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Hey guys...thought I'd post a helpful tidbit on an easier way of removing the front bolt out of the rear leaf springs in the 65/66 cars. This may apply to other years, but I haven't been under them to say for sure or not.

After attempting to take mine out, I came on here earlier today to look up how to take it out as I ran into difficulty. I learned that there is a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that typically rusts to the bolt, thereby keeping you from getting your bolt/leaf spring out. After reading 7 or 8 threads on this subject, the consensus to removal is:

Hack saw, saws-all, cutting torch, cutting wheel, soaking in various fluids, and other various methods, some butchering things and others lighting things on fire, and all saying that "it took hours" and "a package of blades" if you were the lucky owner of one that is rusted together.

With my method, I had it out in ten minutes - no soaking of fluids or cutting involved. Here's what I did, and hopefully I'll help someone out here:

*READ THIS BEFORE DOING IT, THERE'S A COUPLE THINGS YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET PRIOR TO STARTING THIS*

*REMOVE WEIGHT FROM THE SPRING, AND OTHERWISE SUPPORT THE CAR AND AXLE. DO NOT CONTINUE UNTIL THIS IS DONE.*

I started by undoing the spring plates and u-bolts so the leaf spring could drop out when I was done.

1. Loosen the nut (impact or ratchet, depends on how much you want to work at it). Leave the nut threaded to the end of the bolt where they are flush together. Make sure the bolt turns and your only dealing with the rusted sleeve.

2. Get this stuff from a hardware store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc). Go to the pipe/plumbing section and find a short section of metal piping (I got one that's probably 15 or 16 inches long) with threaded ends. Get the metal caps for both ends. The end result here is once the caps are screwed on, you have a solid pipe from end to end. Don't get a fat pipe or it won't work, because of the small space you're working with. This is your new tool.

3. Line your new pipe tool up as best you can on the end of the bolt/nut flush end (the pipe cap end on the bolt/nut). Take a 4 or 5 pound sledge and, holding the pipe to keep it steady, let her have it! Line up again and let her have it. If it won't come, hit it harder. Keep the nut on the end of the bolt so you don't tear up the threads/and/or mushroom it making it impossible to slide through the metal sleeve. I used a rag on the pipe where it was on the body to protect the paint.

4. Check the bolt head on the other side. The key here is once you've hit it enough and hard enough, it will break loose (kind of like shocking the ball joints apart the harder and more times you hit it). Once you feel/see it coming out, you've broken the rust seize.

5. Keep whacking it with the pipe tool until the nut on the end meets the mount. Loosen it up a bit, whack it, loosen some more, whack it, etc. Eventually the nut has to come off when you run out of threads. Whack it one more time to get the bolt through the first side of the mount.

6. The only thing now is to get the bolt to slide out of the sleeve. Grab the bolt head, and as you wiggle the leaf spring back and forth in its mount, pull it out.

Took me ten minutes start to finish!

As a bonus, depending on the thickness of the pipe you bought, take the caps off and you now have a cheater bar!

If you use this method or try it on other years, let me know how it works for you.
 

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Thanks for that info, ineed to save tis post due to the fact it wont be long till I will be doing this myself for the 1st time.
 
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