Ford Mustang Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a lot of paint imprerfections right now and I get ticks every time I see it. :kooky:White specs, can't remove them. Not even with a clay bar. The only thing I haven't tried yet is a rubbing compound. Any ideas here? I think it must be road line paint because there is so much construction by me lately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
Take it to a professional detailing shop or even a body shop.
+1

If you're not intimately familiar with rubbing/polishing compounds and D/A polishers, I'd get it done by a professional... money well spent for a professional job in a half day that could take you the better part of a weekend...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Hey guys, I have a lot of paint imprerfections right now and I get ticks every time I see it. :kooky:White specs, can't remove them. Not even with a clay bar. The only thing I haven't tried yet is a rubbing compound. Any ideas here? I think it must be road line paint because there is so much construction by me lately.
Try some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound which can be found at the local Wally World or any auto parts store. It works great on most paint issues. If this doesn't work then you may have to get a professional detailer to aggressively buff it or maybe even color sand the problem areas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Oh yeah...that would be helpful, huh? :smilie
Errr, I feel for you man. I drive a decent distance to and from work... The guys previous have you on a good track. When you get her all cleaned up, make sure you keep her waxed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
Wow you got splattered good whatever it was.

Is your dealer's bodyshop any good? When my '09 tangled with a dumptruck full of hot tar last fall (the b*****d cut me off) it looked like what you have except black flecks on a red car. I was braced for the worst but they went over the whole car for $90 bucks... it was worth it for the piece of mind since clearcoat is so touchy and I didn't kinow what the hell I was doing.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
109 Posts
View attachment 131859 Are these rock chips acceptable on a stock Brembo wheel (tire) Mustang?
Yeah they are unfortunately. Those tires that come with the brembo pkg are sticky as ****. I had a brembo car for 5 weeks, and it would throw every stone and piece of gravel from EVERYWHERE up at the car. I was flabergasted that everytime I would be going slow, no matter where I was, it sounded like I was on a gravel road. I just got out of that car for other reasons, but into an 11 GT/CS with the regular tires and they are much harder. They almost NEVER pick up rocks or pebbles unless I am actually on a gravel road. Its definitely those tires, they need to go.

And for the OP, you need to invest in getting a Porter Cable 7424 buffer. Get a few orange pads, a Velcro wheel and some good polish from autogeek.net and then hit up youtube on how to use it. Its an Amateur buffer, but has the ability with the correct pad, polish and technique to take out almost all surface imperfections. Only those scratches that you can catch with your finger nail are too deep for it to get out. Also keep in mind that the porter cable has a max speed of 6K rpm, so its not nearly fast enough for you to do any damage with, unless you drop it on the car or something. Heres a great video on how to use it.

YouTube - ‪Porter cable 7424 light swirl remover‬‏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,405 Posts
Those specs appear to be road rash, but it's hard to tell from the pics... here's a small test for you to do; that would help us offer better suggestions:
Do a really close up inspection of the specks, run your finger nail over a few of them noting weather they are "raised" or "sunk".
If they are indeed raised, that would indicate that it's foreign matter sitting ON top your clear coat... this could easily be removed with proper pads/compound (extra fine) and an orbital.
If they are indeed "sunk"it would most likely be road rash/stone impacts and would require a visit to a body shop for further solutions.
Personally, I find that the amount of clear coat on these mustangs,especially the 2011 is ridiculously thin,not only does a clear coat protect the paint from the usual UV rays,bird droppings, atmospheric contaminants,tree sap ect, but it also acts as a "buffer" against stone chips... an impacted section of clear coat, if sufficiently thick can be easily "buffed" back down to a smooth finish 99% of the time.
I picked up a stone chip in the left front leading edge of my hood,that was quite deep,right down to the primer,and I was able to repair it 100% but it took effort/time and knowing how to go about it... I built it up higher than the surrounding paint with a tube of factory touch up paint, applying several "dots" of paint and allowing the paint to harden for two days in the sun,then using a very thin strip of 2000 ultra fine wet sand paper, I was able to "take it down" to the level of the surrounding paint/clear coat. Once the level was perfectly matched, I used a 3000 very very fine strip of wet sand paper to "smooth out" cutting marks".
I used a very fine dab of rubbing compound and went over the area,followed by a few passes of polishing compound,then over it again with a sealer, then finished it off with a layer of wax.
I cannot find it now if I tried,but I tell you this, it's pretty labour intensive to do it right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,143 Posts
Ewww....pics look bad. If those are paint spots on top of the clear coat or rash/chips--as 5.0 Candy stated--and the clay bar didn't remove them, then a good body/paint shop would be my first stop. I've seen several posts on a few sites about this same thing.

