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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a brand new 2013 gt. I went to the dyno for a BMW event and I couldn't resist running.
I only have 550miles on it so I don't know if that had an impact but it only put 358 hp to the wheels.
Now not to make excuses but I was hoping for more. It was about 75 degrees out and humid as hell and I was running 89 in it. Do you think after 1k miles I will be looking better including the 15% drivetrain loss.
 

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So I have a brand new 2013 gt. I went to the dyno for a BMW event and I couldn't resist running.
I only have 550miles on it so I don't know if that had an impact but it only put 358 hp to the wheels.
Now not to make excuses but I was hoping for more. It was about 75 degrees out and humid as hell and I was running 89 in it. Do you think after 1k miles I will be looking better including the 15% drivetrain loss.
Do you have an auto or manual?
 

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What kind of a dyno was it?
I ran mine on a Dynojet, it was later in the evening and 58 degrees out so that may have helped contribute to the slightly higher numbers I got.
358 isn't that bad at all. From what I've seen most stock 5.0s put down 360-370 HP on average.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep it was a dyno jet. My question is mainly would you guys expect an increase once I hit 1000 miles. I know "they" say once it's broken in it frees up some hp but I was wondering of that is why my baseline number was so low.
 

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Why are you running 89?
 

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So I have a brand new 2013 gt. I went to the dyno for a BMW event and I couldn't resist running.
I only have 550miles on it so I don't know if that had an impact but it only put 358 hp to the wheels.
Now not to make excuses but I was hoping for more. It was about 75 degrees out and humid as hell and I was running 89 in it. Do you think after 1k miles I will be looking better including the 15% drivetrain loss.
It'll loosen up a bit and you might pick up a few hp. What break in entails nowadays is ring seating (pretty much done on newer engines by the time you get the mileage you have) and then there is valve seat sealing. It wouldn't hurt to do some good 3-4K rpm engine braking with the manual trans to expand the rings out and make sure they are as good as they are going to get while that factory fill oil is in. That will also help break in the coasting side of the ring gear teeth, in the differential, so it'll coast easier/sooner.

I agree with Royal Purple, change out the factory fill at around 2k miles. Everything will be (typically) as good as it'll get by then. While I will not, personally, run Royal Purple in a daily driver(dyno testing done at the school I attended did show it breaks down quick). It works well for a while (hp over other syns) but loses that edge pretty soon. Not sure how long. The school got it for free by the pallet when I was there and you guys might reconize them from NMRA.
 

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You should also use 91 octane or higher to get the most out of your engine, It probably would have been a little higher if you had
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why are you running 89?
Bc gas prices are getting bad and I had zero intentions of putting mine on the dyno, and then I got there.

I am going to take it back in November and hope that with more miles it will push closer to 370 or so and I am considering a tune but I am very concerned with loosing my factory warranty.
 

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Can u explain how to do this?
Slowing down only using your brakes after shifting to neutral...is NOT it. Basically, without using brakes much...you use the clutch, downshift, let clutch back out finding the point where the rpms would rise to 3-4k will help slow the vehicle. (ie downshifting sooner) I never drove a manual going into neutral, only braking. Each gear up, each gear down.
 

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Cmon people, it costs $5 per tank to run super. That's a bargain if you compare it to the cost and hassle of putting an engine in your car, which we have seen occasionally let go a la the infamous #8. Plus you just never know when you're gonna hit the dyno.
 
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Was the dyno run done in 5th gear(1:1)?


Also running less than 93 octane(or whatever is the highest available) is not a great way to save money.
 

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Was the dyno run done in 5th gear(1:1)?


Also running less than 93 octane(or whatever is the highest available) is not a great way to save money.
Agreed, if they ran your car in 4th gear, which is what would have been used on practically any 5-speed Mustang prior to 2011, then you will have lower numbers. My dyno guy did this for my 1st run, and my next question was, what gear did you just use. When he said 4th and I to explain that 5th gear was the new 1:1 gear, and to run it again. We saw a bump of about 12hp and 40tq by using 5th.

As for the gas, I've explained this over and over and over on threads. It is pointless to put lower octane gas in your car unless higher octane fuel simply isn't available at the gas station your at, and another gas station simply isn't an option at the time.

The cost difference between mid-grade to premium is about $0.15, and regardless if fuel sells for $1.50 or $6.00 per gallon, the cost differential is almost always constant $0.15 per gallon.

15-gal of 89-Oct @ $3.50 = $52.50
15-gal of 93-Oct @ $3.65 = $54.75

Savings = $2.25 for fill-up of 15-gallons.

If you drive 20,000 miles per year and you average 20mpg, that save you a whopping $12.50 per month, or $150.00 per year.

I hope this sheds light on how absolutely ridiculous and fruitless filling up with less than premium octane full really is.

Now, if you seriously need to scrape to come up with an extra $12.50 per month for premium octane fuel, than you have much bigger financial problems that you're willing to admit to, on top of the fact that you bought the wrong car as well, as a Mustang GT will cost more to own per year over a V6 model simply based on the oil changes, as the GT 5.0 takes 8-quarts of oil instead of 5-quarts, and that alone will cost you about an extra $15 per oil change.
 

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Always 98 RON petrol and above. ( I think that corresponds to a little higher than US 93 octane).
We even have 100RoN petrol in some stations here in Switzerland. I always use the highest grade fuel I can find.

And 358 is not a bad number. That's almost 421hp at the crank. When I dynoed mine I had
356 on the wheels. Which became 393 after installing Bama 93 race
Tune with JLT.
 

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Doesn't seem far off. I had mine on the dyno around 500 miles and put down 365 with 91 octane.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mike, do you know if they did a 4th or 5th gear pull. I am loosing sleep over these few hp. I live in fl and the humidity was god awful but there was some other cars that pulled pretty respectable numbers. I'm going to put 1k on it and then take it back with race fuel. Fingers crossed for 480
Rwhp lol.


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Same here my car has 373 gears and is a manual. It put down 359 hp and 332 tq on yhe dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Skygtr- I don't know if you were like me but I was bummed out. I went with an m3 club and they all busted my balls bc we had expected big number.
I did however have all of them on torque by about 30 lb ft.
I am just hoping so bad that after its officially broken in and some fluids change I get closer to 370. Either that or I have a talk with someone about the awesome fl humidity.


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