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Discussion Starter #1
I priced it out, I think this is the best setup for the money, what do you all think?
Eibach Prokit Springs (1.4” Drop) $250.00 Eibach AntiRoll Sway Bar Kit (front and rear) $340 UPR Upper and Lower Control Arm Package $200 Total: $790
I'd run stock struts. I was told that the stock struts don't have any issues with those springs. Also, I can always upgrade to new struts later, but I would need the UCA/LCA and sway bars regardless of whichever direction I take in the future. Would an adjustable panhard rod be a good idea or a waste with this setup?
 

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I always thought struts and springs were matched to work together, you have to pull them to install the springs and they affect ride/handling just as much as the springs, so I'd get a matched set to start...I have Konis on my Stang....wow what a difference, well worth the investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am reading through a few of the threads saying that the GT500 struts are the way to go. I haven't been able to locate any of these for a reasonable price.


edit:

http://www.performancepartsinc.com/suspension_05_09.html

Are these guys the real deal? They list a GT500 strut package for $250.
 

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Is there a reason you're beefing up the suspension so much? If you're not planning on adding some FI, IMO it's overkill.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I want to have the car handle better, right now it handles pretty horrible. I plan to use it as a weekend autocrosser.
 

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I'd advise saving your money until you've done a few autocrosses. You'll develop an understanding of the class structure, and will know what mods will take you to a faster (and more expensive) class, and which ones you'll really need.

Whenever we talk about this kind of thing I have to say again: ninety percent of Mustang mods are bought and installed on the Mt Everest principle: because they are there.

The stock Mustang handles very well, and in the hands of an experienced, expert driver will go faster than a throw-money-at-it Mustang with a driver who hasn't learned what to pay attention to.

Seat time is the best bang-for-buck in motor sports based on skill. The only individual change that comes even close is tires. But it's hard to learn to drive well on really good autocross tires.

That's what I believe.
 

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I priced it out, I think this is the best setup for the money, what do you all think? I'd run stock struts. I was told that the stock struts don't have any issues with those springs. Also, I can always upgrade to new struts later, but I would need the UCA/LCA and sway bars regardless of whichever direction I take in the future. Would an adjustable panhard rod be a good idea or a waste with this setup?

When I was researching suspension and talking to proshops, I was advised to replace the adj. panhard bar based on the drop. And for the Eibach's 1.4" drop, I would most definitely install it to bring the rear end back in line. I believe the 1" or less lowering springs you can get away with no adj panhard bar. That's what I found in my research anyways, hope it helps.
 

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I priced it out, I think this is the best setup for the money, what do you all think? I'd run stock struts. I was told that the stock struts don't have any issues with those springs. Also, I can always upgrade to new struts later, but I would need the UCA/LCA and sway bars regardless of whichever direction I take in the future. Would an adjustable panhard rod be a good idea or a waste with this setup?
Yep, that is a great group of mods. I'd just add an adjustable panhard bar: 2005-2011 Ford Mustang Pro Street Double Adjustable Pan Hard Bar - UPR Products

And some good shocks and struts.

And TIRES!!! (Hoosier A6 on spare rims)
 

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I may be wrong but I feel like there are some things you can cheap out on, suspension is not one of them or you may wind up doing more harm than good.

Maybe Sqidd knows what the spring rate abliity of the stock shocks and struts are, but I don't think they'll be able to handle the eibach pro's for very long. Plus they'll take even more of a beating if you're going to race it as opposed to just driving it around town.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd advise saving your money until you've done a few autocrosses. You'll develop an understanding of the class structure, and will know what mods will take you to a faster (and more expensive) class, and which ones you'll really need.

Whenever we talk about this kind of thing I have to say again: ninety percent of Mustang mods are bought and installed on the Mt Everest principle: because they are there.

The stock Mustang handles very well, and in the hands of an experienced, expert driver will go faster than a throw-money-at-it Mustang with a driver who hasn't learned what to pay attention to.

Seat time is the best bang-for-buck in motor sports based on skill. The only individual change that comes even close is tires. But it's hard to learn to drive well on really good autocross tires.

That's what I believe.
Car handles worse than my old 95 Maxima (Tein S-Techs, Tokico Illuminas, Energy Suspension polys), its like a boat. Straight line its pretty decent. Don't trust it worth a damn in the corners.
 

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The stock Mustang handles very well, and in the hands of an experienced, expert driver will go faster than a throw-money-at-it Mustang with a driver who hasn't learned what to pay attention to.
Car handles worse than my old 95 Maxima (Tein S-Techs, Tokico Illuminas, Energy Suspension polys), its like a boat. Straight line its pretty decent. Don't trust it worth a damn in the corners.
I guess we have different conceptions of what "handling" means. Stock-for-stock, just exactly what behaviors of your Mustang are worse than those of your Maxima?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess we have different conceptions of what "handling" means. Stock-for-stock, just exactly what behaviors of your Mustang are worse than those of your Maxima?
Stock for stock they handle about the same. Biggest issue is the Mustang has a lot of body roll. It tends to float as I enter the corner. It also understeers until you give it throttle then it tends to aggressively oversteer. The oversteer is fairly typical rear wheel drive car behavior but the rest generally is not confidence inspiring The Maxima had about $3,000 in go fast parts installed (3.5 motor swap, full suspension, poly bushings, racing clutch and flywheel etc) in it so while its not a fair comparison it would be nice to outperform a family sedan LOL.
 

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The Eibach/UPR Pro Kit springs, UPR control arms, UPR adjustable pan hard bar, and Eibach swaybars will transform the car. For sure! :bigthumbsup
 
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