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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not posted in a while, mainly because I have been enjoying driving my car around and I did not want to mess with a good thing. But, like most of you, I could not just leave the car alone. I need to get my hands dirty and tear something down .....

Well, the temp gauge on my car get up close to its max limit very quickly and often. the car never overheated or spewed fumes. I have seen the posts and I am convinced that when the person before me did the 302 swap from a V6, he kept the same radiator. So, I am now shopping for radiators and I wanted to know if you guys and gals have any recommendations?

I have seen on ebay the 3-row aluminum radiators sell from around $199 to $700. anyone has any experience?

Did anyone put a 24" radiator for a small block? If so, how did that work out?

To give you more information, I have an electric fan (loud as hell) that is controlled by an electronic sending unit embedded in the body of the radiator. The current radiator has a driver side bottom inlet/outlet (not sure) and very strange it is only 11/4" not 13/4".
 

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I got a 3 row off ebay and i couldn't have been happier. I was about to spend over 500 dollars to get a griffin but i thought one off ebay would save some bucks and it did. From what i saw out the box it was high quality. Looks real good in my engine bay too. It was around 240 shipped. Just dont fall for the bs claims when they say 4 row that cools 1200hp! thats bs. but i found an honest seller with 99.6 percent feedback and it was pretty good. I would definatly reccomend the guys that got me. Ill find the box and tell you what make it is so you can find it. It also came with the fan and all the hardware to attach it.
 

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Oh i remember now. Its a champion radiator. good stuff.:bigthumbsup
 

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Hey FordGtMan, what radiator did you have in your car before your 3 row aluminum? I have an original condition 2 row in my car with a freshly rebuilt 302 and I'm getting overheating problems. I'm looking at those Champion Radiators and I'm about sold on them.
 

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I also had the original 289 radiator. early small blocks and roller motors ran at different temps though. You have to take that into account. Until i changed to a higher thermostat my gauges showed the engine was running as hot as the gauge could show even with the aluminum radiator. Could be your problem but who knows.
 

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yeah, I actually used the original block and just "stroked" it to a 302 so it should be close to the same. Well, I've gotta say, thanks for the input and advice for Champion Radiators. I just ordered one! We'll see how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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looks great you should think about loosing that battery. get a sealed style so it wont leak and rust you fender apron in the future and help the looks. im putting mine in the trunk, i had to replace the whole battery holder panel due to that style battery
 

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Looks great man. I cant believe all that aluminum could be sold for so cheap. Who needs a 700 dollar radiator anyways.
 

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Most older cars used a 2 core brass/copper radiator which is fine stock.But engines today running alum heads and intake they heat soak less so the coolant system has more work to do.Some radiators your buying a name is all it comes down to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
looks great you should think about loosing that battery. get a sealed style so it wont leak and rust you fender apron in the future and help the looks. im putting mine in the trunk, i had to replace the whole battery holder panel due to that style battery
Thanks for the advice. I did replace the battery tray cause the old one was rusted out and corroded. I will add this to my to do list. Let me know if you have a particular recommendation for a sealed style?
thanks
 

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hi
just to update you. I picked up a radiator from ebay for $140 from Radiators4Lesss. Radiators4Less items - Get great deals on GM ALL ALUMINUM RADIATORS, FORD ALL ALUMINUM RADIATORS items on eBay Stores!

I was able to install it in less than two hours and the difference is amazing. The temp gauge needle now goes up to the first quarter of the dial and stays there. The radiator looks cool as well.
How was the fit? I was going to have my radiator cleaned, pressure checked, and painted but it would cost just as much as this new aluminum one here so it's pretty easy to do the math.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How was the fit? I was going to have my radiator cleaned, pressure checked, and painted but it would cost just as much as this new aluminum one here so it's pretty easy to do the math.

I needed to drill two holes in the mounting bracket to be able to align the radiator with the existing holes and make sure it cleared the hood. To elaborate further, if I were to use the holes already drilled in the radiator mounting frame/bracket, the hood would not close because the radiator neck is not recessed. There are more expensive radiators with recessed neck or, if you have a drill and a marking pen, just mark the holes using the old radiator as a template and drill them out. It worked without any problem.

Also, I used insulation heat resistant foam lining between the radiator and car body to prevent it from rattling in the future and to give it some cushion in during driving. You can also get rubber washers, they probably would work the same.
 

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Look at Champion Radiators. They fit, they're cheap, excellent quality, and they come with a money back guarantee.
You can find them on ebay - get their number and call for your application. You can order them with or without an electric fan.
 
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