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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, from what i have been hearing, guys who are putting alot of power to the ground in thier new stangs (400+) are snapping these 2 piece driveshafts like toothpicks.

1. does anyone know if there is an aluminum one piece out yet and who makes it?

2. anyone have an inkling as to why the heck ford decided to put in a two piece shaft? i mean, the more U-joints the weaker, and i dont see the need for additional flex in the driveline? :eyebulge:
 

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The two piece driveline reduces "driveline shunt" or shakes and shudders. It's why your Mustang is smooth as silk while doing 130 MPH.
 

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With the one piece, is there a lot of "shutter"? Or, is it still pretty smooth???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks fin1, that driveshaft from powerhouse looks pretty nice! $700 though!:eyebulge: good thing it will be awhile before i am anywhere near that kind of hp. how is the shuddering? look at the photo on powerhouses site of the stock driveshaft vs the aluminum... the stock one does look like a weak piece of crap....i can see how one would break it.

http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27
 

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I have heard of several different people picking up an aluminum driveshaft for a Ranger, and a coupler for a 03 Cobra for like $250ish, then taking it to a driveshaft shop and having it shortened by 9 inches and balanced. End up with a one piece aluminum setup for ~$300 total that works like a champ.
 

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The slip collar at the end of the shaft allows movement in and out when the suspension moves.


To use the Ranger shaft it would need to have the old style slip yoke on the trans end.
 

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Waxed'05 GT said:
With the one piece, is there a lot of "shutter"? Or, is it still pretty smooth???
GTNOS said:
how is the shuddering?
Zero shuttering.
 

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Excellent!

I have a buddy with a '97 Cobra that changed to an aluminum drivshaft and noticed a performace gain due to the reduction of weight. Works similiar to that of a light weight flywheel in that regard.
 

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This looks like a good mod. I am considering a weight reduction regimine to include frpp mufflers, off road x-pipe, and now this drive shaft. Looks to be worth around 50 pounds.:eyepoppin
 

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I have heard several times that the addition of 8lbs is similiar to removing 1hp... So removing it should have the opposite effect.
 

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BMR Fabrication also has a replacement driveshaft for the stock part on their website. It's made of carbon fiber and goes for around $ 950.00.
 

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Here is a few pics of the stock driveshaft when our car was n/a, running mid 12's with mid 1.60 60ft, this was after about 60 passes on Mickey Thompson DR
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/pwrhws/05GTProject/stockdriveshaft.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/pwrhws/05GTProject/stockdriveshaftcutaway.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/pwrhws/05GTProject/stockdriveshaftprofile.jpg

Our replacement shaft bolts in to the stock pinion flange which means anyone can install it in their driveway with a few common handtools. If you have to change the pinion flange than you need to re-setup with a new pinion crush sleeve and recheck pinion bearing preload.
 

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Scary!

Mike,

Those pics are scary! :shocked: What was your rwhp when you did that to your driveshaft?
 

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305rwhp, it's not as scary as it looks, the shaft effectivly shortened itself when it twisted in turn disengaging the center cv joint, kinda like a diconnect.

It also pulled the strap that mounts the carrier bearing to the floor and ripped the threads from the bolt holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mike is there a hp/ torque rating on that aluminum shaft??? i cant believe the stock shaft twisted like that with only 305 rwhp:eyebulge: i knew it was probably a weak point in the driveline, but i figured it would at least take 400!!
 

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Confused?!

Mike,
excuse my ignorance here as well, but isn't the stock Mustang GT driveshaft supposedly rated up to 450-500 hp? Is there something obvious we're missing here?:shocked:
 

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I would guess it has to do with the M/T drag radials, which are basically drag slicks. They would put alot more load on the drivetrain vs a street tire. Especially if you launched the car by dumping the clutch at 5,000 rpm....
 

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psfracer said:
I would guess it has to do with the M/T drag radials, which are basically drag slicks. They would put alot more load on the drivetrain vs a street tire. Especially if you launched the car by dumping the clutch at 5,000 rpm....
That is exactly correct, aggresive launches on good tires.

These shafts are rated to 900hp, and have a critical speed (where the shaft wants to begin to spin out of round) in excess of 8000rpm. which is perfect for the n/a and s/c guys that are running a 3.90 or numerically higher gear.
 

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Well this thread sertainly made up my mind from thinking about getting a alu-1-piece to a must have! I guess Brandon (MD) knew what he was talking about, AGIAIN! :sterb:

Have BMR solved their vibration issues with the Carbon Fiber piece?

Heck I might wanna get one before the strip opens and the blower install...?!?

Then how-about the tranny and rear end?? Don't wanna be spreading pieces all over the staging box!

Mike, how about stock gearing and some blown 550 RWHP, will your driveshaft hold up?
 
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