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I have my car at the trans. shop trying, without much luck, to get an AOD installed. The car is a 66 coupe, 302, hyd. roller cam, 8" rear with 3.80 trac-loc. Original green dot center counsel shifter.

The trans going in is out of a 91 T-bird, rebuilt with a Trans-go AOD-HP reprogramming kit, and Trans-go high rev shift kit. It has a 3000 stall converter.

When first put together, it wouldn't shift at all. Shop took out governor, worked on it, put it back together and it shifted but skipped 2nd gear. In the process of trying to fix that, he has changed the Lokar bracket at the carb several times, he has changed the linkage arm and linkage in trans. a few times. He has pulled valve body and gone through it more than once and adjusted the Lockar cable all different ways.

It shifts fine manually. In D position it revs decently in first, then shifts firmly in to 3rd. Shifts when expected kind of soft in to 4th. Even with RPM down to the engine beginning to lug, it doesn't down shift until you are almost in to the secondaries.

Any ideas. I'm frustrated since he has had the car for about 6 weeks with little to show. He is frustrated since he has worked on it so much, he is now working for free. If you need more info., or care to discuss this, PM me and I'll call you or provide my number.
 
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Fill it a half-quart too high on the fluid.

It sounds stupid, I know, but it sounds just like the problem I had with my '87 GT when I replaced the tiny factory tranny cooler lines with larger tubing and ditched the quick-disconnects that kept popping out for threaded fittings, overfilling it a half quart was the final solution from the guy who built my tranny (it had no issues before the lines were upgraded). Mine also had a shift kit, modified valve body, and higher stall converter. I literally told this guy he was stupid when he told me that's what he finally tried, and he said "go drive it and see if you still think it's stupid." I don't think he's so stupid anymore, that transmission is still in the car five years later, it worked.

Also, try setting your TV cable pressure at 35psi or so. Spec is supposed to be 33psi, but the safe range is 28-38psi according to TCI, and bumping mine up to 35psi at a 750rpm idle in neutral with the 7/16" spacer on the cable did wonders in my '84 F150; it's got nice smooth shifts and snap-quick kickdowns from 3rd to 2nd and OD to 3rd. (Just make sure the pressure drops back down to zero, or at the very least, less than 5psi when you pull the spacer.)

As far as kickdown and the secondaries... you might try adjusting when your secondaries kick in to suit your driving style and needs. I've got mine set up (vacuum secondaries, Summit Racing 600cfm carb) where they open up right after it kicks down since I'm obviously wanting more "oomph" out of it if I'm into the throttle that far, works so far.
 

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Thanks, 74stang2go. No suggestion is stupid at this point. We've tried different fluid levels and TV pressure settings. I'm happy with where my secondaries open, just not how far you have to open the throttle to get the trans to down shift.
 
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