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crazyjj said:
i have 4500 miles on my 05 mustang gt i didnt change the oil yet
when should i change it?
Ford recommends every 5,000 miles, but since this is your first oil change you should have changed it a long time ago due to the metal particles that you have in a new engine breaking in. I would change it ASAP if I were you.
 

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crazyjj said:
i have 4500 miles on my 05 mustang gt i didnt change the oil yet
when should i change it?
What does the manual say?
 

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AMG said:
Ford recommends every 5,000 miles, but since this is your first oil change you should have changed it a long time ago due to the metal particles that you have in a new engine breaking in. I would change it ASAP if I were you.
AMG is 100% correct. I did my first change at 1500 with the standard petroleum-based oil, then at 4000 with Mobil 1 synthetic.

Change that oil ASAP...it is literally the lifeblood of your pony.
 

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Don't get lazy. Read your manual.
 

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i changed my oil at 1000 miles replaced with moble 1 full syn. then did at 4ooo miles with same oil. seems ok . only ? i hav is i had to use 6 qts this normal . manual says 6 .any comments?
 

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Be advised however that since Ford recommends changing it every 5k miles your warranty should not be in jeapardy for not changing it sooner. The recommendation about chainging sooner is a somewhat controversial one. Many on these forums (myself included) believe its prudent to do... I have not, however, seen quantifiable findings returned from Ford, engine manufacturers, or motor oil companies that specifically state it must be done.

I'd recommend you schedule the oil change shortly...
 

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vynle said:
i changed my oil at 1000 miles replaced with moble 1 full syn. then did at 4ooo miles with same oil. seems ok . only ? i hav is i had to use 6 qts this normal . manual says 6 .any comments?
If you change the filter, that is about another quart. Who changes the oil without the filter? some people change the filter every other change. :eyebulge:
 

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When I ordered my car I had my salesman agree to change my oil (that I supply) the day of delivery to full syn. I am also having them flush the trans with full syn before I leave the parking lot as well. Regular oil sux, once u have used full syn you will never turn back to regular oil again. (Especially when u experience the difference in the winter, in colder states.. of course)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i have mercedes slk 32 amg and i use syn oil for it and i have changed the oil twice and syn oil good for 6000 miles i dont know why u guys changed the oil in 1000 or 1500 miles isnt that just spending money for no reason?
 

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Well, since I don't have a dog, now and then as a "treat", I give it an oil filter and enough oil to bring the level back up to the full mark. My car, is my dog.

pcfrisch said:
If you change the filter, that is about another quart. Who changes the oil without the filter? some people change the filter every other change. :eyebulge:
 

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Waxed'05 GT said:
When I ordered my car I had my salesman agree to change my oil (that I supply) the day of delivery to full syn. I am also having them flush the trans with full syn before I leave the parking lot as well. Regular oil sux, once u have used full syn you will never turn back to regular oil again. (Especially when u experience the difference in the winter, in colder states.. of course)
I agree full synthetic is the way to go, no question about that. I was however under the impression that you should put at least a couple thousand miles on it with regular oil so that the rings seat properly? I am confused on this point because I have had several mechanics tell me this yet some new cars come with synthetic right from the factory, I believe chev puts mobile 1 in new vettes. Can anyone clarify when it's best to switch?
 

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Tastyone said:
I agree full synthetic is the way to go, no question about that. I was however under the impression that you should put at least a couple thousand miles on it with regular oil so that the rings seat properly? I am confused on this point because I have had several mechanics tell me this yet some new cars come with synthetic right from the factory, I believe chev puts mobile 1 in new vettes. Can anyone clarify when it's best to switch?
Tasty1, thanks for bringing this up...it IS VERY IMPORTANT to wait at least a thousand miles to change to synthetic for exactly the reason you mention: the resistance incurred by petroleum oil allows the rings to seat properly. Synthetic is "too slippery", and the rings will not seat right if you go to synthetic right off the bat.

Vehicles that come with synthetic from the factory have even tighter tolerances that demand a thin yet slippery oil (i.e. synthetic 5w-20).

Of course, much of this is personal preference and theory, so I'm not saying there is a right way or a wrong way - I'm simply saying that "most" of the folks in the know who I have talked to about this have given these same reasons for choosing this path of break-in and oil types.

There is a whole school of thought on how to break in gasoline engines...some folks baby them, others whomp on them immediately...I subscribe to a philosophy somewhere near the middle of the road - but when I worked at a speed shop, we generally saw favorable results (better compression over time and less cylinder scoring) from putting some strain on the engine early on (within first 50 miles) - and changing the oil frequently after break-in.

No flames please...just MHO...:winks
 

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This is a very worthy discussion. Oil is the life-blood of our engines. The General puts Mobil 1 into the Corvette for only one reason, (it's expensive), and that reason is heat. It lowers the heat at least 5 to 10 degrees. Next, is when you shut your engine off, the temperature rises sharply for 15 minutes. This is called "heat soak". The oil and coolant aren't moving anymore and are hanging around becoming pals with the combustion chambers and exaust ports. And it begins to break down. Synthetic helps avoid this process.
 

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AMG said:
Ford recommends every 5,000 miles, but since this is your first oil change you should have changed it a long time ago due to the metal particles that you have in a new engine breaking in. I would change it ASAP if I were you.
There are no metal particles inside engines anymore. Hence why they don't put special breakin fluids from the factory. The engines come with piston rings set and no metal shards from the first couple thousand miles. And like it was said before, if you are putting in 100% synthetic and changing it every 1k-2k, you are wasting money.
 
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I just turned 1k miles on my pony & was figuring on changing out to a full synthetic at around 1500 or so. As I use a "blend" (durablend if you must know) in my other car (same thing previous owner had it used to) I'm not sure what to get for a full synthetic. I've read "flames" between amsoil & mobil 1 on other boards before, but curious as to what you folks use / recommend. Not having used a full synthetic before, I'm somewhat clueless... =)
 

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I think it would be very hard for the average person to tell the difference between synthetic oil brands. How would you know if one was better or made the engine last longer? Are you going to buy two cars and run different oil in each one and see whitch lasts longer. Probably not. Any synthetic is better than regular oil. Some are a little cheaper or may be harder to get but they all work well. I use valvoline full synthetic racing 20/50 in the T-Bird and in my v-10 superduty valvoline 5/30 in the winter and 10/30 in the summer when I tow. The truck has 83,000 on it and uses close to a quart in 3,000 miles which is pretty much acceptable these days with the low tension rings most new motors have. The 347 in the T-Bird makes close to 1150 hp at the motor and the bearings always look great when I check them. I just changed the oil in the GT at 2500 with regular oil because my first oil change was free at the dealer. I work there and did it myself. Next time at 5,000 it will get synthetic. We also sell Mercedes which is what I work on and they all use Mobil 1 0-40 wt. Some of them use hardly any oil and some burn it like crazy. Is it the oil brand they are using? probably not, it is the piston ring and coating on the cylinder walls causing the problem. It just shows that synthetic oil can't help every engine, it has to be designed right in the first place. You pretty much can't loose no matter which synthetic you choose.
 

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I live in Fleetwood Pa. It's about a half hour from Maple Grove Raceway.
 
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