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overheating after cooling system replacement

1663 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  gtpuller
Hey fellas this might be a repeat question but i cant find an answer. So i have an 07 gt that had to go into the shop for ac repairs i get it back it starts overheating so being me i try to diag and cant find the issue so i replaced everything, radiator, fan, relays, pump and tstat. It was good for a couple days then its back to overheating. I noticed the fqn isnt going to full power with ac on and im not mistaken it should be any help would be great if you need mods or specifics let me know the only perf mod is a cai.

Thank you all
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sounds like you possibly have an air pocket stuck somewhere in the block/heads. try and park on an incline and idle the car up to temp with the coolant cap off. you threw a lot of parts at a problem you couldn't nail down. check/pull codes as well. some will not let the ac come on. let us know. good luck
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Hmm, the car shouldn't over heat with the ac on. The idea is to get air passing through the condenser so the ac works properly. Try burping the system, that's a good place to start as stated. You should also give us more details about your car such as mileage. If the car was overheating before, there could be a different problem.
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Yea sorry new to this whole thing it has 75k on it and no overheating issues before i let the dealer screw with it. i read that the mustang has a bleeder valve for removing air from the cooling system but i cant find out where and i replaced all those parts but not all at once i replaced the most obvious culprits first the went down the list. ill give the burping a try. and the ac comes on its just the fan doesnt go to high when it is on thanks for the reply guys
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ok so burped the system no air however the fan still doesnt want to run properly and now im getting and little whining noise the car isnt doing anything else when that sounds comes about this is getting really annoying...
Check the electrical connections to the fan, make sure the wires are not burned or charred.
Also, it is common for the connectors on the bottom side of the BEC to get charred or burned as well (have to disconnect the battery, undo the BEC and unplug the connector to the body harness, and inspect the connector ends to the big violet-colored wires).

Check the low and high speed fan fuses, too, in the BEC. One is a 30A, the other a 20A; they are the bigger square-shaped fuses in the BEC.
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The bleeder valve you refer to is the coolant fill port. It's located to the right and below the throttlebody. It looks like a 1 1/4" diameter plug with a 1/4" square drive hole. With a cool or slightly warm motor use a 1/4" drive ratchet with extension and loosen until the coolant starts weeping out. Re-tighten and check periodically for leaks. The plug does have an "O" ring but may need a re-torqued a couple of days later. This fill port appears to be the high point in our coolant system. I also know of some folk who have had a bad pressure cap and it will give you the exact overheating symptoms you discuss. Good luck and hope it's not electrical.
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