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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just put them in today...PITA to get at some of the bolts, but I think it was worth it...
 

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Fantastic! :worship

Well worth the effort! :eyebulge:
 

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scramblr said:
Just put them in today...PITA to get at some of the bolts, but I think it was worth it...
What a great way to dress up the engine compartment. Let me know the process and the cost would be great as well. Thanks
 

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Nice. Very nice...


now if FoMoCo would just start painting them all like this :)

I put up a thread a while back over at blueovalforums.com asking ford to do something about the way raw aluminum oxidizes, another guy suggested offering engine appearance upgrades just like "IUP" for the interior..."EUP" option. IT WOULD SELL.

"GET-E-UP for your ponycar!" theyd sell a bunch :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you're interested in this, please get a hold of Hatchman over at TMS. He's got a guy that paints them for him. Total cost with shipping is about $120 dollars. You get a pair shipped to you painted, swap them out with yours, and then send yours back. In-turn, yours will be used for the next person in line. Hatchman spent $400+ to buy the extra set so that no one has to be without a car while waiting for the covers to be painted. Pretty nice of him!!

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=28374


Mods: If I'm not allowed to post a link, please delete and folks can PM me.

Thanks...
 

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That looks great! I've considered powder coating my valve covers a color the called,"almost aluminum",they look like ceramic coating and are easy to keep clean.
 

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Anodized aluminum

ford4v429 said:
I put up a thread a while back over at blueovalforums.com asking ford to do something about the way raw aluminum oxidizes, another guy suggested offering engine appearance upgrades just like "IUP" for the interior..."EUP" option. IT WOULD SELL.

"GET-E-UP for your ponycar!"
"Get EUP"? Oh man that's terrible. Terrible terrible pun! I love it :)

I do aluminum anodizing for a living. We can chemically polish and anodize aluminum so that it looks almost as shiny as chrome. *However* it does not condict electricity, at all. Completely insulated, except the tiny spots that were actually touching the rack that held the part in the solution. Also, although you can anodize die cast aluminum it looks like crap and doesn't take much dye. Picture parts the color of garden soil, with perhaps a *slight* reddish tint, if you were hoping for red parts.

Other than that, any billet aluminum can be made very nice. 6061 and 7075 look best and are the most common alloys for machined parts, IME. Most sheet metal and bent parts, made of sheet metal, are 5052 and also anodize fine. 2024 looks good but has some problems with pitting if you are trying to go for a very dark color.

Awful lot of heavy, auto-parts are die cast or 356 alloy. If it is 356, we can certainly make it look prettier but if it wasn't machined, after casting, it doesn't look so good in any color but black.

I'd guess valve covers are die cast, when I think back on how they look, on the inside. Wouldn't try to anodize my own, anyway. But if you could polish them up really shiny, I could do a chromate conversion on them and they would be very protected from chemicals, but not abrasion, like from wires or vacuum tubes, under the hood. Also, chromate conversion retains the part's ability to conduct, electricity, if you need it to. The only downside is that the process involves hexavalent chrome. Ever see the movie "Erin Brockovich"? Yeah, that stuff. I don't know if it is bad to touch the parts after we process them. I wouldn't know, b/c I don't touch them :)

Hope this helps,
-David
 

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I got a set done through Hatchman a couple of months ago. I went with the Aluminum.
 

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scramblr said:
Just put them in today...PITA to get at some of the bolts, but I think it was worth it...
Nice job there. I kept looking at the 1st pic and finally figured out what was different. The oil fill has been relocated from last year. :rolleyes:
 

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hawgman said:
I got a set done through Hatchman a couple of months ago. I went with the Aluminum.
Hey hawgman,
Many ?'s How did you get the C&L tube to fit w/ the Steeda box? I got one, but no way would it go together. Where did you get the chromed tube? Did color under the Steeda box cover? Last one, did you use the red line lift kit? thanks, :wavey
 

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sonny1213 said:
Hey hawgman,
Many ?'s How did you get the C&L tube to fit w/ the Steeda box? I got one, but no way would it go together.
Just lucky I guess? Don't really know, just adjusted on the boots until everything fit together. It did take a little bit of adjustment, but wasn't really all that tough to do.

sonny1213 said:
Where did you get the chromed tube?
Not chrome. It is a regular C&L intake tube that has been polished. A buddy of mine owns a metal polishing business and does primarily car and bike parts. I sent it up to him and he did it for me. Considered doing the cam covers too, but when he told me how long a polish job would last on magnesium covers, I opted for the powder coating.

sonny1213 said:
Did color under the Steeda box cover?
If you mean the fuse box cover, yea, just slapped a little blue and white paint on the top of the fuse box cover before I put the Steeda cover on it.
sonny1213 said:
Last one, did you use the red line lift kit? thanks, :wavey
Yup, those are the Redline's. Couldn't be happier with them.
 

