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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So long story. I rebuilt a 3.8 after a spun baring on a main journal. Take to machinest, crank cant be examined at said shop as they lack the machine to spin the crank. They sent to another shop where they said crank was scored to bad and cant be brought in spec. Ok, so new crank. Throw everything back together blocks good, had heads milled, valves checked, and new seals. New barings, std size as they said the crank they sent was oem....at the time I lacked the tooling to measure the crank properly and took their word of oem size. Ended up moving and life happened car went on back burner. Almost a year goes by. Pulled everything back apart re applied assembly lube and throw it together. Car cranks right up yet sounds valve train sounds like hell and 0 oil pressure at idle when warm. Found collapsed lifter. Replaced entire valve train - cam (because cam looks good) with scorpion 1.73 rockers new length push rods for proper geometry and new hydraulic lifters. Proper 0 lash verify geometry again throw engine back together. Sounds better runs better but still loud, also 4 psi oil pressure at hot idle as verified with mechanical oil gauge. So order new oil pump (did verify old one was within spec after engine died first time) however trying this now. So pull front of engine apart and looking at oil relief valve because gears look good on old oil pump and housing. Look at pressure relief valve and I see this (picture attached) is the pressure relief valve supposed to have a hole between it and the passage next to it? If so any suggestions on why oil pressure would be low at hot idle I'm pulling my hair out. My last guess is pull the entire thing out and check the main bearings now that I have the tools to verify lobe diameter in case the machine shop did not give me an OEM crank.
Please help, I'll answer any questions of details I might of skimmed over.
 

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I haven’t rebuilt one of these engines, so I really don’t know about that notch. However, I would have been very uncomfortable assembling without verification of clearances. Why didn’t you at least check with plastiguage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven’t rebuilt one of these engines, so I really don’t know about that notch. However, I would have been very uncomfortable assembling without verification of clearances. Why didn’t you at least check with plastiguage.
Because I literally had about half a day after getting the crank to get it in the engine, and the engine in the car before leaving for a month of work in vegas and my ex at the time needed something to drive while I was gone.
 

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Because I literally had about half a day after getting the crank to get it in the engine, and the engine in the car before leaving for a month of work in vegas and my ex at the time needed something to drive while I was gone.
I can see the rough-spot you were in, and the time factor putting pressure on you. It is, what it is. I just wondered why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can see the rough-spot you were in, and the time factor putting pressure on you. It is, what it is. I just wondered why.
I pulled it apart again and measured the clearances they were off and I also had the rear cam bearing slightly off indexed so between those two that's what I'm attributing it to. I also after staring at the oil pump for hours have decided there is a small gap in the oil relief valve between it and the next passage it is just a horrible casting so it looks broken. Funny enough even the factory service manual has little mention of it, but I also only possess the 02 f150 manual however there is so little difference between it and the 3.8 that I cant imagine the documentation would be much different in that regard if I had one for the mustang. Sense it needs to come apart and I'd already planned for an m112 I just figured I'd rebuild forged and do it right in one go sense money or time isn't an issue anymore.
 
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