I sincerely hope you get that sorted bud. I feel for ya.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,124 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to try a good compound first. Thanks guys. Hopefully that will do the trick. It's not the end of my car's paint by any means and no one has mentioned it but me. Figures. :shigrin
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,124 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Those specs appear to be road rash, but it's hard to tell from the pics... here's a small test for you to do; that would help us offer better suggestions:
Do a really close up inspection of the specks, run your finger nail over a few of them noting weather they are "raised" or "sunk".
If they are indeed raised, that would indicate that it's foreign matter sitting ON top your clear coat... this could easily be removed with proper pads/compound (extra fine) and an orbital.
If they are indeed "sunk"it would most likely be road rash/stone impacts and would require a visit to a body shop for further solutions.
Personally, I find that the amount of clear coat on these mustangs,especially the 2011 is ridiculously thin,not only does a clear coat protect the paint from the usual UV rays,bird droppings, atmospheric contaminants,tree sap ect, but it also acts as a "buffer" against stone chips... an impacted section of clear coat, if sufficiently thick can be easily "buffed" back down to a smooth finish 99% of the time.
I picked up a stone chip in the left front leading edge of my hood,that was quite deep,right down to the primer,and I was able to repair it 100% but it took effort/time and knowing how to go about it... I built it up higher than the surrounding paint with a tube of factory touch up paint, applying several "dots" of paint and allowing the paint to harden for two days in the sun,then using a very thin strip of 2000 ultra fine wet sand paper, I was able to "take it down" to the level of the surrounding paint/clear coat. Once the level was perfectly matched, I used a 3000 very very fine strip of wet sand paper to "smooth out" cutting marks".
I used a very fine dab of rubbing compound and went over the area,followed by a few passes of polishing compound,then over it again with a sealer, then finished it off with a layer of wax.
I cannot find it now if I tried,but I tell you this, it's pretty labour intensive to do it right.

They're definitely raised. I can fix them if they were sunked. I'm no pro but I'm not stupid either. :bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Try some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound which can be found at the local Wally World or any auto parts store. It works great on most paint issues. If this doesn't work then you may have to get a professional detailer to aggressively buff it or maybe even color sand the problem areas.
+1 ^

If you have a decent orbital buffer and a foam polishing pad...you could try the Meguiers mentioned above. It worked great for me in the past.

However, first...I'd try "goof-off" or "goo gone" that you can buy about anywhere. If it is paint...then that may help. Put a little bit on a microfiber cloth and work in a small area. As soon as you're done with that area, clean it with some soapy water (car wash soap) and dry it...and then move to the next. It shouldn't harm auto paint...but I'd just make sure you remove it all before you move to the next area to keep it from sitting there long just in case. Once you're done, put a good coat of high quality wax and it may prevent future encounters like this. You'll still get stuff on your car but it'll be easier to get off.

Hopefully one of these will work. If you're not comfortable with these, then definitely take it to a good bodyshop. They'll have it looking good in no-time but you will have to pony up some cash.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,448 Posts
i used to be anal about my paint and then i realized its a car, and sh!t happens. You can never protect it no matter what. Its a muscle car, its a machine... its a bunch of metal... i know it sucks to have that on your paint but remember that in 99% of cases you will be the only one to notice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
I recently got those same white paint specs on my car; it must have happened while driving. I used a Safe Scrub Bug and Tar removal sponge I ordered from AutoGeek.net. It worked great, and it will not scratch or damage your paint. When you feel it you would never even think of using it on your car, but it works and is safe. It works ridiculously well for bugs and road tar too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
I would like someone suggested is get a Porter Cable 7424 and then buy Adams Swirl and Haze Remover Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover Polish with it's appropriate pad.

If you are using a rubbing compound you're going to have to follow it up with a polish and wax and imo Megs UC is too aggressive. Start with Megs swirl remover first (if going Megs).
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top