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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I've been brousing through this section and it seem like there are a lot of people who do their own painting and know their stuff so I thought I'd throw out a few questions as I am planning on painting my own body add-ons.

I am ordering an aggressive chin spoiler from CDC, Rousch rear spoiler, and I'm going to re-paint my quarter window louvers because I'm not happy with the prior paint job but I have never painted plastic/fiberglass products only metal in the past so here are my questions:

1) What type of primer are you guys using on these types of parts?

2) After a good base coat are you guys wet sanding these parts or do you just clear coat after you get your base coat down?

Last one
3) Since I'm going to be able to force cure these parts prior to install should I wait the 4-6 weeks to wax or do you guys think a week or two will do?

Thanks for all the help guys/gals!
 

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1. As far as primer goes most high build primers will work on fiberglass parts.
If by "plastic" you mean like a urethane part most high build primers will work on these also. You could definetly use a adheision promotor first. They are typically sprayed on.

2. I usually do not wet sand base coat. Do not wet sand basecoat if it is a mettalic paint. It will remove flake and mettalics and change the look and flop of the color. If you do sand it make sure it is a solid color. You should put at least 2-3 extra coats on. There is nothing wrong with color sanding it will smooth the paint and remove any nibs. Make sure you do not rub through any edges. If there is a nib that you sand make sure it wasnt under the sealer as this will leave a dot the color of the sealer. You should go with 600-800 grit for a color sand. Also use a soft block.

3. Most fiberglass parts suggest you full cure them in a force drying booth BEFORE you sand or paint them! Also when you force cure you urethane parts make sure you support them or they will sag and be out of shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Teeto thanks for the help but just one more quick question. What temp. would you suggest for the force cure, is 120 deg. F for 20 min. too hot or too long? Thanks
 

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Well, if you are force curing before painting the parts will or should advise you how long and at what temp. I baked mine at 180 for an hour. I would also use 180 for an hour to cure the paint enough to come out of the booth. You have to remember the air temp is different than the metal temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help Teeto!:smoke:
 
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