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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My first post on this forum - please go easy if I don't follow forum rules/protocol (I am willing to learn!). Spent a ton of time on the Raptor forum and they get uptight about newbies and the forum culture! Here goes...

2014 Mustang V6 - basic model. 40K miles, not my daily driver. Recently, it's been pretty hot here, 90s mostly. Car has been rock solid since I have owned it (2 years).

Event #1 - after running a couple of errands then about a 15 mile drive, pulled into parking spot. Car starts steaming antifreeze from under hood and spilling onto ground. Quite a bit, too. Towed to Ford dealer, they diagnose it needs a new water pump. $1,000 spent at this point.

Event #2 - a couple of days later, run some errands, pull into parking spot and same thing - steam and pools of antifreeze under car. Tow to dealer again. They try to recreate the problem by "driving it around". They can't find anything - diagnose that it's probably residual air in lines??? Tell me I can pick up car.

Event #3 - literally same scenario as #2. This time I video'd the steam and overflow. Dropped it again a the dealer. This time I waited overnight and drove the car to the dealer - nothing, temp gauge was dead on perfect. The car has been at the dealer 2 weeks now. They have driven over 150 miles on the car. They cannot reproduce the issue.

One other piece of evidence - during each event, the A/C seems to stop blowing cold air. It works fine otherwise.

To me it feels like it has to be an electrical problem with the fan not kicking on - an intermittent electrical issue. I am unsure why the dealer can't check this, I have discuss and they say they need to recreate the problem to diagnose it.

Anyone ever experience anything like this on a 2014 basic V6?
 

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The thermostat immediately comes to mind.
How long between these events mileage wise?
I thought that I heard there was some water pump issue with the 3.7L but it's been replaced in yours so you can rule that out for the most part. They probably just guessed on that anyway. It's common unfortunately.
If the car overheats then I believe the A/C automatically shuts off. However, whether it's a potential cause(related) or effect remains to be seen. Indeed, if the fan stops blowing then the A/C can freeze up and blow warm due to no circulation. When you notice the A/C doing this the next time I would definitely pull over immediately and pop the hood to see if the fan is turning.
 

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I believe the A/C automatically turns itself off when it sees the engine temp getting too high, to reduce the load on the engine and cooling system. So that part apparently is working correctly.

I assume the dealer already re-purged the air from the system, when they suspected trapped air the first time. If not, that might need to be done.

I also suspect an intermittent issue with the fan. However if the car is moving at decent speed, the fan does not make much difference . . . does this happen in stop and go traffic, or during steady cruise at a decent speed, like maybe 40 MPH or faster? (I'm guessing that is fast enough that the fan probably is not needed)

Yeah if you could "catch the fan in the act" that would confirm whether that is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I believe the A/C automatically turns itself off when it sees the engine temp getting too high, to reduce the load on the engine and cooling system. So that part apparently is working correctly.

I assume the dealer already re-purged the air from the system, when they suspected trapped air the first time. If not, that might need to be done.

I also suspect an intermittent issue with the fan. However if the car is moving at decent speed, the fan does not make much difference . . . does this happen in stop and go traffic, or during steady cruise at a decent speed, like maybe 40 MPH or faster? (I'm guessing that is fast enough that the fan probably is not needed)

Yeah if you could "catch the fan in the act" that would confirm whether that is the issue.
The actual overheating (steam and boiling over) has only occurred while the car is stopped or parked. The A/C getting hot does occur while rolling. We don't really drive this car hard, not like it's a Shelby.

Dealer claims it can't be the thermostat (that was my first question). I did tell them I was a little miffed that they replaced the water pump on my dime, because I am now doubtful that was needed at 40K miles. Earliest water pump failure I have ever had!
 

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The actual overheating (steam and boiling over) has only occurred while the car is stopped or parked. The A/C getting hot does occur while rolling. We don't really drive this car hard, not like it's a Shelby.

Dealer claims it can't be the thermostat (that was my first question). I did tell them I was a little miffed that they replaced the water pump on my dime, because I am now doubtful that was needed at 40K miles. Earliest water pump failure I have ever had!
Why did they rule out the thermostat exactly? I would want a specific explanation because that is one of the first likely things they should have replaced not after an expensive wrong water pump guess.
Since the A/C stops blowing even at speed and the issue intermittently does this only when sitting idling I would bet that the fan is the problem. It could be the coolant temp sensor, fan, fan module, fan relay, or the wiring or bad connection to any of these. Technically, it could also be the PCM but that would be extremely rare.
I would go with the relay first since intermittent operation is often attributed to a failing relay. Maybe swap it with another of the exact same part # in the box in the engine compartment and see if the other circuit that you swapped it with experiences problems. That would confirm that the relay was the problem.
Spending $1000 and not having your car fixed would enrage anyone. I would demand they eat all the labor to get it fixed going forward and ask for a refund or future credit there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I agree on pretty much everything you said. I have easy access to 5 or 6 decent Ford shops in my area. This particular shop has always treated me extremely well, it's the only place I will take my Raptor now. They are fantastic with F150s.

Thus my trust with them on the initial diagnosis.

Maybe it's the difference with a newer Raptor and an older "base" Mustang - guess they could be throwing a lower level tech at it???
 

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I would vote for the thermostat as well. I had an 08 pony that I had to replace the thermostat early in it's life.
 

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Turn on your air conditioner. Open the hood. Is the fan running? If not , that's your problem :) If the fan is running with the air on then it must be the thermostat.................
 

