In the HP comparrison what other mods were done to the engines? If just the intake will get you in the 326hp range then I'll for sure need 24# injectors with it and the GT40p heads using a 70mm TB and 75mm MAF. Also, Thanks for the info on the swap, we really need it around here. :bigthumbsup
Official Explorer/GT40/Cobra intake thread
ok,maybe one of the mods can make this a sticky..ill work on a explorer gt40/gt40p head thread later
first off,
the differences in the FRPP Cobra intake,Early Explorer Intakes(mostly 1996-1997 and some very early 1998 models),and the later Explorer intakes(late 1998 thru 2000)
Cobra lower-has EGR hole thru center and EGR coolant return line drilled. to eliminate/block off the EGR,from the lower,you need to get 2 pipe plugs,put one in the center EGR hole,and one in the EGR coolant return line. no drilling tapping required for the ACT sensor in runner #5.DONE.
Early Explorer lower(has center hole)- to eliminate the EGR,you'll need to plug the center hole with said pipe plug. EGR coolant return line is not drilled,so you dont need to worry about that. Drilling/tapping of the #5 runner for the ACT will be required. the early Explorer lowers have a boss on the #5 runner for this to be done.
Later Explorer lower(has no center EGR hole),has no EGR coolant return line,still needs #5 runner drilled/tapped for ACT sensor. has no boss cast in for this,but the runner itself can still be tapped,just have to be very careful cuz there is not as much "meat" as the early lowers that have the boss built in
That being said,the ACT sensor can also be relocated to the air inlet tube,a few inches in front of the throttle body,so no drilling would be needed. just pull soem slack in the wires out of the factory harness,and then plug it in. Done.
Installation:
The following modifications must be made for the intakes to bolt up to a 1987-1993 5.0 Mustang.
1. Lower Intake:
The Explorer intake has no hole for the ACT Sensor. You have two options here: Drill and tap a hole for the sensor or relocate the sensor.
You'll have to swap over all related hardware from your stock intake (temp guage sender, and hard coolant lines.)
The lower intake itself doesn't have a return port for the EGR coolant flow, so you again have two options: Drill and tap for a return port or block off the supply port on the coolant lines.
2. Upper Intake:
At the back of the stock intake, there are three vacuum ports (FPR, Emissions, and vacuum tree). At the back of the Explorer intake there are usually only two,but i have seen them come with all different vaccum setups. Use a plastic vacuum T and split one of the ports to feed both the FPR and emissions,or whatever,just as long as all vac lines are hooked up and holding vacuum
Comaprison of intakes on a dyno(they are all roughly the same)
first off,
the differences in the FRPP Cobra intake,Early Explorer Intakes(mostly 1996-1997 and some very early 1998 models),and the later Explorer intakes(late 1998 thru 2000)
Cobra lower-has EGR hole thru center and EGR coolant return line drilled. to eliminate/block off the EGR,from the lower,you need to get 2 pipe plugs,put one in the center EGR hole,and one in the EGR coolant return line. no drilling tapping required for the ACT sensor in runner #5.DONE.
Early Explorer lower(has center hole)- to eliminate the EGR,you'll need to plug the center hole with said pipe plug. EGR coolant return line is not drilled,so you dont need to worry about that. Drilling/tapping of the #5 runner for the ACT will be required. the early Explorer lowers have a boss on the #5 runner for this to be done.
Later Explorer lower(has no center EGR hole),has no EGR coolant return line,still needs #5 runner drilled/tapped for ACT sensor. has no boss cast in for this,but the runner itself can still be tapped,just have to be very careful cuz there is not as much "meat" as the early lowers that have the boss built in
That being said,the ACT sensor can also be relocated to the air inlet tube,a few inches in front of the throttle body,so no drilling would be needed. just pull soem slack in the wires out of the factory harness,and then plug it in. Done.
Installation:
The following modifications must be made for the intakes to bolt up to a 1987-1993 5.0 Mustang.
1. Lower Intake:
The Explorer intake has no hole for the ACT Sensor. You have two options here: Drill and tap a hole for the sensor or relocate the sensor.
You'll have to swap over all related hardware from your stock intake (temp guage sender, and hard coolant lines.)
The lower intake itself doesn't have a return port for the EGR coolant flow, so you again have two options: Drill and tap for a return port or block off the supply port on the coolant lines.
2. Upper Intake:
At the back of the stock intake, there are three vacuum ports (FPR, Emissions, and vacuum tree). At the back of the Explorer intake there are usually only two,but i have seen them come with all different vaccum setups. Use a plastic vacuum T and split one of the ports to feed both the FPR and emissions,or whatever,just as long as all vac lines are hooked up and holding vacuum
Comaprison of intakes on a dyno(they are all roughly the same)
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it may run a bit on the rich side until you get a custom tune,but its better to be rich than poor..i mean lean
you'll be fine,even if you dont throw any juice at it
dont forget about the fuel pump though
i havent upgraded my pump yet, seems to be ok ,,but i have'nt got it out of 2nd gear yet though . havent got tags :so.
. havent got tags :so.
Don't forget about the Explorer 19 pound injectors. For a stockish mustang they are a great upgrade. They are lighter, have a better spraying pattern, and atomizes fuel even better than than the stock mustang injectors. They are a yellow/orange color. I have them on mine which came along with the intake manifold and 65mm TB. It's a performance package that cost me 175 bucks.
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