Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, time for some more parts and service...

How much oil do I need? (Too lazy to look it up...) You with C/F blowers, did you need to add oil after S/C install? What oil is the best for our cars? Someone told me Mobile1 5-20 or 5/10-30 Full Synthetic?

Does anybody else but Steeda have camber plates? Quality?

Anybody on the Eibach shocks? How are they? Any other shocks I should look at, I know there has been a few on here...

Figured I'd throw it out here and then do my research for a change... might save me time since you guys allready did it for me! Right!?! :winks

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
kj_cinci said:
Hi all, time for some more parts and service...

How much oil do I need? (Too lazy to look it up...) You with C/F blowers, did you need to add oil after S/C install? What oil is the best for our cars? Someone told me Mobile1 5-20 or 5/10-30 Full Synthetic?

Does anybody else but Steeda have camber plates? Quality?

Anybody on the Eibach shocks? How are they? Any other shocks I should look at, I know there has been a few on here...

Figured I'd throw it out here and then do my research for a change... might save me time since you guys allready did it for me! Right!?! :winks

Thanks!
Hi Kj,

Lazy? O.K. For an '05 GT you'll need 6 quarts of 5-20 weight motor oil with a factory Ford filter change. Don't buy cheap filters, you are only hurting yourself and your engine's future! Buy Ford OEM filters or premium FRPP racing filters. IMO Mobil 1 is the best full synthetic available.

Save your money, DON'T buy Steeda's very nice fancy billet camber plates for the '05+ Mustangs, you just don't need them at all. H&R has special camber adjusting bolts (as will any well trained and competent alignment shop), for the new '05+ Mustangs and they are cheap too boot. You probably won't need them but if you do H&R's are just as good and much less money to do the same thing as the fancy billet camber plates.

Here is something relavant I just posted on this subject on that other board.

<<
I talked to Eibach directly. They said that the Mustang struts and dampers were not quite available as of 3 weeks ago. BUT, they said to check back at the end of September which is coming up soon.

In my many telephone conversations with various Eibach technical and engineering people I managed to get some good technical information about Eibach's new sport struts and dampers.

First, the Eibach sport struts and dampers are not gas charged, this good for coming to the game with a low price but very bad for performance. Here is why: as a conventional oil damper (non-gas pressurized), strut or shock's piston moves throught the damper's oil it aerates the oil and this creates foam. Foam is bad for dampening because it reduces or removes the strut/damper piston's ability to dampen movement because the piston valves are designed to operate with a non-compressable liquid (oil), air is compressible and this plays havoc with the dampening rates. Obviously this messes up the whole purpose of the strut/damper and makes for inconsistant or worse case no dampening for short periods of time causing loss of control over the wheels and tires. Again, this is obviously a bad situation for a sport strut or damper and bad for handling. A gas pressurized strut/shock prevents oil foaming by applying pressure to the oil with a bladder or piston (separating the oil from the gas), which allows the damper's oil to expand as it heats up leaving no air spaces and minimal chance of the oil foaming up. The result is a much more consistant damper which allows a driver to maintain much better control of the car. Consistancy and feel is key to a driver's ability to inturpret what the car is doing in the middle of a turn. To give you an ide of how important gas charged struts and rear dampers are for a performance car Ford designers originally supplied the '05 Mustang GT's with gas charged struts and rear dampers even though cost was a big issue for the new pony. You should buy gas charged sport struts and dampers for your car, they are much better than convential plain oil dampers.

Second the Eibach sport struts and dampers are not adjustable, have only a fixed valve rate and there is no velocity sensitivty or variable dampening used in the design. This is also a cost cutting move which makes for cheaper shocks that don't work very well under the many different conditions encountered on the street or track. Having adjustable valving using a fixed design is pretty handy for a car used on the street, road course or drag strip. You could drive to the track in confort and when you arrive adjust the damping rates for best control and balance on track. Then when you are finished on track simply turn the dampening rates back down to your street settings and drive home in comfort after a hard day of driving. Life is good with adjustable dampening shocks!


On the question of other struts and dampers the only other high performance struts and dampers available for the s197 cars AFAIK of this date are Tokico's D Spec struts and rear dampers. You can get them for $600 delivered easy. Tokico has been shipping production kits for a few weeks now but they are still somewhat scarce. So you have to ask first!

