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For the Raxiom 2011 headlight projector CCFL, does anyone know if you need to turn the parking lights on during the day to have the halos light up? Or are they not even plugged into the parking lights but to the ignition?
Raxiom Headlight question
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The halos (and accent LEDs) are on a completely separate circuit from the headlights. They have their own power and ground wires that you can connect to whatever power source works for you. The installation manual suggests connecting to the parking light circuit for power (probably because it's right there and convenient) which would mean they only come on with the other lights. I connected mine to an ignition switched source so they're more like DRLs - on whenever the ignition is on.
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Can you tell me how to do it your way through the ignition?
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You'll find that the Raxiom lights have a loose pair of red and black wires that are separate from the headlight and parking/turn signal connectors. The red and black wires are power and ground for the accent lights (halos and LEDs).
You will have to add wire to the red wire on each side to make them long enough to reach the junction box on the right side under the hood. When you flip open the junction box lid, you will see a bunch of fuses and some open fuse sockets. Near the middle of the box you will see three fuses that are aligned pointing front to back - all other fuses are aligned across (left to right). The middle of the three fuses is ignition switched. I chose it because the circuit is for the rear window defroster so if anything happened I wouldn't loose an essential system. Use an "Add A Circuit" or similar fuse tap to connect your two red wires to power.
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You only need a 3-amp fuse to protect both sides.
You can connect the black wires on each side to any convenient ground. For example, you could splice into the black with yellow ground wire from the parking/turn signal lights or you could use a ring terminal to ground to the existing ground bolt on the radiator support on each side.
You will have to add wire to the red wire on each side to make them long enough to reach the junction box on the right side under the hood. When you flip open the junction box lid, you will see a bunch of fuses and some open fuse sockets. Near the middle of the box you will see three fuses that are aligned pointing front to back - all other fuses are aligned across (left to right). The middle of the three fuses is ignition switched. I chose it because the circuit is for the rear window defroster so if anything happened I wouldn't loose an essential system. Use an "Add A Circuit" or similar fuse tap to connect your two red wires to power.
You only need a 3-amp fuse to protect both sides.
You can connect the black wires on each side to any convenient ground. For example, you could splice into the black with yellow ground wire from the parking/turn signal lights or you could use a ring terminal to ground to the existing ground bolt on the radiator support on each side.
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Do you think you could send me a video or a picture tutorial? I went to some local aftermarket shops and they want 300$ + to install... No way
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Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. It's a very simple wiring job if you have any experience at all with wiring.
Buy yourself some 16-gauge wire (red would be good to make later tracing easier). You'll need about 8-10 feet. Pull off the radiator cover so that you can access everything - I think there's nine push pin retainers holding it on.
Get a couple of ring terminals and crimp them on the ends of the black wires.
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You'll see a stud on top of the radiator support on each side that already has a black wire ground. Remove the nut, slide the ring terminal over the stud and reinstall the nut. Do the same for the other side.
Now crimp a butt connector to the end of the red wire on the left (driver's) side.
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(It's actually much better to solder and heat shrink these connections but a butt connector is easier and will do the job.)
Take a piece of your new wire that is long enough to reach the red wire on the right side (plus a little slack) and crimp one end to the open end of the butt connector on the left side. Route the wire neatly along the radiator support and hold it in place with zip ties. Now take both the red wire from the right side light and the new wire from the left side and crimp them into one end of another butt connector. Then cut a piece of new wire long enough to reach from that connector to the junction box. Add at least 18 inches to allow for neat routing and going around the back of the junction box and inside to the fuse tap. I recommend routing the wire the way you want it to go before cutting it. You can always take more off if it's too long but it's a pain to have to redo if you cut too short.
Crimp your new wire to the open end of the butt connector and route the wire along the inner fender to the back of the junction box where you'll see other wires going under the cover.
Crimp the other end of your new wire to the butt connector that came on the fuse tap. Pull the existing fuse from the location I mentioned and insert it into the lower slot of the two fuse slots on the fuse tap. Put a 3-amp or 5-amp fuse in the upper slot. Plug the fuse tap into the junction box where you removed the fuse. Test that everything works - the halos and LEDs on both sides should go on and off with the ignition.
Make sure everything is neatly routed and tied down then reinstall the radiator cover. You're done.
Buy yourself some 16-gauge wire (red would be good to make later tracing easier). You'll need about 8-10 feet. Pull off the radiator cover so that you can access everything - I think there's nine push pin retainers holding it on.
Get a couple of ring terminals and crimp them on the ends of the black wires.
You'll see a stud on top of the radiator support on each side that already has a black wire ground. Remove the nut, slide the ring terminal over the stud and reinstall the nut. Do the same for the other side.
Now crimp a butt connector to the end of the red wire on the left (driver's) side.
(It's actually much better to solder and heat shrink these connections but a butt connector is easier and will do the job.)
Take a piece of your new wire that is long enough to reach the red wire on the right side (plus a little slack) and crimp one end to the open end of the butt connector on the left side. Route the wire neatly along the radiator support and hold it in place with zip ties. Now take both the red wire from the right side light and the new wire from the left side and crimp them into one end of another butt connector. Then cut a piece of new wire long enough to reach from that connector to the junction box. Add at least 18 inches to allow for neat routing and going around the back of the junction box and inside to the fuse tap. I recommend routing the wire the way you want it to go before cutting it. You can always take more off if it's too long but it's a pain to have to redo if you cut too short.
Crimp your new wire to the open end of the butt connector and route the wire along the inner fender to the back of the junction box where you'll see other wires going under the cover.
Crimp the other end of your new wire to the butt connector that came on the fuse tap. Pull the existing fuse from the location I mentioned and insert it into the lower slot of the two fuse slots on the fuse tap. Put a 3-amp or 5-amp fuse in the upper slot. Plug the fuse tap into the junction box where you removed the fuse. Test that everything works - the halos and LEDs on both sides should go on and off with the ignition.
Make sure everything is neatly routed and tied down then reinstall the radiator cover. You're done.
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So I know this is an older thread but I did this install today. Took me longer than expected, but pretty straightforward. However, the add a circuit I have seems to be too large to fit into the fuse box. Do I need an ATM or ATO add a circuit or different type? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Everything is working right now except the halos. I have em all soldered together but havent connected them to the fuse box.
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