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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI im michael, im building a 302 for my 2.3l fox and i want to eventually put a turbo on it... (its not in my budget right now) but i also want to put some nitrous on it i have no idea what shot. i was wondering what i should do a single big turbo around a 70mm or 2 smaller turbos around 32mm... and on the single turbo how does that work with the headers going into a single collecter. i know turbos are pretty expensive the 70mm t-series from turbonetics is like 1400 (thats more than i have in the entire car including 302) haha but how much am i looking at for total? including piping, headers, turbo, intercooler, blow off valve, blow through carb, and if i forgot anything please tell me... and which is better 2 smaller turbos or one big one? and if anybody has a set up similar with all this about how much horse power am i looking at on spray with roller rockers, edelbrock performer, and 289 heads (smaller combustion chambers) intake and everything listed for the turbo...
 

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The single turbo set up is enough to split the block down the middle. I would get a piece of paper and start some research and homework. The tally will add up pretty quick with the turbo, piping, waste gate, bov, fuel, intake, clutch ect........It will all add up quicker than you know.
 

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IMO single turbo is better the twin. I don not know your budget for the turbo set up but if you a nice one ponydown makes a really good kit for about 3000 shipped. That is the kit i have and the fit is absoulty perfect, have not got to run it yet but have great faith in them because they are very helpful. Ponydown also has a twin setup for a little over 3800. If your budget is lower then that there is the on 3 performance kit that sells for around 1500, you get their turbo with the kit i dont know if it is any good tho. MY buddy has that kit but he upgraded the turbo to a master power 70mm. The only problem we had was fitting the MAF in they dont really leave any room between the intercooler piping to fit it in. Also yes the headers are connected with a crossover tube between the two. A blow thru carb is about 500 bucks unless you just convert the one you have. The amount of power you will get first depend on how many PSI you would be pushing. I believe 10psi is a little under 500 ponys on a stock 5.0, so if your getting that much you should'nt IMO spray because stock block will only hold to 500hp before they crack.
 

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The amount of power per psi also depends on the altitude (density of air) where you are. I'm going to be doing a Twin turbo kit. On3 performance as far as I know its a good kit. very complete. Check out theturboforums.com they have alot of people running that set up there. A single kit will make enough power and it'll be easier to install but it'll take a little time to spool. If you were to go with a twin kit yo don't need .35s I don't even know where you would get them. I'm going to be running a set of .50 Compressor .63 Turbine housings. They should spool up faster than the single and still make plenty of power. Money wise depending on which turbo kit you go with and what the goals are could be anywhere from 3-5K. 3K with the cheaper kit/smaller kits 5 with a medium to big kits. That could include fuel system requirements.

Fuel pump (I got the 255 fuel pump), regulator (going to but a aeromotive with the 1:1 Boost/vacuum), injectors (42lbs for me), stock fuel rails for me. You could buy some Trick Flow or BBk. etc...

Air- I hope you dont plan on keeping the stock intake. I'm using Track Heat Trick Flow intake, 75mm TB, I think its an 80 MAF matched to the 42's. Stage I Trick Flow cam (I got it for cheap, but a custom would be better) and stock heads with Trick Flow springs.

That with the kit that I got that includes, Turbos, Cold side piping, Manifolds, WGs, BOVs, oil lines and fittings. Don't forget to drill the oil pan for oil return. That pretty much sums it up. If you have any other questions (besides how it runs and how much power im making *coughs* not done yet *coughs*) you can send me a PM. :bigthumbsup

I'm sure other guys here will point out something I forgot. Thanks guys
 

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why do any forced induction? It's expensive as hell and a real pain...
I'd recommend doing a great stroker 331/347 in your 302...using a good block with forged internals and aluminum heads you can easily make 500hp...with a good NOS setup you'll be as fast as you want to be.
You really can't build a NOS then a turbo motor from the same internals, NOS loves compression, boost hates it.
As a final note, forget 289 heads or any other cast iron head for that matter, to build a shortblock of any note you MUST get aftermarket aluminum heads...the old boat anchors just don't flow enough to make big hp.
I do have a great stroker 347 forged rotating assembly for sale, if you are interested PM me...
 