I have been complaining about the under dampened rear end of my '05 GT once I installed the Eibach ProKit springs for months. I love the way it looks with the Eibach ProKit (low but not stupid low), but hated the way it handled because of the marginal dampening in front and the way too soft valving of the stock OEM Tokico gas shock out back. The rear was almost dangerous!

I had been hammering Steeda, Tokico, Koni, Bilstien, Eibach and H&R with phone calls for months and all I kept getting was the promise of soon for the last 3 months! Finally Steeda said that they had signed off on the valving for the Tokico D Spec struts and dampers for the '05 Mustang GT (Steeda claims to do the development work for Tokico for Mustangs), and that it would only be a few weeks before they went into production and became available. Shortly after I called Tokico directly (they are in SoCal as am I), told them my sad story and how I really needed a set and I got lucky, they had one set available. I said hold on to them and I'll get my guy at JBA to call you. BAM! One day later I got a call and was told that a set of Tokico D spec struts and dampers were waiting for my and to come and get them before they sell them! I picked them up and found that the box was marked as a "sample" kit, needless to say I was a happy camper sample or not!

So I got my Tokico D specs about 4 weeks ago and installed them in time for the drive to Laguna Seca for the Monterey Historic Automobile Races the third week of August. I drove up to Monterey via California Route 1 the whole way from L.A. (actually Santa Barbara), and had a blast! I found a bunch of cars all going to Laguna Seca for the races and we traveled in a fast pack. C5, C6 Porsche Carrera4S, another '05 Mustang GT (a stock car), myself and several other late model higher end european sports cars. The fastest cars in the group were the C5, C6 and my GT. We had the power to pass at will and I was happy to lead (I love this drive and am pretty familiar with the road, I usually get to take this drive several times a year), during many of the most twisty bits without embarrasment as we went blasting up the coast route. I was surprised at the difference between the C5 and C6's capabilities in the tight turns and how fast that new C6 is. I had the measure of the C5 (exhaust, forged BBS rims w/Pilot Sports), in the turns and the straights, but the C6 (chipped, w/Corsa exhaust, forged 3 piece modular wheels and huge tires), was faster in a straight line than my '05 GT but he was very surprised at how hard it was to keep up with me in the twisties with my skinny Nero A/S tires. I told him I like to steer with throttle which you can still do with skinny tires.

These things work GREAT!


>>



Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, thanks, very informative!


Why did the racing boys push for 10W-30 oil? Better for High Performance/Turbo/SC cars... I know Ford is saying 5W-20...

This is from Mobile1's Q&A page:

My question: Because of the federal CAFE mandates to improve gas mileage auto makers have gone to lighter oils. Can a 5W-20 synthetic really provide the same amount of wear protection as a 5W-30 synthetic oil? Have machine tolerances become so exact that they really require a lighter viscosity than a 5W-30?

Answer:Car builders that recommend 5W-20 viscosity oils have tested these oils extensively to ensure that they provide adequate protection of critical engine parts. Our testing has shown that Mobil 1 5W-20 provides excellent wear protection in modern vehicles. Because today’s engines have tighter tolerances – due to improvements in metallurgy and parts-finishing quality, oils with a low film thickness can provide the protection required and at the same time provide fuels economy benefits. Mobil 1 5W-20 is designed for vehicles where a 5W-20 viscosity oil is recommended. Not only does Mobil 1 5W-20 help extend engine life but it also provides exceptional fuel economy as well.

If I get that right and read a bit between the lines the 5W-20 has less protection and was developed for EPA and MPG? The answer never states 5W-20 is required, as asked. 5W-20 "provide adequate protection". "... low film thickness can provide the protection required..." "...5W-20 is designed for vehicles where a 5W-20 viscosity oil is recommended."


We don't have a FRPP dealer close by here... does any Ford dealer have the oil filter? Auto Zone? Or do I need to order one?

Anybody with a SC sharing the oil having to add oil after the install?

Thanks, again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
kj_cinci said:
Wow, thanks, very informative!


Why did the racing boys push for 10W-30 oil? Better for High Performance/Turbo/SC cars... I know Ford is saying 5W-20...