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hawgman said:
Just lucky I guess? Don't really know, just adjusted on the boots until everything fit together. It did take a little bit of adjustment, but wasn't really all that tough to do.

Not chrome. It is a regular C&L intake tube that has been polished. A buddy of mine owns a metal polishing business and does primarily car and bike parts. I sent it up to him and he did it for me. Considered doing the cam covers too, but when he told me how long a polish job would last on magnesium covers, I opted for the powder coating.

If you mean the fuse box cover, yea, just slapped a little blue and white paint on the top of the fuse box cover before I put the Steeda cover on it.Yup, those are the Redline's. Couldn't be happier with them.
Hey hawgman,
Good stuff. thanks. winter wonderland to face this morning. :sosad:
 

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JetBlack said:
"Get EUP"? Oh man that's terrible. Terrible terrible pun! I love it :)

I do aluminum anodizing for a living. We can chemically polish and anodize aluminum so that it looks almost as shiny as chrome. *However* it does not condict electricity, at all. Completely insulated, except the tiny spots that were actually touching the rack that held the part in the solution. Also, although you can anodize die cast aluminum it looks like crap and doesn't take much dye. Picture parts the color of garden soil, with perhaps a *slight* reddish tint, if you were hoping for red parts.

Other than that, any billet aluminum can be made very nice. 6061 and 7075 look best and are the most common alloys for machined parts, IME. Most sheet metal and bent parts, made of sheet metal, are 5052 and also anodize fine. 2024 looks good but has some problems with pitting if you are trying to go for a very dark color.

Awful lot of heavy, auto-parts are die cast or 356 alloy. If it is 356, we can certainly make it look prettier but if it wasn't machined, after casting, it doesn't look so good in any color but black.

I'd guess valve covers are die cast, when I think back on how they look, on the inside. Wouldn't try to anodize my own, anyway. But if you could polish them up really shiny, I could do a chromate conversion on them and they would be very protected from chemicals, but not abrasion, like from wires or vacuum tubes, under the hood. Also, chromate conversion retains the part's ability to conduct, electricity, if you need it to. The only downside is that the process involves hexavalent chrome. Ever see the movie "Erin Brockovich"? Yeah, that stuff. I don't know if it is bad to touch the parts after we process them. I wouldn't know, b/c I don't touch them :)

Hope this helps,
-David
Mustangs have vacuum tubes? Is that what keeps the flux capacitor charged?:shocked:
 

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Vlavle covers

scramblr said:
Just put them in today...PITA to get at some of the bolts, but I think it was worth it...
My brother, those covers are the bomb!!! They look absolutely terrific. I decided I was going to the same thing when I saw an advertisement for a plenum cover, where a customer had a black one (like yours) and painted the ribs and GT in red (like yours), he also had the red power coated covers...damn they look good. Thank you for posting that followup thread, I am giving the guy a call right away.:laughlitt
 

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scramblr said:
If you're interested in this, please get a hold of Hatchman over at TMS. He's got a guy that paints them for him. Total cost with shipping is about $120 dollars. You get a pair shipped to you painted, swap them out with yours, and then send yours back. In-turn, yours will be used for the next person in line. Hatchman spent $400+ to buy the extra set so that no one has to be without a car while waiting for the covers to be painted. Pretty nice of him!!

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=28374


Mods: If I'm not allowed to post a link, please delete and folks can PM me.

Thanks...
I tried the link and could nto find a contact number. PLEASE, could hook up a guy with a contact number? I am highly interested in this.
 

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I was thinking of doing this as well, but now have second thoughts. IMO, in scramblers pics, you kind of lose the effect or sight of them because they blend in with the color of his car. Again, this is my opinion. I think I may have to go chrome or silver.
 

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Cam covers

new stang owner said:
I was thinking of doing this as well, but now have second thoughts. IMO, in scramblers pics, you kind of lose the effect or sight of them because they blend in with the color of his car. Again, this is my opinion. I think I may have to go chrome or silver.
I truly see your point in the color matchingthe paint and blending in, but I have a Black w/red interior, and I am interested in red ghost stripes, red calipers and red accents in the engine bay. I think with the black exterior, the red accents (interior, stripes, calipers & engine bay) will contrast with the black and "pop" off the car. So, the powder coating in a particular color, like red, is highly interesting. I think the engine bay has enough silver (plus I have added some brushed aluminum accents like caps and such) and needs some color.
 

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mrvandermey said:
I tried the link and could nto find a contact number. PLEASE, could hook up a guy with a contact number? I am highly interested in this.
You're not going to find Brad's phone number in the thread there, just shoot him a PM to be added to the list ( which is kinda long ). He will get back to you to confirm. Follow the thread to see where you are at on the list. Basically it takes about 2 weeks complete door to door to door turn around time from the time he receives a non powder coated set from someone, to get them powdercoated, to the next person, that person swap his out with the powdercoated set, and get his old ones back to Brad.
 
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