what I had done at an exhaust shop in each bank. It’s just a piece of metal from exhaust pipe, cut and shaped, then tack welded into place. These plates were put in behind the cat conv. and rear o2.
It’s worth mentioning I have the car back to stock with a stock tune to get this done.
I certainly don’t know all the answers but this is what worked for me.
Now I can put the fun stuff back on and go to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update. Nothing new. I put the stock exhaust back on. Over axle pipes and mufflers. Been driving 2-3 times a week for the last month and O2 monitors still show not ready. Everything is ready. Frustrating.

I hate to use the dealer but that's where it's probably going.
 
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