<< BIG SNIPP >>

Thanks, again!
Hi kj,

To better controll viscosity changes of the higher heat anticipated that a racing engine's oil is exposed to. Viscosity is life under high oil temps and the extra viscosity is needed to reduce oil shear due to viscosity loss. But your car is not a race car is it?

If you have a street car, not a race car, drive it on the street and treat it like a street car your car's engine oil needs are going to be very different than the needs of a race car. Race cars get fresh oil every time they're swapped out or rebuilt, they have little need to worry about oil dilution and contaminants. This is the exact opposite of a street car.

Your car is driven cold and hot over and over day in and day out for several months between oil changes. The contaminants are what limit the life span of engine oil. The base oil stock will still provide the same lubrication as when it was new. The problem is that over time (time is also the enemy as the additives fail from oxidation in the crankcase), normal wear particles, unburned fuel, other contaminants build up to levels that the oil's additive package can no longer hold in the oil. This is what damages your engine, the actuall oil stock is still good but you have to flush out all of the perfectly good oil to get rid of all that undesirable junk.

Buy the right weight oil recomended by Ford and you won't have a problem.

Hmm, my Ford dealer has FRPP oil filters on the shelf so I'm just lucky I guess? They really are better filters and have lower pressure drop, a higher bypass volume and more filter area. You can order them in multiples or by the case from FRPP.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks again!

I guess I'll get the 5W-20 then... My car is used everyday in hot and cold so that makes sense... the only racing I do is the occational trip to the strip... I will however be close to double stock power with the S/C install... but again, it's a every day driver with race capabilities...

I'll look for the FRPP filter... What's the part number for it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have been looking high and low on-line for H&R camber adjustment bolts with no luck... can't even find a home page for H&R...?? :dunce:

Also to find a FR oil filter here in Cinci seems hard... which model number is it if I end up ordering it on-line? Just FL1A maybe with the HP added?

Any ideas out there...???

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
kj_cinci said:
I have been looking high and low on-line for H&R camber adjustment bolts with no luck... can't even find a home page for H&R...?? :dunce:

Also to find a FR oil filter here in Cinci seems hard... which model number is it if I end up ordering it on-line? Just FL1A maybe with the HP added?

Any ideas out there...??? Thanks!
The standard Motorcraft oil filter will work just fine.
Very good site about filters http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html


The QA1/Hal shock for the rear is availible, now they need the fronts. If you've never driven a QA1 equipped car, you should.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome sight... funny too he's about to review the filter I ended up with, a $12 K&N Golf filter from AutoZone... That and 6q of Mobile1 5W-20 Full Synthetic oughta keep her happy for a few months!?! :happyhapp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
kj_cinci said:
I have been looking high and low on-line for H&R camber adjustment bolts with no luck... can't even find a home page for H&R...?? :dunce:

Also to find a FR oil filter here in Cinci seems hard... which model number is it if I end up ordering it on-line? Just FL1A maybe with the HP added?

Any ideas out there...???

Thanks!
Hi kj,

I lost the thread and couldn't answer sooner sorry for the delay!

Anywho, the filter you need is here : http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=7567 it's a pretty good filter and has a synthtic filter material for higher flow, a silicon valve to keep dirty oil in the filter and hold oil in the block. Actually the standard Ford FL-820S is also pretty good and may not be that much different internally except for the filter material's capacity to hold contaminants.

Ah, the H&R camber bolts are here: http://hrsprings.com/site/products/triplec.html

Hope I'm not too late!

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks!

I ended up with the K&N Gold which seems to be a very strong filter with the same materials and benefits as the FRPP and other high performance ones...

The H&R aplication guide does not mention the S197...??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
kj_cinci said:
I have been looking high and low on-line for H&R camber adjustment bolts with no luck... can't even find a home page for H&R...?? :dunce:

Also to find a FR oil filter here in Cinci seems hard... which model number is it if I end up ordering it on-line? Just FL1A maybe with the HP added?

Any ideas out there...???

Thanks!
try Champion Ford in Alexandria, Kentucky KJ. they are the only FR place in this area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
005 GT said:
try Champion Ford in Alexandria, Kentucky KJ. they are the only FR place in this area.
Thanks! Will do that next time! Was just wondering if nobody around here had FRPP... Thanks again!
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top