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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a 99 v6 mustang, it ran fine till the other day. The car starts and idles fine, but when you drive it it drives for 5min then it slowly gets worse. The car spits and spudders like its not getting fuel or air and will get so bad it won't drive, but if I put the car in nutrel and turn it off and turn it back on it will drive fine for 2 more min. I've changed the fuel filter, fuel canister and checked all wires...I have to get this thing running by Monday must help needed thanks any ideas
 

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How many miles? What is the condition of the oil? Coolant?

Check the exhaust and cats for blockage.

Have you drainied and re-filled the coolant? How did you remove the air?

Consider performing a compression test.

Have you perform any mods? Tells us more about the recent work done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
168k miles no mods and checked the cats there good oil is fine I just don't kno what it could be bc when I turn the car off and back on its like it resets itself
 

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Response to 99 v6 code p1130 p1150

Hey,
I just read that maybe with those codes you could try unplugging the battery for an hour, then it should reset? I don't know but thought i'd pass it on...

Hey, actually that will just reset the codes themselves for passing inspection or something, sorry, I don't think that will really solve your problem, will still look for help though... good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've done the dash test and its telling me that the oil pressure switch bad, could that be my problem?
 

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Your car's problems are not related to the oil pressure sender.

Fix the cause of the P1130 and P1150 and it will run better. The DTC's should have been mentioned in the opening post.

Likely what is happening is there is a total break down of the O2 sensor feedback. The long term fuel trims (LTFT) start out near zero. In response to the totally wacked out O2 sensors, the LTFT go off the charts. This likely take 5 minutes of driving.

Key off/on and back on resets LTFT and the process repeats.

Any exhaust work? Possible the left and right O2 sensors wires have been swapped?

For the P1130/P1150, the list of possble causes is VERY long. Having access to an ODB2 scanner with operational data is going to be a HUGE help

>>
Electrical:
Short to VPWR in harness or HO2S
Water in harness connector
Open/Shorted HO2S circuit
Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
Damaged HO2S
Damaged PCM
Fuel System:
Excessive fuel pressure
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
Leaking fuel pressure regulator
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
Vapor recovery system
Induction System:
Air leaks after the MAF
Vacuum Leaks
PCV system
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
EGR System:
Leaking gasket
Stuck EGR valve
Leaking diaphragm or EVR
Base Engine:
Oil overfill
Cam timing
Cylinder compression
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I was just under the hood and seen when I hit the gas the top coolant hose closes. When I mash on the gas, thinkin that's the problem, how to fix this
 

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First inspect the radiator pressure cap. These are cheap enough to just replace.

Next ensure the cooling system is full.

If the problem continues after cap replacement, likely there is a blockage somewhere. But there is a chance someone has used an incorrect T-stat for this application.

If the cooling system is drained and re-filled, it is VITAL that the V6 coolant re-filled procedures be followed. The V6 will not self purge. Any air tapped in the motor will cause overheating.

FWIIW, I doubt that the radiator problem is the only problem. I don't see how this is affecting the O2 sensors. Especially since there is NO report of overheating.
 

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I normally don't call ppl out. But you are posting in the tech section. The way this works is you post the symptom. We give you some ideas and some more things to test.

You then do the tests and post the results. Based upon the results, we make more suggestions. The back and forth process hopefully leads to a SOLUTION. Trouble shooting is a process.

The Ford service manual gives 22 items to check. Have you ruled out any of them?

If you need a place to start, with the high mileage of your car, replace the front O2 sensors. Then you will be working with KNOWN good O2 sensors.

If you have a bud with an ODB2 scanner, that would be a huge help. The other metods are:

Educated guess. Information improves this option.
Test each part or sub-system individually.
Change parts starting with cheapest/easiest and work up.
Professional help.

Bottom line, these particular DTC codes have some of the longest list of possible causes. For any of us out in Internet land to help you, some information is going to be needed.

Good luck.
 
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