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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what is the best rear suspension setup for street, i was thinking aftermarket swaybars, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms.....now the stang has a ladder bar type on now if i take them off should i put the quad shocks back on??
 

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what is the best rear suspension setup for street, i was thinking aftermarket swaybars, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms.....now the stang has a ladder bar type on now if i take them off should i put the quad shocks back on??
yeah its setup like ladder bar,
When you say best setup for the street, do you mean straight line or cornering? We have some nice setups either way, at uprproducts.com, and forum members get a 10% discount. (with a coupon code that I can send you)

Lets see some pics of the current set up. Even some cell phone pics from underneath the car. I bet it has something like the old lakewood slapper bars. It would have to be backhalfed to have ladders, and if that's the case, reinstalling the stock style suspension is MAJOR bucks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ld want to go for cornering, if i go for sway bars front and rear, lowering springs front and rear, rear upper and lower control arms and put the rear quad shocks back on...how that sound
 

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Those look like Lakewood's...I remember when I had Southsides back in the day.

Also what you said is a good start but don't forget bushings as the stock ones are probably shot.
 

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what is the best rear suspension setup for street, i was thinking aftermarket swaybars, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms.....now the stang has a ladder bar type on now if i take them off should i put the quad shocks back on??
ld want to go for cornering, if i go for sway bars front and rear, lowering springs front and rear, rear upper and lower control arms and put the rear quad shocks back on...how that sound
here are the pic hope you can see enough.....

Phew, thank God! I was hoping you didn't really have a ladder bar rear suspension! (you have to replace the entire rear floor to reinstall stock-style suspension on a ladder bar car)

Yep, those are traction bars, aka, slapper bars. You still have the stock-style suspension, which means that the common aftermarket suspension systems will bolt onto your car.

For a street setup with an eye toward decent cornering ability, this is what I'd recommend:


Front k-member kit with coilovers:
1979-1993 Ford Mustang Tubular Chrome Moly K Member Kit - UPR Products

caster camber plates:
90-93 Mustang Steel Caster Camber Plates

adjustable struts:
1987-1993 Ford Mustang Strange 10 Way Adjustable Strut S6001EM - UPR Products

steering shaft:
79-93 Mustang High Performance Power Shaft Kit

Strut tower brace:
BBK 1986-1993 Ford Mustang Strut Tower Brace Black 2504 - UPR Products

full length sub frame connectors:
79-04 Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors

Rear control arms:
79-98 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

torque box reinforcements:
79-04 Mustang Heavy Duty Upper/Lower Torque Box Kit

adjustable shocks:
1979-1993 Ford Mustang Strange 10 Way Adjustable Shock S6000EM - UPR Products

adjustable spring kit:
79-04 Mustang Adjustable Rear Spring Mount & Springs


First of all, don't be shocked by the long list. It's not like you have to do all of this. If you're like me (or like most people) you can only do one mod at a time, as finances allow. I just put together a full list that would make a nice daily driver that will work well in a straight line and in the corners. Don't get me wrong, this is not a professional roadracing setup, nor is it a full on drag racing setup. Just a well-rounded setup for the street. You can crank up the dampening and corner fairly well on a set of 17" wheels with good tires, or you could loosen up the dampening (it only takes about two minutes in a parking lot, with no tools) and launch very well on "bigs & littles".


As for the parts, the k-member kit takes a lot of weight off of the front end and removes a lot of the slop caused by the weak factory control arm bushings. Its included coilover setup gives you lots of choices for which springs you run, so you can choose stiff for cornering, soft for drag, or in the middle for a compromise. The cc plates give you the ability to properly adjust the caster and camber for whatever ride height and driving style you prefer, plus they remove the MAJOR steering slop caused by the factory strut bushings. The adjustable struts (and shocks) allow you to quickly and easily adjust the dampening for however you want to drive. The steering shaft replaces the factory "rag joint" which causes a huge amount of slop in the steering system. Of course, the strut tower brace and sub frame connectors stiffen up the wet noodle of a chassis that our Fox cars are known for. The rear control arms have polyurethane bushings which provide better traction in a straight line and in the corners, eliminate wheel hop, and reduce the rear end sway in cornering which is caused by the factory rubber bushings in the control arms. The torque box reinforcements strengthen the factory control arm mounts so they can handle the extra load caused by the increased traction. Lastly, the adjustable rear spring kit has a height-adjustable spring perch which allows you to set the ride height and use coilover type springs so you can choose how soft or stiff you want to go on the spring rate.


You can think of this as sort of a wish list. If I had to improve the ride and all around handling of the car on the street with minimal mods, I'd probably choose the Strange 10-ways and our Pro Series lowering spring kit. 1979-2004 Ford Mustang V8 UPR Pro Series Lowering Springs by Eibach at UPR Products - Lifetime Warranty!


That said, AFM members receive a 10% discount at UPR Products, so if you want any of this, let me know and I'll send you the discount code.

Woah! That was a lot of typing. I hope it helps you choose which mods you're interested in. :bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah i just called them ladder bars cause that what they remind me of....and yeah ill deff get all new bushing when i upgrade the control arms...but i cant deside on what to get....
 

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Ive got full weld in sub frames, tubular upper and lower contorl arms in the rear, and new shocks and struts. I can tell a world of difference in handling. If it were me and I had it to do over again I would do subframes then full weld in upper and lower torque box reinforcements. Then knock out the contorl arms, bushings, springs and shocks at one time.

I baby the heck out of my car but my torque box welds are coming undone because of how stiff the contorl arms are. Other then that Im tickled pink with my suspension set up.


Ive just replaced the rubber disk at the rag joint but I have not driven the car since then so I dont know how well that will fix the slop problem but if it doesnt I will be getting a new steering shaft.
 
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