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bigger cubic inch IMO its not really cost effective. A good forged rotation assembly is atleast $1000, that's not counting the machine work to bore it out, Aluminum heads set you back another $1500, and all the things to go with that aswell. It comes out to be right around the same amount of money. With the high compression that you need to run and all that fuel milage goes down alot it does too with forced induction but you're not always on the gas at WOT not in my case when I'm trying to build a DD. I do agree with no going with the 289 heads (totally missed that on my post) but the E7 with forced induction work just fine if you don't have the cash for aluminum.

We should find a way to do a N/A and stroker vs forced induction :rollgrin:.

About the N2O and forced induction not working together...I respecfully disagree. You COULD throw a small 100 shot at it, it all just depends on the goals and N2O might be that little extra kick to get you there. I won't need it. Stock heads and pistons put you right around 9:1 compression. That'll work fine for forced induction and N2O. To each their own. But high horse powered N/A are a hand full on the street compared to a tuned forced induction. IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i thought about going 347 stroker but i saw how high the prices were getting n thought i can go stroker later, and 2manystangs... how much r u wanting for the crank and rods? and i have forged pistons already... the main reason i was going to the 289 heads is the rocker arms fasten on it differently and plus their only $250 and were just rebuilt and magnafluxed.. on the e7's (i dont know if all e7's are the same way) but mine tighten up to the rocker arm and not zero lashed like the roller rockers have to be... and i thought i mentioned having an edelbrock intake also... it is ported and polished
 

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IMO I would say save up a about 1000 bucks because you can usally find a pretty nice set of aluminum heads on ebay for about that. If you really dont have the cash then i would say use the E7 heads you can buy ped mount rockers and should'nt have a problem with any lash. The reason i say use the E7 heads and not the 289 heads is because i believe the 289 heads have a smaller combustion chamber which = higher compression so with boost higher risk to you engine. But that is just my opinion.
 

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If you are going forced induction I think I would rather have a good set of iron "anchors". That is a lot of power for a 302 and I would feel safer with iron bolted to more iron. I sure wouldnt blow $1000 bucks plus on a set of high flow aluminum heads because flow numbers are not going to be a big factor for you because they should flow whatever the turbo tells them to flow. Just like 25thFox said combustion chamber size should be your main concern.
 

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If you are going forced induction I think I would rather have a good set of iron "anchors". That is a lot of power for a 302 and I would feel safer with iron bolted to more iron. I sure wouldnt blow $1000 bucks plus on a set of high flow aluminum heads because flow numbers are not going to be a big factor for you because they should flow whatever the turbo tells them to flow. Just like 25thFox said combustion chamber size should be your main concern.
Sorry to tell you but that is ridiculous. Aluminum heads are far superior and will hold the power just fine without going :blowingup:. You can look at any car making serious hp and see that they have aluminum heads plus a freer flowing head will make more power with less boost hence working the engine less cause of efficiency.
 

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If you are going forced induction I think I would rather have a good set of iron "anchors". That is a lot of power for a 302 and I would feel safer with iron bolted to more iron. I sure wouldnt blow $1000 bucks plus on a set of high flow aluminum heads because flow numbers are not going to be a big factor for you because they should flow whatever the turbo tells them to flow. Just like 25thFox said combustion chamber size should be your main concern.
That info is VERY wrong.

Let me refer you to the straw theory... If you try to blow through a very skinny straw, no matter how hard you blow, that skinny straw is going to limit how much air goes through it at one time. Get a bigger straw and you'll be able to push more air through it much easier.

That's like saying I can just throw a huge turbo or supercharger on my stock 302 and just make whatever HP numbers I can only dream of. It just doesn't work that way. And if it did why would anyone bother putting high dollar heads and intake on their cars instead of just spending $3K on a turbo?
 
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