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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have been working on my car over the winter and I am installing gauges - water temp is my problem.

Trying to remove the bung- pipe plug used for the engine block heater. It is located up above the oil filter. It appears that it was installed with red lock tight because I can see some red around the threads. Of course I tried to remove it and at this point have buggered up the plug some. I tried to apply a little heat with propane but I am nervous about the aluminum block and surrounding components. It isn't budging.

Anyone remove this bung? How did you get it loose? I think I only have a couple tries left before I am in deep crap with tearing up the inside of the bung to the point it is a problem.

Advice?
 

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replacement:

I have not encountered said plug but I have some ideas that may help.

If you're putting in a block heater, don't those go into one of the freeze plugs? Those things are thin metal that can be pierced with a screwdriver and and then pulled out with Channel-Locks. Granted, I have not seen the block heaters for the new Mustangs but on many previous vehicles, the freeze plug was the spot where the element was installed.

Haynes now makes a manual for our cars (and the cost is only $20). You might find a shop manual on-line, too, but I am a book guy (lol) and prefer thumbing through the Haynes manual.

HTH,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #3
replacement:

I have not encountered said plug but I have some ideas that may help.

If you're putting in a block heater, don't those go into one of the freeze plugs? Those things are thin metal that can be pierced with a screwdriver and and then pulled out with Channel-Locks. Granted, I have not seen the block heaters for the new Mustangs but on many previous vehicles, the freeze plug was the spot where the element was installed.

Haynes now makes a manual for our cars (and the cost is only $20). You might find a shop manual on-line, too, but I am a book guy (lol) and prefer thumbing through the Haynes manual.

HTH,

Chris
Thanks for the reply - no the block heater is a threaded pipe plug, I am installing temp prob for a water temp gauge- the idea I just had in the shower after cleaning up from the day in garage is maybe if I run the car and let it get warm I would be up to 200 degrees then hit with a tourch- lock tight web sight says heat is the only way to get it loose but the plug is starting to get screwed up and it seems I can,t get it hot enough to melt the lock tight.
 

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replacement,

Now I get it, thanks for the additional info. Yes, I like your plan but be VERY careful when removing that plug when the engine is hot: the coolant will be under pressure (10 to 15 psig) and hot. If you have an old ratchet, you could tap the ratchet a hammer while loosening the plug-- sort of an impact driver.

In the worst case (the square in the plug is messed up) then you will have to find an extractor tool or you can cut it out with a drill and Dremel. But, let's not get too worried about the stuck plug because I am thinking that your hot engine/torch method will work!

Please post an update and be real careful when workig on that hot engine.

Chris
 

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Hey replacement,

Have you sprayed that plug with penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or???)? WD-40 is not a pen oil, just good for lubing stuff and displacing water. Try a pen oil before the hot engine method, please.

I should have suggested this sooner. PB Blaster is good stuff, lol.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey replacement,

Have you sprayed that plug with penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or???)? WD-40 is not a pen oil, just good for lubing stuff and displacing water. Try a pen oil before the hot engine method, please.

I should have suggested this sooner. PB Blaster is good stuff, lol.

Chris
Have it soaking in pb now, why not remove the radiator cap when I run it?
 

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Have it soaking in pb now, why not remove the radiator cap when I run it?
replacement,

Good man! Taking the cap off will work nicely and keep the pressure off. You'll still have hot coolant to deal with. Getting scalded with coolant is no fun.

Progress report when available, please.

Chris

p.s.--How cold is it up in NE Ohio on a Sunday night? You're made of tougher stuff than me, scrambling around on the concrete garage floor in the winter! Admirable, to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It isn't bad in the garage I run a small kerosine heater, the floor is still cold but it warms to 65 plus - I put the car on race ramps for the winter so work on a creeper, got a lot done this winter - I can only work on the car on the weekends - today I got the Laguna seca gauge pod install - man that take big ones to cut and drill the holes in the dash - measured like a hundred times came out pretty good - just this silly pipe plug screwing me up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is 30 degrees this evening - pretty warm for this time of year
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well the plan worked - not sure what did the trick, but I ran the car for 30 minutes, you could smell the pb blaster as the car warmed up lol. I hit with a very isolated hit of map gas tourch, wow they kick out some heat about 30 seconds and I was worried about the heat on surrounding stuff. Put the hex bit in and it felt like it moved, then the bit started spinning in the buggered up plug I thought I was done. Last ditch I added a universal joint to my wrench and thought - just give me one more pull. And whoot it spin right out easy a can be! Of course it is still being difficult because soooo much coolent came out I ducked out of the way and don't know where the plug fell. I have a huge mess to clean up but I am sure I will find the plug, might need to use an inspection mirror to locate it. I think it fell into the cross member so it may take a bit to retrieve the plug for the trophy collection. No damage to the block, I am so happy, if I had slowed down and let the fluid dribble out I would have been better off. Full bag of floor dry , I wasn,t going to work on the car until Saturday but it was bugging me all day so I thought I would try it , so happy ��
 

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well the plan worked - not sure what did the trick, but .... soooo much coolent came out I ducked out of the way .... Full bag of floor dry .... so happy ��
replacement,

LOLOL! I bet a bag of floor dry would be needed to dry up a whole cooling system worth of coolant. In any case, good work, young man! I bet the warm engine let PB Blaster creep into the threads a little more and the MAP gas (great stuff) broke the Loctite free. Phew.

GL finding that little trophy - it has a good story associated with it. Mirror and groping are the right tools for the hunt.

As 'Thereaper' said, please post some pics of the finished project (block heater). Love the modding porn!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #13
replacement,

LOLOL! I bet a bag of floor dry would be needed to dry up a whole cooling system worth of coolant. In any case, good work, young man! I bet the warm engine let PB Blaster creep into the threads a little more and the MAP gas (great stuff) broke the Loctite free. Phew.

GL finding that little trophy - it has a good story associated with it. Mirror and groping are the right tools for the hunt.

As 'Thereaper' said, please post some pics of the finished project (block heater). Love the modding porn!

Chris
Again no block heater- the block heater location is used for the water temp senser- I did manage to catch a lot of coolent in the "pan" but a full bag of floor dry, I will have a real water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge , along with an oil cooler. The next round will be brakes and wheel and tires. But that will most likely be next fall. I also got the MGW shifter installed. Yes I put up pictures soon.

O' I also did the acrlic plastic radio cover I learned about here in the forum - had it apart anyway.
 
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