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Sonicsunspot don't every pay $1,000 for a water pump job again. I have the same car. Long as you know your left from your right I can talk you through it. Its not hard not even that time consuming a simple set of sockets and combination wrenches is all you need. In fact before you do anything check with us here at the forum I am sure we can help you.
 

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Sonicsunspot don't every pay $1,000 for a water pump job again. I have the same car. Long as you know your left from your right I can talk you through it. Its not hard not even that time consuming a simple set of sockets and combination wrenches is all you need. In fact before you do anything check with us here at the forum I am sure we can help you.

I agree. Lots of youtube videos showing you how to do it. Very easy......I would not be speaking very highly of my dealer if they were screwing me over like Sonicsunspot dealer is doing to him :(
 

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When my 2011 began overheating and coughing up engine coolant, it gave me one last undeniable warning: it threw the serpentine belt on a freeway off-ramp. Fortunately, I was only a mile or two from home and the battery had enough life to carry me the rest of the way. The engine cooling problem was due to a failing belt tensioner pulley. One pulley wheel, one serpentine belt and one air conditioner belt and less than $100 later with a little "elbow grease" in the driveway, and all is well, again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Everyone, thanks for the advice. In this case I was in a jam and didn't have the time to pull the water pump myself. Pretty sure I could have done it myself - done much more complex repairs over the years.

Update - dealer has had car for 3 weeks (this is after the repair PLUS a 2nd 2-week after it did it the second time). STILL can find no apparent problem and unable to replicate the problem. 200 miles of driving by the shop and several of their techs, and it won't do it again.

I have no idea what the next step is. Guess I will take it back and drive it a while, weather is cooling off here so it may not happen again until next summer. I would sell it, but I just can't pawn it off on someone knowing there is something weird.
 

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My first post on this forum - please go easy if I don't follow forum rules/protocol (I am willing to learn!). Spent a ton of time on the Raptor forum and they get uptight about newbies and the forum culture! Here goes...

2014 Mustang V6 - basic model. 40K miles, not my daily driver. Recently, it's been pretty hot here, 90s mostly. Car has been rock solid since I have owned it (2 years).

Event #1 - after running a couple of errands then about a 15 mile drive, pulled into parking spot. Car starts steaming antifreeze from under hood and spilling onto ground. Quite a bit, too. Towed to Ford dealer, they diagnose it needs a new water pump. $1,000 spent at this point.

Event #2 - a couple of days later, run some errands, pull into parking spot and same thing - steam and pools of antifreeze under car. Tow to dealer again. They try to recreate the problem by "driving it around". They can't find anything - diagnose that it's probably residual air in lines??? Tell me I can pick up car.

Event #3 - literally same scenario as #2. This time I video'd the steam and overflow. Dropped it again a the dealer. This time I waited overnight and drove the car to the dealer - nothing, temp gauge was dead on perfect. The car has been at the dealer 2 weeks now. They have driven over 150 miles on the car. They cannot reproduce the issue.

One other piece of evidence - during each event, the A/C seems to stop blowing cold air. It works fine otherwise.

To me it feels like it has to be an electrical problem with the fan not kicking on - an intermittent electrical issue. I am unsure why the dealer can't check this, I have discuss and they say they need to recreate the problem to diagnose it.

Anyone ever experience anything like this on a 2014 basic V6?
Hi...first off...$1000 for a waterpump replace? Are they crazy? Like I always say...start easy and work your way up.....check all your cooling system components....replace as needed. Do a cooling system pressure test...in your driveway not at that " rip you off" dealership. Check all fans for functionality if that's an issue then go from there. I recommend getting a detailed repair manual which will help you ...either in paper form or downloaded off the internet. Even if one has minimal mechanical skills, reading up on the various cooling system items , and getting yourself familiar will help you do some of this yourself. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally got the car back this morning. Dealer had it 2 weeks and basically did nothing except add 100+ miles. First thing I did at the dealer, per the suggestion above, was turn the air on and pop the hood. Fan is running fine. Drove it to work, temp was nestled right in the middle (normal), no issues.

I did stop the car, the fan stopped with the car, can't remember if that's normal if it runs on for a while (it's warm here, temps in 80s).

Started the car back up, it surprised me that it took the gauge quite a while to get back up to temp - is that normal??? It took maybe a minute to climb, seems like it should go directly to the temp of the engine (which had to still be pretty warm).
 

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It could be the coolant temp sensor, fan, fan module, fan relay, or the wiring or bad connection to any of these.
A minute seems a bit long if it was already pretty much at operating temp. Perhaps the temp sensor is an issue. I'll check my car today to see if it is similar. It's a GT but the temp sensor/gauge should work the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For 2014-ish V6 owners, I am also curious how long your fans run after you shut down the car. Mine seems to stop almost immediately, but I can tell you when popping the hood the engine is still VERY hot. The hood prop was so hot I could barely use it. Seems like the fan should run for maybe a little bit.
 

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If it happens again, pull the thermostat, drive car as you normally do and see if it still overheats.... With water pump being replaced, system purged, fans working, etc., that's all it could be.
 

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as far as I know, the fans shut off immediately when you shut off the car . . . I don't ever remember my hood prop-rod being that hot, even after a 20-minute road track session, which is about as severe as it gets . . . seems like something else must be going on; or you could leave the car idling for a while to cool down before shutting it off
 
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