Occasional Starting Issue (Need Help)

653 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by gdp2001, Jun 5, 2019

BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · May 26, 2019

Good people,
I need some help as I am not as wire savvy as I would like to be.

97 Mustang GT 4.6 SOHC

It will start/run strong as long as it wants, it could be a day or it could be 3 months. Every now and then, when I put the key in and turn the power on I won't even get dash lights or I will have the ding and the dash lights but when I turn it over they go off and there is no crank. Today I had to shake the car and wiggle electronics a bit for almost 2 hours and then it started strong like nothing was wrong with it.

It's like lose my job because I may not be able to get to work roulette.

The battery is only about a year old.
The alternator isn't much older than that.
I recently replaced the Ignition Lock Cylinder and the Ignition Starter Switch.
I recently replaced all spark plugs, all wires and both ignition coils.
I recently replace the fuel pump/sending unit assembly and the fuel filter.
Replaced Canister Purge Solenoid, Canister Purge Valve, vapor canister, and the vacuum hoses that connect them in September.
Replaced brake power booster in March.

The battery cable connectors are clean and tightly on the posts with no corrosion.
The battery is properly anchored into the tray.

The best I can tell, there is some short, loose ground, or weak connection that eventually bounces out of place and prevents the spark.

When it does start, it starts strong and runs off the alternator with full power and no issues and it never dies on me.

Other than just throwing a bunch of new cables and harnesses at it, which I probably cannot afford, I'm a bit stuck.

Any ideas?
Any websites you could point me to?
Thanks

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wmburns

· #2 · May 26, 2019

We need to know IF there's power into fuse I/P #6 and/or #15 when this problem occurs. For this test it's almost required to use a test light in order to "load" the circuit.

Option. If we assume that when the problem occurs there's absolutely no power, then the problem is likely in the engine bay main battery junction box. Again we need to know if there's power coming into the fuses (test light).

This is about getting information to provide direction for future tests.

Here's some more information that can help you to trouble shoot the battery junction box. Trouble shoot the same way as the starter in this example.

If looking for an educated guess, check the bottom of the BJB where the main cable connects to the main stud.

Can't find issue with starter. Tried everything I can think of.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...arter-tried-everything-i-can-think-of.910467/

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

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Travis98146

· #3 · May 26, 2019

If you have battery cables with the poured lead battery ends, sometimes the cable comes loose inside the lead casting. To test the positive cable, connect a test light to the ground post on the battery. Then touch the post with the light, then the clamp with the light and finally pierce the cable insulation with the light. When testing the cable, wiggle the wire to see if you lose power. You can use the same procedure to test the ground cable/clamp.

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BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 26, 2019

Ok. I will definitely acquire a test light, locate those fuses, and check that asap. Thank you for your help so far.

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BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 26, 2019

wmburns said:
We need to know IF there's power into fuse I/P #6 and/or #15 when this problem occurs. For this test it's almost required to use a test light in order to "load" the circuit.

Option. If we assume that when the problem occurs there's absolutely no power, then the problem is likely in the engine bay main battery junction box. Again we need to know if there's power coming into the fuses (test light).

This is about getting information to provide direction for future tests.

Here's some more information that can help you to trouble shoot the battery junction box. Trouble shoot the same way as the starter in this example.

If looking for an educated guess, check the bottom of the BJB where the main cable connects to the main stud.

Can't find issue with starter. Tried everything I can think of.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...arter-tried-everything-i-can-think-of.910467/

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Ok. I will definitely acquire a test light, locate those fuses, and check that asap. Thank you for your help so far.

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BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 26, 2019

wmburns said:
We need to know IF there's power into fuse I/P #6 and/or #15 when this problem occurs. For this test it's almost required to use a test light in order to "load" the circuit.

Option. If we assume that when the problem occurs there's absolutely no power, then the problem is likely in the engine bay main battery junction box. Again we need to know if there's power coming into the fuses (test light).

This is about getting information to provide direction for future tests.

Here's some more information that can help you to trouble shoot the battery junction box. Trouble shoot the same way as the starter in this example.

If looking for an educated guess, check the bottom of the BJB where the main cable connects to the main stud.

Can't find issue with starter. Tried everything I can think of.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...arter-tried-everything-i-can-think-of.910467/

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Ok. I will definitely acquire a test light, locate those fuses, and check that asap. Thank you for your help so far.

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BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 26, 2019

Not sure why that reply repeated itself. Sorry.

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BLAK IICE

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 26, 2019

Travis98146 said:
If you have battery cables with the poured lead battery ends, sometimes the cable comes loose inside the lead casting. To test the positive cable, connect a test light to the ground post on the battery. Then touch the post with the light, then the clamp with the light and finally pierce the cable insulation with the light. When testing the cable, wiggle the wire to see if you lose power. You can use the same procedure to test the ground cable/clamp.

Awesome. Thank you. I will look into this as well.

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driggins

· #9 · Jun 4, 2019

I had a problem something like this. After 3 tows to the dealer and 1K spent the problem turned out to be a bad dealer add-on security system. once removed problem went away. Oh, it cost another 500 to remove the security.

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gdp2001

· #10 · Jun 5, 2019

I had the same symptoms problem turned out to be those pretty red and black replacement battery cable connectors didn't really make good contact. The clamp and its screws after a while cant pass enough current through the connector. I had to file the paint off where the cables touched. I have not had any problem since.

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