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Discussion Starter #1
The oil will be changed between track days, but I was look for info on what else you would consider and how often, I was thinking diff, trans and maybe brake fluid etc.

Just generally with tracking the car how often should these item be changed.

Thanks
Chris
 

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Brake fluid- change before the next event unless you really pound them at the track. Keep an eye on the pad thickness and for cracks in the rotors exp if you have cross drilled.

YMMV but I don't mess with the trans-rear end oil. Coolant, I just keep an eye on it. Check wheel bearings and other suspension bits.

At HPDEs, the guys with older cars are running in circles to get ready for their run groups. I check the lugs for torque, make sure the tires have air and take a nap.
 

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I'll bleed brakes before every weekend event and change fluid after 2-3 weekends. Same for rear diff, especially if its been a hot weekend or the car was run hard. Engine oil I'll change after it starts to change color. Can usually get 4-5 weekends in before changing.
 

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I change the trans fluid, diff gear oil, power steering fluid, and do a coolant flush before the HPDE season begins.

During the season, I change the brake fluid (ATE Super Blue) every 4 track days (and bleed the system) during Winter and early Spring, and every 2 track days during the hotter months. I change the oil every 4 track days (Motorcraft semi-syn 5w-30). Front Pads get changed about every 4 track days; rears about every 6 track days

I check the torque on the lug nuts before every run and the like the other guys, I check my rotors (slotted, not drilled) for stress cracks before I go to the track. I also have marked the fastened suspension components, and look those marks over for any movement, as well as looking for signs of fatigue. The wheels are closely inspected before every track days as well, for signs of stress cracks.

We ran 24 track days last year over 12 months and the car ran perfectly.;)
 

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It would be ideal to flush motor oil and brake fluid after every track day, but it isn't "necessary." All comes down on how you drive on the track. Check all 4 corners, look for loose rocks (if you go off), and keep an eye out for leaks. During the track day, always keep an eye out for the "hot" tire psi immediately after every session. Torque down lugs when the cool off for a bit to avoid damage. I have neglected my trans/diff fluid because I was told to just change them out at a normal interval.
 

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I have neglected my trans/diff fluid because I was told to just change them out at a normal interval.
I wouldn't call it neglect. I won't touch the transmission fluid. I had a Tremec in the 2001 Bullitt and it sucked. Changing fluid made it worse. Rear end oil is a pain to change out even with a drain plug.

If I had a lift or even a garage, I'd bother but I'm not wringing this car out 10/10ths. I got that out of my system 10 years go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guy, I will just change the oil and bleed the brakes a little (to fill the calipers with new fluid) as I put ATE Super Blue in before my first track day on the 10th of May. Will flush the brakes completely after the season and maybe change the gear oil in the spring next year. I always check the lugs, wheel bearing and rotors/pads, tire pressures.
 

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I wouldn't call it neglect. I won't touch the transmission fluid. I had a Tremec in the 2001 Bullitt and it sucked. Changing fluid made it worse. Rear end oil is a pain to change out even with a drain plug.

If I had a lift or even a garage, I'd bother but I'm not wringing this car out 10/10ths. I got that out of my system 10 years go.
Haha good to know I'm not the only one.

Thanks guy, I will just change the oil and bleed the brakes a little (to fill the calipers with new fluid) as I put ATE Super Blue in before my first track day on the 10th of May. Will flush the brakes completely after the season and maybe change the gear oil in the spring next year. I always check the lugs, wheel bearing and rotors/pads, tire pressures.
How does the ATE superblue work for you? I have always been paranoid with it since the car is pretty heavy. I been using motul RBF 600 and Project Mu for my past track days but ATE would make it cheaper haha
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So far the ATE blue has been good. I'll take a look at it when I bleed them a little before the next track day.
 

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So far the ATE blue has been good. I'll take a look at it when I bleed them a little before the next track day.
I will give them a shot next race season.
 

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Considering going to Motul 600 since I get more pedal softness and bubbles in my ATE Super Blue than I would like during bleeds after track days.
 

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Flushed out the brake fluid before the season opener in April with Super Blue. I alternate between Motul and Super Blue, that way I know I'm getting fresh fluid in and old fluid out. No issues as of yet with Super Blue. Ran hard at Putnam Park a week ago and brakes did fine. Will bleed and be ready for Gingerman next month.
 

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I was going to suggest ATE Gold on alternate bleeds. The Gold/Blue are practically the same and lets you be sure you've done the job.

The local Porsche store only carries blue. I may have to hit on them for gold.
 

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I was going to suggest ATE Gold on alternate bleeds. The Gold/Blue are practically the same and lets you be sure you've done the job.

The local Porsche store only carries blue. I may have to hit on them for gold.
They are exactly the same formulation. Love the fact you can swith it up. Unsure why other brands don't do the same.
 

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They are exactly the same formulation. Love the fact you can swith it up. Unsure why other brands don't do the same.
The reason I didn't commit them as exactly the same is that somewhere I read the boiling points were not the same- just a few degrees off. Maybe the blue dye is worth a few degrees.
 
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