Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Why would one side of the cars brakes wear faster than the other side of the car. I just installed all new pads, rotors, pins, hardware on the rear brakes, replaced left rear caliper and mounting braket as well. 3 weeks later and the drivers rear is grinding with the outer pad on drivers side TOTALLY worn to the metal back part of the pad. Why would this be ? I also noticed the passenger rear pad(outer) was only contacting half of the rotors surface(as well as half of the pads surface, top to bottom of pad and rotor) ? ? ?

Any help would be cool..... thnx yall ! :bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
If you have replaced the left rear caliper that means the piston is not seized and holding the pad hard against the rotor. The only other thing that applies the brake is the park/emergency brake. Check the rig of the left and right cables. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,704 Posts
Could also be bad flex line. Rumor has it that as the rubber deteriorates the i.d. of the line becomes swollen which doesn't allow the fluid to return, basically keeping pressure on the caliper piston.

And when you say "left rear", you're talking about the driver's side, correct? Anyway as you're already aware, it looks like you get to do the brakes again. Just be sure to double check your installation and lube the crap out of those caliper pins. I have no idea why the passenger side pad was having that contact issue, my only guess is that something wasn't lined up correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
There are a few things you might want to check in the rear. Rapid pad wear could be caused by a sticking caliper/piston, residual pressure in the line, or parking brake adjustment. I agree with the earlier post that checking the parking break adjustment would be tops since the caliper had been replaced.
If the parking brake is not the issue, then there is an easy test to see if it is a mechanical or hydraulic issue creating the drag.
When you get the brake to drag get the rear off the ground. Rotate the wheel to feel the resistance. Then, while rotating the wheel loosen the bleeder screw. If the caliper releases then there is residual pressure in the line. You need to then find the restriction which will most likely be a line or hose associated with that caliper since the other one is not dragging.
If the caliper does not release then it is a mechanical drag. This can be caused by sliders or pins, stuck piston, or pads that are bound up in the caliper.
The uneven pad wear on the other caliper is an alignment issue. Be sure there is no buildup in the caliper where the pads slide. If it restricts pad movement upon return it will cause the pads to **** and an uneven wear will result. Make sure the pad slides/abutments are clean and lubed both under and on top of the abutment anti-rattle clip, Be sure to use a high-temp synthetic brake lubricant when doing service on the brakes.
Hope the info helps a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I had a similar problem last year when I changed the brakes on my car. one side wore out in a very short period of time (2 weeks). its was the caliper pins not having enough lube. had to redo that side all over again bought brand new pins and lubed the crap out of em. no problem since. but I would check the e- brake like they said as well.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top